Train Your Dog Like You Train an Athlete. Practice Often.

Train Your Dog Like You Train an Athlete.   Practice Often.  Before The Big Game.

Use your words. 
Use your hand signals. 
Use your training.

We want you to have a very clear communication method with your dog. It is a consistent word choice. Consistent hand signal / body language. And very clear expectations of what to do when "x" happens.

We teach you how to achieve that.

For dogs that have a history of fear aggression, resource guarding, or other behavioral issues -- this is critical. You must you practice it many times when distractions are low. Then, when the stakes are high, you are simply asking something of him he has done many times before and knows how to be successful.


Do what you're both trained to do and give him a command for "off". It takes time to create of course. It truly is training and practice much like an athlete. Practice often and just because even when you are no long having problems. 
 
When you do anything other than what you have trained for, it may be confusing to your dog. Confusion can lead to frustration which can lead to him communicating with you by growling, snapping, or even biting in extreme moments.

This can be applied to many scenarios that will help prevent your dog from "guarding". Teach what to do and how to be successful - -then use that teaching when the stakes are high and don't panic.

Example: your dog guards the couch. You've taught him not to be on the couch. A few weeks later you find him up on the couch. Your first reaction cannot be to physically remove him by reaching for his collar or shooing him off by poking his butt or sitting on him.

This can be the same for him having a kids toy he shouldn't have -- don't pry it out of his mouth, use the command you taught for drop it.

YOU have to be consistent to and can't expect him to perform well if you change the expectation and start physically manipulating him to move or give up some object.

******************

Start training your dog for basic skills (whether he has issues or not) as soon as you bring him home!
Basic life skills include Sit/Stay, Come When Called, Drop It, Leave It and Watch me. 

If you have not yet trained him and see a new guarding behavior redirect him to some other item of value (treat, toy, etc) -- in the heat of the moment just get him out of the aggression mindset -- we can begin training later, but we can't undo snapping and biting. 



(And that my friends is an early bite-prevention tip)

Dana Brigman
The K9 Coach
Dog Training - Matthews, NC
980-339-8064
www.thek9-coach.com
info@thek9-coach.com

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Teaching Your Dog To Sit and Stay

Teaching  Your Dog To Sit and Stay

I'm letting you guys in on a little secret.   A training guide I normally reserve for clients.     But since it's National Train Your Dog Month -- I'm sharing it with you.  



Command:   Sit!
Have him on leash so that he can't run away from you under distractions.
Hand Signal:  Cup your hand with back of hand facing the dog, approximately waist height  (Movement to this position should be crisp and with purpose!)
Verbal Non-Reward Marker:    "No" or "Aaaaak"-type sound and repeat "Sit"  (tone does not need to be loud or intimidating).  Always correct if he does not perform the command when you issue it, or if he breaks the command before you issue a new command or a release.   Hold him accountable. 
Praise:   always praise your dog for doing the right skill!  
Leash: Use your leash, even in the house and certainly as you progress to public distractions.

Initial Teaching (for a dog that does not already know the command)     

Option 1: 

•  Hold a Treat in front of your dog's nose in your cupped hand, raise treat up and back between dogs ears, slightly above his head.  Say "SIT!"    He should rock his bottom back into a sit position.  As soon as his bottom hit the ground, give the treat and say Okay!!!    
• Okay is his cue that it's okay to end the command.   Over the next several days make him wait a few seconds (building to minutes) before you treat and release.   Always praise for a job well done!   

Option 2:  for the slightly more  challenging learner.

• In additional to the steps in Option 1 -- Apply a gentle pressure with 2 fingers of your left hand @ base of tail.   The right hand is applying a very light tension on leash to lift up.   (This assumes you are facing forward with dog attempting to Sit! on your left)   
• NEVER apply direct pressure to the spine or back.
• Use this only to get him started moving in the posture.   And in a day or two eliminate this touch altogether.  

Acknowledge:   After he sits, verbally say Good Sit! Good Boy, That's It -- something that tells him he's done it right!   
Then ONLY when you are ready Release with Okay! to praise and reward. 



What might go wrong:

• If he's popping out of the sit to early, work on your timing.     Attempt to release him before he breaks so that you are creating success.  But still attempt to lengthen the stay over the next week or so.   
• If he's popping up as you reach down with the treat -- get low!   Sit on the floor to start and work your way to taller positions.   If as you bend he stands up -- you return to a stand tall position and give the verbal non-reward marker.    Be uber sure not to treat him if he's not in the sit position.
• As you progress -- do not hold the treat in your hand, but rather an easily accessible treat pouch.  So that he learns to work without the treat present
• And then start to randomize when the treat reward shows up -- but never miss the praise when you release.
  

