Separation Anxiety & Isolation Distress

Separation Anxiety

Most people typically love when  their dog wants to be right by their side.  After all, we wanted a companion.   But when your dog won't even let you out of sight to take a shower  ~  you may be dealing with something a little more than a desire to be with you.

If your dog panics when you leave the house and attempts to break out of his crate,  drools puddles of saliva, injures himself, or attempts to eat your dry wall ~ you are definitely dealing with an anxiety disorder with your dog.

Dogs with separation anxiety or isolation distress suffer from a very real physiological stress response.  They can't rest.  They pant heavily.  They pace.  They drool profusely.   They panic and need to get to you -- wherever you may have gone.      They believe that their eating the front door is what brought you back home.   So when it works once in their mind -- they do it again the next day.   When it doesn't work the same way, they intensify. 


Separation Anxiety is often misdiagnosed by the owner.   The term is applied generically to every whine or whimper your dog has when put his or her crate.  They may even think a crate escape artist has separation anxiety  -- but really he's absolutely fine without you home though maybe a little mischievous -- once he's out of the crate.  He just hasn't be properly acclimated to  his crate. 

• Some dogs will be fine with  you out of the room as long as you're in the house -- Separation Anxiety.  
• Other dogs can't bear to have you out of sight, even if you're home -- Isolation Distress.

It's a terrible way of being for your dog.  And for you.   You may be feeling like you can't risk leaving the house for fear of an emergency vet visit or needing a new front door.  It is highly emotional for everyone.

There are no quick fixes.  Generally speaking:   Your dog is not going to get better on his own.  He won't outgrow it on his own.  And he won't give up. 

You need to begin today helping your dog change his behavior.   Stop feeling sorry for your dog's past, let go of everything that happened yesterday  -- live in the present and change your behavior.

• Lead him gently but with confidence and consistency as a daily way of life. 

• Be consistent with clear expectations for your dog's behavior -- and your own.

• Work on serious obedience training -- teach your dog several new skills hat he can earn praise for and build his on confidence in ways he can please you.  Challenge his mind and stimulate him mentally each day.

• Exercise him daily with structured walks (heel, sit/stay around distractions, recall work, etc)to the point of being nice and tired (not exhausted) --- he will be more responsive to the work you're doing if he has burned off excess energy.   A leisure walk and an open run in your fenced yard is not structured exercise.

• Find a great game you can play with him -- Fetch, Tug (if appropriate), Scent Work, etc.

  
Crate Train Your Dog   Crate Training Guide

• Please be aware that if you start zip tying your dog in his crate that it's a) Dangerous in an emergency that you might not be able to get him out quickly and b) it might create even more stress and panic for the dog. 
• Use the crate while you are home -- not just when you leave.  We know you love Fido and want to cuddle with him as much as possible -- but at this time, until the SA is resolved, you may need a little tough love.  Teaching him that being in his crate can be restful while you're home.

Working with Isolation Distress:  You won't be able to leave the house, if you can't leave the room. 

•  Teach Place!   If your dog can learn to settle and relax on a mat with you in the room, he can also learn to settle and relax on a mat as leave the room for timed intervals.    It gives your dog something to do that he knows how to do -- and he will earn your praise for doing it.   That makes him happy.  Attempt to achieve an hour or two while you're home!
• Basic obedience will help in this area as well.    
• Add duration work -- long down stays (20-30 minutes) while you make dinner or watch TV/read.   Require him to down/stay in his crate with the door open.
• Giving him a chew toy, yummy frozen treat etc may help

 Working on Separation Anxiety:

It is highly recommended to not leave the dog alone for the first several days or even weeks as you work though training.   Each incident of panic your dog has, makes overcoming the anxiety that much more difficult.

I recommend you take a few days off work or at least over a weekend, and start practicing this behavior modification for several days in a row.  You'll make a lot more progress with repetition and consistency.   Many people consider doggie day care, pet sitters, or other solutions to prevent the doing being alone at home for extended periods of time until training progresses.

• Change your routine.  Create an unexpected response for your dog.

• When your dog is familiar and comfortable with being his crate with the door closed for a while with you home but out of the room -- begin to walk outside.

• Create incremental training goals.   Timed & Random intervals in the crate as you go outside, leave the house from 1 minute building to a couple of hours

Barking, Whining, Scratching and Gnawing must be corrected.

