First Aid Kit For Your Dog

First Aid Kit For Your Dog

 

 

Seconds matter in an emergency.  There is no time to scramble for emergency items in a crisis.   If you don't yet have a first aid kit for your dog -- consider putting one together.

While nothing replaces your veterinarian, some things can be treated at home, and other treatments may help buy you time to get to the vet.

You may want to consider keeping this in your CAR if you travel with your pet often for park outings, events, and other activities.   

• Benedryl  -- 1mg per pound of weight for allergic reactions.   

• Melatonin -- 1mg per 30-35 pounds for stress / anxiety

• Peroxide to induce vomiting

• Gas X   (especially for dogs prone to bloat)

• Eye Wash 

• Saline 

• Triple Antibiotic ointment for minor wounds

• Hydro cortisone Cream

• Rubbing Alcohol

• Pepto Bismol

• Gauze

• Sterile / Non-adhesive Pads

• Vet Wrap / Self-adhering medical wrap

• Ace Bandages

• Gloves 

• Hand Sanitizer

• Scissors

• Tweezers

• Muzzle

• Kennel Lead  (can be used as emergency muzzle if necessary)

• Hemostats

• Rectal thermometer

• Ice Pack

• Water Bottle

• Splint   (old paper towel roll?)

• Tongue Depressors

• Blanket

• Zippy bags

• Plastic Poop Bags 

• CPR Guide:

Created by:  American Red Cross

• Vet Records - easily accessed including the dog's health record, medications, local and national poison control numbers, regular veterinary clinic hours and telephone numbers, and emergency clinic hours and telephone number. 

• A list of your dogs medications and dosages

Phone Numbers:
Vet

Emergency Vet

Poison Control ---  888-426-4435

Take a look at the online app from American Red Cross for your phone
http://www.redcross.org/mobile-apps/pet-first-aid-app 


Dana Brigman
The K9 Coach
Dog Training - Matthews, NC
980-339-8064
www.thek9-coach.com
info@thek9-coach.com

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Teaching Your Dog To Sit and Stay

Teaching  Your Dog To Sit and Stay

I'm letting you guys in on a little secret.   A training guide I normally reserve for clients.     But since it's National Train Your Dog Month -- I'm sharing it with you.  



Command:   Sit!
Have him on leash so that he can't run away from you under distractions.
Hand Signal:  Cup your hand with back of hand facing the dog, approximately waist height  (Movement to this position should be crisp and with purpose!)
Verbal Non-Reward Marker:    "No" or "Aaaaak"-type sound and repeat "Sit"  (tone does not need to be loud or intimidating).  Always correct if he does not perform the command when you issue it, or if he breaks the command before you issue a new command or a release.   Hold him accountable. 
Praise:   always praise your dog for doing the right skill!  
Leash: Use your leash, even in the house and certainly as you progress to public distractions.

Initial Teaching (for a dog that does not already know the command)     

Option 1: 

•  Hold a Treat in front of your dog's nose in your cupped hand, raise treat up and back between dogs ears, slightly above his head.  Say "SIT!"    He should rock his bottom back into a sit position.  As soon as his bottom hit the ground, give the treat and say Okay!!!    
• Okay is his cue that it's okay to end the command.   Over the next several days make him wait a few seconds (building to minutes) before you treat and release.   Always praise for a job well done!   

Option 2:  for the slightly more  challenging learner.

• In additional to the steps in Option 1 -- Apply a gentle pressure with 2 fingers of your left hand @ base of tail.   The right hand is applying a very light tension on leash to lift up.   (This assumes you are facing forward with dog attempting to Sit! on your left)   
• NEVER apply direct pressure to the spine or back.
• Use this only to get him started moving in the posture.   And in a day or two eliminate this touch altogether.  

Acknowledge:   After he sits, verbally say Good Sit! Good Boy, That's It -- something that tells him he's done it right!   
Then ONLY when you are ready Release with Okay! to praise and reward. 