Creating a good Sit/Stay:  Once your dog is sitting reliably on the first command, begin to use a little foot work to move away from the dog.   Start with 1/2 steps (only 1 foot moves) or single steps to start and then release.   Create success!  Build up to getting to the full extension of your leash, making the full circle around your dog, and on increasing the duration he must hold this command.   

We do not give a STAY command typically.   It is implied in the command itself.   And often less confusing to the dog.  Remember the less words we use the better!  If he's sitting, he should just sit until released.  

Class Goal #1:  Your goal for class is holding an uninterrupted sit/stay 5 minutes (while other dogs are moving nearby)

Class Goal #2:  master the auto sit.   From a heeling position, when you stop walking your dog should sit automatically without cue from you!

Using in every day life:
As soon as your dog knows Sit with the built in Stay, begin to have your dog wait

• patiently for his meals or treats
• to put on his leash
• for doors to open and be invited through them (house and car), practice commands when the doorbell rings, when you go for a walk
• at Pet Retailers or the Vet's office
  
• on street corners during a walk
• when greeting friends, etc. 
  
• to exit his crate
• when you need him to focus on you for any reason.  It becomes such a fundamental skill it can give him familiar skills to draw on when he's anxious or stressed.
  

Why Auto sit Can Be Helpful

• Greeting a neighbor or stranger on the street and stop to chat for a moment. 
• You stop at the mailbox or answer a phone call
• You're pushing a baby stroller and walking your dog and need to stop to attend the baby
• What if you fall down and injure yourself and aren't able to hold the leash?

Make this your most useful go-to command.

 More on Sit -- It's Not a Trick

Here's Your Dog Training Challenge for the Month of January 2014  --

Practice Training Sit/Stay 

Win A Leather Slip Lead

Upload a video of you and your dog to our Facebook page walking nicely, coming to a complete stop with him sitting at your side without a verbal cue or hand signal.   The stopping alone should be enough to get him to sit.
Then you walk away from him at least 6 feet away (typical leash distance) and circle behind him (no eye contact). Hold it for 1.5 minutes and then release and praise!     Entry must be posted by 6pm ET January 31, 2014.
We will randomly select a winner from the qualified video entries!

Here is your first set of instructions to teach Sit!
With this and the tips we give all month long you're doing to master this and more!

This Leash Can Be Yours!   Enter the Video Contest!

 

Dana Brigman

The K9 Coach

Dog Training - Matthews, NC

980-339-8064

www.thek9-coach.com

info@thek9-coach.com

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Help! My Dog Is Jumping The Fence

My first question to you is -- why is the dog jumping the fence?   What's on the other side of the fence that is so much more exciting than you?   Is he left outside unsupervised? 

Typical reasons dogs jump the fence is because of raging hormones, boredom, and lack of supervision.     At the most basic of solutions -- get your dog spayed/neutered, go outside and play or train them to burn of physical energy, and don't leave them unsupervised.

You can create perimeter boundaries by working on a very reliable recall, and working with your dog on leash for several weeks to teach them that every time they approach the fence, they will be called to Come to you for a positive reward.    Remember in Come! (especially if something is exciting on the other side of the fence) you have to be the best thing ever for your dog to want to engage with you and to show-up when you call them.   Have something yummy as a reward for coming when called for the next few weeks.

If they do escape, don't punish them when you go get them, otherwise they will be even more reluctant to come to you the next time.  

Need help teaching a reliable off-leash recall?   Call us for an appointment or check out one of our training classes.   

Fences should not be considered a fail-safe protection for your dog. They can give you peace of mind to let them go outside and play and do their business.   But it's my opinion, humble as it may be, that dogs should not be left outside in a fenced area when the owner is not home and not available for frequent supervision.   

My own little weenie dog is small enough to fit through the rails of my mother's fence so we had to take extra precautions when visiting.   And as you can see in the picture above -- my foster dog even tried to squeeze through.   Be sure when you visit friends and family you check the status of their fence too!

Fence safety- check the perimeter often for holes that may have developed in the wire mesh, spaces/gaps that small dogs can crawl under, securely latching gates, and for objects or terrain in your yard that gives your dog a place tall enough to allow him to jump over.   Also, be sure to check your fence after big storms to ensure that limbs have not fallen and damaged the fencing allowing for an escape route.  

Don't even get me started about invisible fencing ... that's a topic for another day. 