• The more they practice these behaviors, the more they embrace these behaviors.  Put a stop to these behaviors by drawing on other obedience skills.    Work on teaching a quite or calm command.   
• When necessary consider other training tools to interrupt the unwanted behaviors.

I know what you're thinking.   This could take weeks!  Yes, it could.   Your dog didn't develop this level of anxiety overnight and you won't solve it overnight.  It takes as long as it takes.   But with regular practice, keeping him guessing about the pattern, and you remaining consistent in your behavior -- you will see results. 

There are some holistic medications you can give you dog to help with anxiety.   These may include melatonin, Rescue Remedy, Calming Collars, Storm Stress, Lavender Essential Oils, Chamomile Tea, Valerian Root to name a few.   Discuss any supplements and dosages with your veterinarian,especially if your dog is on other medications.    Many vets may not agree with holistic solutions, so do your research.

For severe cases your vet may help you by prescribing something to help with behavior modification.   Medication alone is not your solution.  You still need to put in the training work.

We're here to help with you need us.   Call today.




Dana Brigman
The K9 Coach
Dog Training - Matthews, NC
980-339-8064
www.thek9-coach.com
info@thek9-coach.com

Follow us On

Facebook,  Youtube, Twitter, Pinterest , Instagram  & Google+

The K9 Coach is a Professional Certified Dog Trainer Serving Charlotte, NC, Matthews, NC and surrounding areas.

 

My mission is a better life for dogs as members of a forever family.

My goal is create training solutions for the home owner, to rehabilitate dogs from shelters and rescues, and to prevent dogs from dying alone as strays or owner surrenders in shelters due to unnecessary aggression or behavioral issues.

Begin all training with a consultation with a professional trainer to be sure you're solving the right problem. Misdiagnosis can make the matters worse. Be sure that there are no medical issues at play and that your dog is not in pain, as pain can be a contributor to a new display of aggression. If you have any fear or uncertainty -- do not attempt the techniques without professional supervision.

Food or Praise for Rewards?

Food or Praise for Rewards?

The short answer is both!  Each has a purpose.   
Get a Treat Pouch and Use it! 

Most dogs will do just about anything for food... especially if they are hungry.    Many dogs will start performing all sorts of behaviors to see if it will be the one that makes you release that yummy treat.   A dog's sense of smell is extremely powerful.  So something that smells yummy will interest them.  Be aware yummy often stinks to us.

To make sure they are hungry when it's time to learn something new, skip the meal prior to the training session.    It won't hurt them -- physically or emotionally.   In fact, it reinforces you control resources for a dominant dog, and helps every dog get focused on learning when you do offer the
food.



Praise -- it's something we will always have with us.   Use it ~ a lot!   If you are using food as a reward, use your praise also.  The dog will create an association of the food reward with your praise and vice versa.

Praise is also something they can learn comes from everyone!  The stranger that finds him if he escapes your yard, your vet, groomer, retail clerk, friends or family may not have the "special" treats your dog loves and will only perform his commands for.

Plan ahead for the life of you dog and know that praise is universal.

Always at least verbally acknowledge the things your dog well!   Ideally, you will want to use the same words so that he learns what they mean, an enthusiastic tone of voice, and physical touch when appropriate.   Consider words like  "yes!", "That's Better", "Good boy".    This reinforces the behaviors you want him to give you and encourages them to keep at it.

When you are training a new skill or trying to counter-condition a behavioral issue, but sure you praise lavishly for a job well-done!  If you have had to give several verbal non-reward markers (No, aaak aaak, etc) to get him to delivery the skill -- withhold your big praise and your treats, and give just the verbal "good boy".  

Some excitable dogs may find that your enthusiasm or your physical touch creates so much excitement that they break their command.  Tone it down if needed.  Don't be the reason your dog breaks his command.      If you do have one a dog like this -- save your best praise for the end of a training segment and then bring on enthusiasm and celebrate with your dog for a great lesson.

As your dog progresses in his learning -- save big praise and/or treats only for the times he delivers the command on the first time he's told.   If you continue to reward after mistakes, he'll keep making them.  


What food to use?
"But my dog is not food motivated".   It's true -- not all dogs are food extremely  motivated, but most people give up too soon on finding out what food will work for your dog.  They will often be food motivated if the treat is valuable enough.  A dog's sense of smell is typically quite acute and will entice them check out what we're offering and if they are hungry.