What might go wrong:

• If he's popping out of the sit to early, work on your timing.     Attempt to release him before he breaks so that you are creating success.  But still attempt to lengthen the stay over the next week or so.   
• If he's popping up as you reach down with the treat -- get low!   Sit on the floor to start and work your way to taller positions.   If as you bend he stands up -- you return to a stand tall position and give the verbal non-reward marker.    Be uber sure not to treat him if he's not in the sit position.
• As you progress -- do not hold the treat in your hand, but rather an easily accessible treat pouch.  So that he learns to work without the treat present
• And then start to randomize when the treat reward shows up -- but never miss the praise when you release.
  

Creating a good Sit/Stay:  Once your dog is sitting reliably on the first command, begin to use a little foot work to move away from the dog.   Start with 1/2 steps (only 1 foot moves) or single steps to start and then release.   Create success!  Build up to getting to the full extension of your leash, making the full circle around your dog, and on increasing the duration he must hold this command.   

We do not give a STAY command typically.   It is implied in the command itself.   And often less confusing to the dog.  Remember the less words we use the better!  If he's sitting, he should just sit until released.  

Class Goal #1:  Your goal for class is holding an uninterrupted sit/stay 5 minutes (while other dogs are moving nearby)

Class Goal #2:  master the auto sit.   From a heeling position, when you stop walking your dog should sit automatically without cue from you!

Using in every day life:
As soon as your dog knows Sit with the built in Stay, begin to have your dog wait

• patiently for his meals or treats
• to put on his leash
• for doors to open and be invited through them (house and car), practice commands when the doorbell rings, when you go for a walk
• at Pet Retailers or the Vet's office
  
• on street corners during a walk
• when greeting friends, etc. 
  
• to exit his crate
• when you need him to focus on you for any reason.  It becomes such a fundamental skill it can give him familiar skills to draw on when he's anxious or stressed.
  

Why Auto sit Can Be Helpful

• Greeting a neighbor or stranger on the street and stop to chat for a moment. 
• You stop at the mailbox or answer a phone call
• You're pushing a baby stroller and walking your dog and need to stop to attend the baby
• What if you fall down and injure yourself and aren't able to hold the leash?

Make this your most useful go-to command.

 More on Sit -- It's Not a Trick

Here's Your Dog Training Challenge for the Month of January 2014  --

Practice Training Sit/Stay 

Win A Leather Slip Lead

Upload a video of you and your dog to our Facebook page walking nicely, coming to a complete stop with him sitting at your side without a verbal cue or hand signal.   The stopping alone should be enough to get him to sit.
Then you walk away from him at least 6 feet away (typical leash distance) and circle behind him (no eye contact). Hold it for 1.5 minutes and then release and praise!     Entry must be posted by 6pm ET January 31, 2014.
We will randomly select a winner from the qualified video entries!

Here is your first set of instructions to teach Sit!
With this and the tips we give all month long you're doing to master this and more!

This Leash Can Be Yours!   Enter the Video Contest!

 

Dana Brigman

The K9 Coach

Dog Training - Matthews, NC

980-339-8064

www.thek9-coach.com

info@thek9-coach.com

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Games: Red Light / Green Light

Games can be fun for your kids to play with the dog.   But they can also be great educational life skills for you dog.   Red Light / Green Light is one that will help teach your dog a bit of impulse control by allowing him to get all excited and playful and then stop instantly when told. 

It's easy and it's fun for everyone to play.  

Your dog will need to know the basic skills Sit, Down, and Come before you play the game.  They should also be familiar with Okay! as a release cue.   So if necessary, teach those skills first.   Remember:  all learning is good for your dog so take the time necessary to build the foundation.

Play in large enclosed (fenced) area that is safe from hazzards that your kids or dogs might fall  over or get the dog's leash caught on.  The leash will be used initially to help teach your dog the game.

Engage your dog in a fun game of chase or with a toy tug.

Once the dog is engaged and excited, stop suddenly and issue a command like "Sit"

• If they sit, quickly say Okay! start playing again with the toy or the game of chase
• If they don't sit on command, use your leash to prevent the escape and them help them sit

 Play for several intervals and take a break.