The K9 Coach

Dana Brigman, CDT, IACP, APDT

980-339-8064
Email:  info@thek9-coach.com

Website:  www.thek9-coach.com

Facebook:  www.facebook.com/thek9coachcharlotte
Pinterest:  www.pinterest.com/thek9coach
Youtube:  www.youtube.com/thek9coachcharlotte

The K9 Coach is a Professional Certified Dog Trainer Serving Charlotte, NC, Matthews, NC and surrounding areas.

Ask us about a photo shoot with your dog !   Weenie Dog Photography   
All K9 Coach clients are eligible for a discount! 

 

My mission is a better life for dogs as members of a forever family.

My goal is create training solutions for the home owner, to rehabilitate dogs from shelters and rescues, and to prevent dogs from dying alone as strays or owner surrenders in shelters due to unnecessary aggression or behavioral issues.

Begin all training with a consultation with a professional trainer to be sure you're solving the right problem. Misdiagnosis can make the matters worse. Be sure that there are no medical issues at play and that your dog is not in pain, as pain can be a contributor to a new display of aggression. If you have any fear or uncertainty -- do not attempt the techniques without professional supervision.

Games: Teaching Fetch

It's fun to play games with your dog.  Some dogs need a job to do or to have an outlet for their energy and athleticism.  Kids often want to play with the dog, but aren't necessarily very skilled at holding them accountable to obedience work.

So what better game than Fetch? 

Teaching Fetch:   Fetch will teach your  to run after a your dog to retreive an object  that you have thrown (they see where it goes) and bring it back to you.   

It's easy to get started -- but remember you must have a high level of enthusiasm yourself for playing.   Your don't isn't going to know right away what the point of the game is.   And if you are not having fun and get him motivated he will just look at the ball, look at you, and go find something else more fun to do.  Have fun with your dog.... sometimes you have to teach them how.

 One easy way to get started:

• Cut a small in an old tennis ball and drop a smelly treat inside.  (Parents should do this for the kids)
• Toss the ball playfully away from you (a very short distance) and encourage her to pick it up and bring back to you.  (Using a leash or working in a room without an escape route might be necessary to keep your dog interested for a few minutes).
• Motivate with your voice, patting your legs, etc to get her to return to you.   Praise her from returning with the ball.  Play with excitment!
• When returns with the ball, take* the ball from her and squeeze the ball to release the treat.
• Repeat several times – the dog will start to return the ball to you to get the treat
• Begin to add a cue word as you toss the ball -- “go get it”, “fetch”, “retrieve” – whatever you want your cue word to be, just use the same word all the time. 
• Begin to add a cue word as you take the ball or as she drops it –  “give”, “drop it*”  -- whatever you want your cue word to be, just use the same word all the time. 
• Once your dog really masters the concept of the game, you can use a ball without the treat in it and reward the treat from your pocket
• Then you can use other objects to send her to retrieve -- like a Frisbee or other toy.

• Advancing skills -- Once the game is understood -- increase the challenge.   Ask her to  sit  (or down) and wait to be released to go retrieve the item – meaning she has to hear the cue word before she runs after it.  

*We will provide instructions for Drop It and other games soon.

The K9 Coach

Dana Brigman, CDT, IACP, APDT

980-339-8064
Email:  info@thek9-coach.com

Website:  www.thek9-coach.com

Facebook:  www.facebook.com/thek9coachcharlotte
Pinterest:  www.pinterest.com/thek9coach
Youtube:  www.youtube.com/thek9coachcharlotte

The K9 Coach is a Professional Certified Dog Trainer Serving Charlotte, NC, Matthews, NC and surrounding areas.

 

My mission is a better life for dogs as members of a forever family.

My goal is create training solutions for the home owner, to rehabilitate dogs from shelters and rescues, and to prevent dogs from dying alone as strays or owner surrenders in shelters due to unnecessary aggression or behavioral issues.

Begin all training with a consultation with a professional trainer to be sure you're solving the right problem. Misdiagnosis can make the matters worse. Be sure that there are no medical issues at play and that your dog is not in pain, as pain can be a contributor to a new display of aggression. If you have any fear or uncertainty -- do not attempt the techniques without professional supervision.

Separation Anxiety & Isolation Distress

Separation Anxiety

Most people typically love when  their dog wants to be right by their side.  After all, we wanted a companion.   But when your dog won't even let you out of sight to take a shower  ~  you may be dealing with something a little more than a desire to be with you.

If your dog panics when you leave the house and attempts to break out of his crate,  drools puddles of saliva, injures himself, or attempts to eat your dry wall ~ you are definitely dealing with an anxiety disorder with your dog.