Explore different food choices ~ hotdogs, boiled chicken, dried liver, smelly cheese, etc.   The stinkier the better.  Figure out what works for your dog.  Something usually will.

For young puppies, your training reward might be as simple as a Cheerio.

For all dogs you can use their meal-time as a reinforcement of Sit/Stay or Down/Stay to earn their food bowl.  They have to hold the command until you release them to eat.

No Really -- He's At All Not Food Motivated:
If food doesn't work -- you need to try toys.  But remember tossing a toy generally gets them up and moving and might not be the reward you want during obedience work or in a group class setting.    It's great for teaching, reward for nose work, or tricks -- but praise may be your best option until you are ready to release the dog from a command.  



Pudgy Pooch?
Remember, we said skipping a meal is not going to hurt them.  So if you are using lots of food reward during training, be sure to cut down calories from their normal meal by skipping or at least giving a smaller portion.

You can also use their kibble for basic training reward, especially after they have learned a new skill.  Alternatively, as you advance your skills, you can cut up some chicken, hotdog or cheese, add some kibble to the treat pouch with that smelly treat and alternate the two rewards.  The kibble will be enhanced by the smell of the other treat reward.  

Dana Brigman

The K9 Coach

Dog Training - Matthews, NC

980-339-8064

www.thek9-coach.com

info@thek9-coach.com

Follow us On

Facebook,  Youtube, Twitter, Pinterest , Instagram  & Google+

Begin all training with a consultation with a professional trainer to be sure you're solving the right problem. Misdiagnosis can make the matters worse. Be sure that there are no medical issues at play and that your dog is not in pain, as pain can be a contributor to a new display of aggression. If you have any fear or uncertainty -- do not attempt the techniques without professional supervision.

Help! My Dog Is Digging Up My Yard

I'm afraid in this training tip, my rescuer side might come out a little bit more than usual. 

Dogs are not meant to be outside unsupervised.   If you are out there playing with them, teaching them new skills or otherwise just relaxing, there typically will be no digging.  In all my years, I have never had a dog with a digging problem.   So there must be something to notion of play, supervision and training.

Digging is often a sign of boredom.   Dogs that are under-exercised or not getting enough mental stimulation and human interaction will find ways to occupy themselves.   On hot summer days, when left outside alone, they want to find a cool spot to lay so they churn up some dirt.

So, supervise and interrupt/correct the behavior.   Better yet, play with your dog in some structured games that incorporate impulse control, obedience skills, or even tricks.   Go for a walk!  Engage your dog!  Include him in your life.  

We really only have ourselves to blame if a dog is digging. 

Now that I have that off my chest,  I have reviewed a number of alternative solutions to digging that you might want to consider -- IF and ONLY IF supervision, play and training are not options for your dog.

Some folks have suggested putting a chicken wire mesh under the soil & mulch to make it unpleasant for your dog to dig.   I'd be super cautious about this as if that wire is damaged, it could easily lead to a severe injury for your dog, that is now filled with dirt, bacteria, etc.   I'd just say no to this option.


Take a look at what The Whole Dog Journal has to say about giving your dog a specific place to dig:

http://www.whole-dog-journal.com/issues/11_8/features/Destructive-Digging-Behavior-Solutions_16052-1.html





Dana Brigman
The K9 Coach
Dog Training - Matthews, NC
980-339-8064
www.thek9-coach.com
info@thek9-coach.com

Follow us On

Facebook,  Youtube, Twitter, Pinterest , Instagram  & Google+

The K9 Coach is a Professional Certified Dog Trainer Serving Charlotte, NC, Matthews, NC and surrounding areas.

My mission is a better life for dogs as members of a forever family.

My goal is create training solutions for the home owner, to rehabilitate dogs from shelters and rescues, and to prevent dogs from dying alone as strays or owner surrenders in shelters due to unnecessary aggression or behavioral issues.

Begin all training with a consultation with a professional trainer to be sure you're solving the right problem. Misdiagnosis can make the matters worse. Be sure that there are no medical issues at play and that your dog is not in pain, as pain can be a contributor to a new display of aggression. If you have any fear or uncertainty -- do not attempt the techniques without professional supervision.