Dogs with separation anxiety or isolation distress suffer from a very real physiological stress response.  They can't rest.  They pant heavily.  They pace.  They drool profusely.   They panic and need to get to you -- wherever you may have gone.      They believe that their eating the front door is what brought you back home.   So when it works once in their mind -- they do it again the next day.   When it doesn't work the same way, they intensify. 


Separation Anxiety is often misdiagnosed by the owner.   The term is applied generically to every whine or whimper your dog has when put his or her crate.  They may even think a crate escape artist has separation anxiety  -- but really he's absolutely fine without you home though maybe a little mischievous -- once he's out of the crate.  He just hasn't be properly acclimated to  his crate. 

• Some dogs will be fine with  you out of the room as long as you're in the house -- Separation Anxiety.  
• Other dogs can't bear to have you out of sight, even if you're home -- Isolation Distress.

It's a terrible way of being for your dog.  And for you.   You may be feeling like you can't risk leaving the house for fear of an emergency vet visit or needing a new front door.  It is highly emotional for everyone.

There are no quick fixes.  Generally speaking:   Your dog is not going to get better on his own.  He won't outgrow it on his own.  And he won't give up. 

You need to begin today helping your dog change his behavior.   Stop feeling sorry for your dog's past, let go of everything that happened yesterday  -- live in the present and change your behavior.

• Lead him gently but with confidence and consistency as a daily way of life. 

• Be consistent with clear expectations for your dog's behavior -- and your own.

• Work on serious obedience training -- teach your dog several new skills hat he can earn praise for and build his on confidence in ways he can please you.  Challenge his mind and stimulate him mentally each day.

• Exercise him daily with structured walks (heel, sit/stay around distractions, recall work, etc)to the point of being nice and tired (not exhausted) --- he will be more responsive to the work you're doing if he has burned off excess energy.   A leisure walk and an open run in your fenced yard is not structured exercise.

• Find a great game you can play with him -- Fetch, Tug (if appropriate), Scent Work, etc.

  
Crate Train Your Dog   Crate Training Guide

• Please be aware that if you start zip tying your dog in his crate that it's a) Dangerous in an emergency that you might not be able to get him out quickly and b) it might create even more stress and panic for the dog. 
• Use the crate while you are home -- not just when you leave.  We know you love Fido and want to cuddle with him as much as possible -- but at this time, until the SA is resolved, you may need a little tough love.  Teaching him that being in his crate can be restful while you're home.

Working with Isolation Distress:  You won't be able to leave the house, if you can't leave the room. 

•  Teach Place!   If your dog can learn to settle and relax on a mat with you in the room, he can also learn to settle and relax on a mat as leave the room for timed intervals.    It gives your dog something to do that he knows how to do -- and he will earn your praise for doing it.   That makes him happy.  Attempt to achieve an hour or two while you're home!
• Basic obedience will help in this area as well.    
• Add duration work -- long down stays (20-30 minutes) while you make dinner or watch TV/read.   Require him to down/stay in his crate with the door open.
• Giving him a chew toy, yummy frozen treat etc may help

 Working on Separation Anxiety:

It is highly recommended to not leave the dog alone for the first several days or even weeks as you work though training.   Each incident of panic your dog has, makes overcoming the anxiety that much more difficult.

I recommend you take a few days off work or at least over a weekend, and start practicing this behavior modification for several days in a row.  You'll make a lot more progress with repetition and consistency.   Many people consider doggie day care, pet sitters, or other solutions to prevent the doing being alone at home for extended periods of time until training progresses.

• Change your routine.  Create an unexpected response for your dog.

• When your dog is familiar and comfortable with being his crate with the door closed for a while with you home but out of the room -- begin to walk outside.

• Create incremental training goals.   Timed & Random intervals in the crate as you go outside, leave the house from 1 minute building to a couple of hours

Barking, Whining, Scratching and Gnawing must be corrected.

• The more they practice these behaviors, the more they embrace these behaviors.  Put a stop to these behaviors by drawing on other obedience skills.    Work on teaching a quite or calm command.   
• When necessary consider other training tools to interrupt the unwanted behaviors.

I know what you're thinking.   This could take weeks!  Yes, it could.   Your dog didn't develop this level of anxiety overnight and you won't solve it overnight.  It takes as long as it takes.   But with regular practice, keeping him guessing about the pattern, and you remaining consistent in your behavior -- you will see results. 

There are some holistic medications you can give you dog to help with anxiety.   These may include melatonin, Rescue Remedy, Calming Collars, Storm Stress, Lavender Essential Oils, Chamomile Tea, Valerian Root to name a few.   Discuss any supplements and dosages with your veterinarian,especially if your dog is on other medications.    Many vets may not agree with holistic solutions, so do your research.

For severe cases your vet may help you by prescribing something to help with behavior modification.   Medication alone is not your solution.  You still need to put in the training work.

We're here to help with you need us.   Call today.




Dana Brigman
The K9 Coach
Dog Training - Matthews, NC
980-339-8064
www.thek9-coach.com
info@thek9-coach.com

Follow us On

Facebook,  Youtube, Twitter, Pinterest , Instagram  & Google+

The K9 Coach is a Professional Certified Dog Trainer Serving Charlotte, NC, Matthews, NC and surrounding areas.

 

My mission is a better life for dogs as members of a forever family.

My goal is create training solutions for the home owner, to rehabilitate dogs from shelters and rescues, and to prevent dogs from dying alone as strays or owner surrenders in shelters due to unnecessary aggression or behavioral issues.

Begin all training with a consultation with a professional trainer to be sure you're solving the right problem. Misdiagnosis can make the matters worse. Be sure that there are no medical issues at play and that your dog is not in pain, as pain can be a contributor to a new display of aggression. If you have any fear or uncertainty -- do not attempt the techniques without professional supervision.

Food or Praise for Rewards?

Food or Praise for Rewards?

The short answer is both!  Each has a purpose.   
Get a Treat Pouch and Use it! 

Most dogs will do just about anything for food... especially if they are hungry.    Many dogs will start performing all sorts of behaviors to see if it will be the one that makes you release that yummy treat.   A dog's sense of smell is extremely powerful.  So something that smells yummy will interest them.  Be aware yummy often stinks to us.

To make sure they are hungry when it's time to learn something new, skip the meal prior to the training session.    It won't hurt them -- physically or emotionally.   In fact, it reinforces you control resources for a dominant dog, and helps every dog get focused on learning when you do offer the
food.



Praise -- it's something we will always have with us.   Use it ~ a lot!   If you are using food as a reward, use your praise also.  The dog will create an association of the food reward with your praise and vice versa.

Praise is also something they can learn comes from everyone!  The stranger that finds him if he escapes your yard, your vet, groomer, retail clerk, friends or family may not have the "special" treats your dog loves and will only perform his commands for.

Plan ahead for the life of you dog and know that praise is universal.

Always at least verbally acknowledge the things your dog well!   Ideally, you will want to use the same words so that he learns what they mean, an enthusiastic tone of voice, and physical touch when appropriate.   Consider words like  "yes!", "That's Better", "Good boy".    This reinforces the behaviors you want him to give you and encourages them to keep at it.

When you are training a new skill or trying to counter-condition a behavioral issue, but sure you praise lavishly for a job well-done!  If you have had to give several verbal non-reward markers (No, aaak aaak, etc) to get him to delivery the skill -- withhold your big praise and your treats, and give just the verbal "good boy".  

Some excitable dogs may find that your enthusiasm or your physical touch creates so much excitement that they break their command.  Tone it down if needed.  Don't be the reason your dog breaks his command.      If you do have one a dog like this -- save your best praise for the end of a training segment and then bring on enthusiasm and celebrate with your dog for a great lesson.

As your dog progresses in his learning -- save big praise and/or treats only for the times he delivers the command on the first time he's told.   If you continue to reward after mistakes, he'll keep making them.  


What food to use?
"But my dog is not food motivated".   It's true -- not all dogs are food extremely  motivated, but most people give up too soon on finding out what food will work for your dog.  They will often be food motivated if the treat is valuable enough.  A dog's sense of smell is typically quite acute and will entice them check out what we're offering and if they are hungry.


Explore different food choices ~ hotdogs, boiled chicken, dried liver, smelly cheese, etc.   The stinkier the better.  Figure out what works for your dog.  Something usually will.

For young puppies, your training reward might be as simple as a Cheerio.

For all dogs you can use their meal-time as a reinforcement of Sit/Stay or Down/Stay to earn their food bowl.  They have to hold the command until you release them to eat.

No Really -- He's At All Not Food Motivated:
If food doesn't work -- you need to try toys.  But remember tossing a toy generally gets them up and moving and might not be the reward you want during obedience work or in a group class setting.    It's great for teaching, reward for nose work, or tricks -- but praise may be your best option until you are ready to release the dog from a command.  



Pudgy Pooch?
Remember, we said skipping a meal is not going to hurt them.  So if you are using lots of food reward during training, be sure to cut down calories from their normal meal by skipping or at least giving a smaller portion.

You can also use their kibble for basic training reward, especially after they have learned a new skill.  Alternatively, as you advance your skills, you can cut up some chicken, hotdog or cheese, add some kibble to the treat pouch with that smelly treat and alternate the two rewards.  The kibble will be enhanced by the smell of the other treat reward.  

Dana Brigman

The K9 Coach

Dog Training - Matthews, NC

980-339-8064

www.thek9-coach.com

info@thek9-coach.com

Follow us On

Facebook,  Youtube, Twitter, Pinterest , Instagram  & Google+

Begin all training with a consultation with a professional trainer to be sure you're solving the right problem. Misdiagnosis can make the matters worse. Be sure that there are no medical issues at play and that your dog is not in pain, as pain can be a contributor to a new display of aggression. If you have any fear or uncertainty -- do not attempt the techniques without professional supervision.

Help! My Dog Is Digging Up My Yard

I'm afraid in this training tip, my rescuer side might come out a little bit more than usual. 

Dogs are not meant to be outside unsupervised.   If you are out there playing with them, teaching them new skills or otherwise just relaxing, there typically will be no digging.  In all my years, I have never had a dog with a digging problem.   So there must be something to notion of play, supervision and training.

Digging is often a sign of boredom.   Dogs that are under-exercised or not getting enough mental stimulation and human interaction will find ways to occupy themselves.   On hot summer days, when left outside alone, they want to find a cool spot to lay so they churn up some dirt.

So, supervise and interrupt/correct the behavior.   Better yet, play with your dog in some structured games that incorporate impulse control, obedience skills, or even tricks.   Go for a walk!  Engage your dog!  Include him in your life.  

We really only have ourselves to blame if a dog is digging. 

Now that I have that off my chest,  I have reviewed a number of alternative solutions to digging that you might want to consider -- IF and ONLY IF supervision, play and training are not options for your dog.

Some folks have suggested putting a chicken wire mesh under the soil & mulch to make it unpleasant for your dog to dig.   I'd be super cautious about this as if that wire is damaged, it could easily lead to a severe injury for your dog, that is now filled with dirt, bacteria, etc.   I'd just say no to this option.


Take a look at what The Whole Dog Journal has to say about giving your dog a specific place to dig:

http://www.whole-dog-journal.com/issues/11_8/features/Destructive-Digging-Behavior-Solutions_16052-1.html





Dana Brigman
The K9 Coach
Dog Training - Matthews, NC
980-339-8064
www.thek9-coach.com
info@thek9-coach.com

Follow us On

Facebook,  Youtube, Twitter, Pinterest , Instagram  & Google+

The K9 Coach is a Professional Certified Dog Trainer Serving Charlotte, NC, Matthews, NC and surrounding areas.

My mission is a better life for dogs as members of a forever family.

My goal is create training solutions for the home owner, to rehabilitate dogs from shelters and rescues, and to prevent dogs from dying alone as strays or owner surrenders in shelters due to unnecessary aggression or behavioral issues.

Begin all training with a consultation with a professional trainer to be sure you're solving the right problem. Misdiagnosis can make the matters worse. Be sure that there are no medical issues at play and that your dog is not in pain, as pain can be a contributor to a new display of aggression. If you have any fear or uncertainty -- do not attempt the techniques without professional supervision.

Reactivity to Dogs or People

 Solving reactivity to people or dogs -- a general guide.

When a dog demonstrates reactivity to people or other dogs, it's most likely rooted in fear.   Since they can't tell us they are afraid, they use the only tactic they know how to get the scary thing to go away -- Aggression.   

Many dogs don't have the social skills to deal with normal every day situations of greeting.   Owner's get frustrated. Friends or neighbors become fearful and sometimes disrespectful. If not treated this behavior escalates. It does not get better on its own. And in some cases the dog is out on the street, dumped in a shelter, or put down.

It must be hard for the dog to be in this state of mind because people and other dogs are everywhere.   So the stress builds and then explodes.  We're lucky if the dog warns us with a raise of the lip or a low growl.   If we're adept at reading our dog, we can discover other signals prior to the showing of teeth and the growling.   If we miss all those signals, the dog is likely to lunge, snap or bite.

There are options to turn make improvements in behavior.  You may never solve it completely, but you can make it better or learn to manage it.  It's important that you start training immediately upon identifying any warning signs or displays of aggression.   These issues do not resolve themselves.  In fact, they typically escalate. 

  

Assume a stronger leadership role in your home and begin implementing the following:  

• No permission to be on the furniture.    
• Teach your dog to "Place" on her bed or in her crate.   Build up to her being able to stay in a place for  30 minutes while you watch TV or make dinner.  
• Begin making her sit and wait for her food.  Start with a brief wait, and then work up to a couple of minutes.  
• Require your dog to sit calmly before going in or out of doorways.   Leaders first. 
• Do 10-15 minutes of basic obedience each day.  Giving praise for a job well done, and holding them accountable to not performing the task on command. 
• Require her to stay in command until you either release her with a verbal OK! Or you issue a new command.
• Spend some time each day in play.   Allow her to know that you’re also a good source of fun.  If your dog escalates with rough play or tug games, throw the ball.   Don't encourage the bad behavior.
  

  • If your dog is guarding toys -- he may not be allowed to have toys for a while, until behavior is improved.   
• Offer affection on your terms -- if the dog seeks it out, ignore them.  You call them to you or go to them to give praise and affection. 
• Offer treats on your terms -- but only when they have learned to sit patiently with manners.

Now about the reactivity.    It’s easy to want to avoid taking her out, but the truth is to address the issue you actually do have to take her out to work on this problem.  After you have spent about a week tuning up the leadership methods described above -- head out in public.  This week at home with obedience and leadership work can also help your dog

Start in small intervals and build up.   You may find that you drive to PetSmart or the park but don’t actually go in the first few times.  You may just stand on the sidewalk watching people/dogs go by.

• You will need to determine her distance threshold and stay below that to start.   You want to keep her calm, focused and prevent the reaction.   The more positive experiences you have the better.
• You will also want to observe to see if you can find common themes in your dogs triggers?   Is it men only?   Men with hats/hoodies or sunglasses?  Children?  Children who are running & squealing?   Is it only when you're sitting down?  Small Dogs?  Big Dogs?   Dogs at play?  Dogs straining on the end of the leash?    It may be everything  -- but it may be much more specific.   Try to identify exactly what it is, then focus on those setups.
• As people/dogs approach, start requiring her to be in Sit Command  and focused on you.   Give a very high value treat rewards (a treat that she ONLY gets when doing these exercises so it’s special) and calm verbal praise for her staying calm and focused on you.   The lesson here is less about obedience, and more about learning to stay calm around potential threats, though you need obedience foundation.
• No food is to be given in response to a reaction.  It's only for staying calm.  
•  If she does begin to give indication of reaction draw her away with a verbal NO!, giving her distance from the threat.  Cross the street if you have too.  Then put her to work in Sit, Down, Heel, etc.  Always praise her obedience work when she does commands as expected.   When she’s calmer, praise her, and try to reduce the distance again. 
• If she has an aggressive reaction (lunging  & snapping) --- you should give her a very effective leash-based correction.  She should know she’s made a mistake.  Do NOT Offer any praise or comfort following this correction.
• You need to stay calm and disciplined in your response to your dog.   If you become fearful, head straight for your car and end the training.    Call a professional if you need help with trying again, but this training must be done.
• If your dog is stronger than you are, you may wish to consider a prong collar.   The correction then is just a pop & release straight up on her prong collar with a verbal NO, and draw her way, and put her to work in obedience commands.   Remember no food reward for obedience work in this case.  
•  Don’t push to fast.  If the threshold is 20ft today, don’'t try to go to 10  feet tomorrow.  Work a day or two at the greater distance, and then move in 2-3 feet a few days later.  Take your time and go slow.  It's better to practice a success than to create a reaction.

• Once you’re able be closer to people  (or other dogs)
• Ask them to just toss great treats in her general direction and pass by without stopping.    Be sure they are not talking to her or making eye contact.
• Once that’s working well for a few days, consider asking them to give her a treat directly (only you can judge her comfort level).   
• You may  never get here.   Meaning, it just may be better for people not to get in close proximity, but you do want to reach the point where they can stand in a conversational space with you and ignoring her and she can remain calm
• People should come in sideways, hold their hand out with the high value treat, and then walk away quietly  -- again no touching or eye contact with her
• She should be sitting
• You should offer praise and control the leash and her head – if anyone is uncomfortable, don'’t do it.
• If at anytime during any phase of the training exercise you feel safety is at risk, use a muzzle for your dog.   Do not put other people or dogs as risk.   It's not worth it.       
• And if you are at all unsure about any techniques, behavior or results  -- call a professional trainer to assist.

  

Practice as often as you can, but it is good experience to work around people in the who understand the challenge, who will follow instructions,  and can help with scenarios and where appropriate have dogs suitable to the practice sessions.  

Review other teaching aids on our FB page.

This can feel overwhelming.   It's not as complicated at is seems and the methods to teach these techniques can be done in just a few lessons with The K9 Coach.    Call us today.   We can help!

Dana Brigman

The K9 Coach

Dog Training - Matthews, NC

980-339-8064

www.thek9-coach.com

info@thek9-coach.com

Follow us On

Facebook,  Youtube, Twitter, Pinterest , Instagram  & Google+

The K9 Coach is a Professional Certified Dog Trainer Serving Charlotte, NC, Matthews, NC and surrouding areas.

My mission is a better life for dogs as members of a forever family.

My goal is create training solutions for the home owner, to rehabilitate dogs from shelters and rescues, and to prevent dogs from dying alone as strays or owner surrenders in shelters due to unnecessary aggression or behavioral issues.

Begin training with a consult with a professional trainer to be sure you're solving the right problem. Misdiagnosis can make the matters worse. Be sure that there are no medical issues at play and that your dog is not in pain, as pain can be a contributor to a new display of aggression. If you have any fear or uncertainty -- do not attempt the techniques without professional supervision.

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Kids and the Tolerant Dog at the Holidays

Kids and the Tolerant Dog at the Holidays

We have all heard the stories of dogs that are so great with children.   It's true many are.   But when it comes to bringing children and dogs together in a home permanently or just for the weekend there are many things you need to consider.

As humans, we all have a breaking point of tolerance.  I definitely do!  Your dog does too.  Even dogs we think are "bomb-proof" have a tipping point.   Do you know with 100% certainty what your dog will tolerate?  Are you sure?  100% in all circumstances?  Are you astute at reading your dog's behavior like a book to know his limits? 

As the holidays approach and you you are planning for guests, think about how much guests in your home can start to grate on your last nerve, no matter how much you love them.  They make remarks that annoy you, leave the toilet seat up, and make a mess in your kitchen. 

Dog's cannot express their frustration in the same way humans can.  And much like  when you reach the breaking point and snap with anger and words, they may snap with growling and teeth.   

Strangers can make them nervous to start and add in the holiday bustle, there nerves may be on edge.      Add to this a child that your dog doesn't know who's invading his space on the couch, darting by his food bowl, creating an elevated level of energy in the house, squealing loudly, or pulling his ears and his tail, or maybe even teasing him with food and toys....  it's a disaster waiting to happen. 

A dog that is usually lovable to your own toddler or child may hit their breaking point in ways you cannot predict.   Something as innocent as an attempted hug or kiss on the snout could be the breaking point.  It's very important to teach all children ways in which they need to respect the dog and to be sure your dog is given plenty of time to rest alone & away from the visitors.   


You also need to set boundaries with adults and to never leave a child unsupervised with any dog. Supervision means awake, adult, and aware supervision. Eyes on the scenario not just present. And not distracted by some other activity. If you cannot supervise - put the dog in his crate. Bedroom doors and doors to the outside can easily be opened carelessly. Be sure to secure entry to any area your dog may be in. . 

Socialization of your dog is important -- but it doesn't replace the safety precautions you need to take. 

These charts by Dr. Sophia Yin are great teaching tools to sit and have a conversation with your child, children who will be visiting, and maybe even some adults.

Take care of your dog & your children and play it safe.  Where appropriate, purchase a crate and use it to give your dog a place of his own to stay stay this holiday season. If the issues are severe enough with your dog -- consider boarding him while visitors are present. 

Need more help preparing your dog for crate training, reactivity, socialization, etc?   Call me!  I can help. 

Dana Brigman
The K9 Coach
Dog Training - Matthews, NC
980-339-8064
www.thek9-coach.com
info@thek9-coach.com

Follow us On

Facebook,  Youtube, Twitter, Pinterest , Instagram  & Google+

The K9 Coach is a Professional Certified Dog Trainer Serving Charlotte, NC, Matthews, NC and surrounding areas.

 My mission is a restored life for dogs as members of a forever family.

We create training solutions for the do and the owner. We partner with shelters and rescues to rehabilitate and prepare dogs for adoption. Our goal is to prevent dogs from dying alone as strays or owner surrenders in shelters due issues training can resolve or prevent.

Begin training with a consult with a professional trainer to be sure you're solving the right problem. Misdiagnosis can make the matters worse. Be sure that there are no medical issues at play and that your dog is not in pain, as pain can be a contributor to a new display of aggression. If you have any fear or uncertainty -- do not attempt the techniques without professional supervision.

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