Over the course of the next few days play the game and increase the time the dog has to hold his command before you release and play again.

Play with enthusiasm, but become calm and still when you ask the dog to sit for the first few days.   Then up the ante by getting excited or showing the toy again before you release him to play with you.

Dogs love fun and challenges!  You do too -- right?  Get out and play with the dog.

Once he knows the game, you can apply this quick issue of a command in moments when your dog may be getting to excited in the house, when the kids friends come over, or something unusual distracts him.  






Dana Brigman
The K9 Coach
Dog Training - Matthews, NC
980-339-8064
www.thek9-coach.com
info@thek9-coach.com

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The K9 Coach is a Professional Certified Dog Trainer Serving Charlotte, NC, Matthews, NC and surrounding areas.


Ask us about a photo shoot with your dog !   Weenie Dog Photography   All K9 Coach clients are eligible for a discount! 

My mission is a better life for dogs as members of a forever family.

My goal is create training solutions for the home owner, to rehabilitate dogs from shelters and rescues, and to prevent dogs from dying alone as strays or owner surrenders in shelters due to unnecessary aggression or behavioral issues.

Begin all training with a consultation with a professional trainer to be sure you're solving the right problem. Misdiagnosis can make the matters worse. Be sure that there are no medical issues at play and that your dog is not in pain, as pain can be a contributor to a new display of aggression. If you have any fear or uncertainty -- do not attempt the techniques without professional supervision.

Games: Teaching Fetch

It's fun to play games with your dog.  Some dogs need a job to do or to have an outlet for their energy and athleticism.  Kids often want to play with the dog, but aren't necessarily very skilled at holding them accountable to obedience work.

So what better game than Fetch? 

Teaching Fetch:   Fetch will teach your  to run after a your dog to retreive an object  that you have thrown (they see where it goes) and bring it back to you.   

It's easy to get started -- but remember you must have a high level of enthusiasm yourself for playing.   Your don't isn't going to know right away what the point of the game is.   And if you are not having fun and get him motivated he will just look at the ball, look at you, and go find something else more fun to do.  Have fun with your dog.... sometimes you have to teach them how.

 One easy way to get started:

• Cut a small in an old tennis ball and drop a smelly treat inside.  (Parents should do this for the kids)
• Toss the ball playfully away from you (a very short distance) and encourage her to pick it up and bring back to you.  (Using a leash or working in a room without an escape route might be necessary to keep your dog interested for a few minutes).
• Motivate with your voice, patting your legs, etc to get her to return to you.   Praise her from returning with the ball.  Play with excitment!
• When returns with the ball, take* the ball from her and squeeze the ball to release the treat.
• Repeat several times – the dog will start to return the ball to you to get the treat
• Begin to add a cue word as you toss the ball -- “go get it”, “fetch”, “retrieve” – whatever you want your cue word to be, just use the same word all the time. 
• Begin to add a cue word as you take the ball or as she drops it –  “give”, “drop it*”  -- whatever you want your cue word to be, just use the same word all the time. 
• Once your dog really masters the concept of the game, you can use a ball without the treat in it and reward the treat from your pocket
• Then you can use other objects to send her to retrieve -- like a Frisbee or other toy.

• Advancing skills -- Once the game is understood -- increase the challenge.   Ask her to  sit  (or down) and wait to be released to go retrieve the item – meaning she has to hear the cue word before she runs after it.  

*We will provide instructions for Drop It and other games soon.

The K9 Coach

Dana Brigman, CDT, IACP, APDT

980-339-8064
Email:  info@thek9-coach.com

Website:  www.thek9-coach.com

Facebook:  www.facebook.com/thek9coachcharlotte
Pinterest:  www.pinterest.com/thek9coach
Youtube:  www.youtube.com/thek9coachcharlotte

The K9 Coach is a Professional Certified Dog Trainer Serving Charlotte, NC, Matthews, NC and surrounding areas.

 

My mission is a better life for dogs as members of a forever family.

My goal is create training solutions for the home owner, to rehabilitate dogs from shelters and rescues, and to prevent dogs from dying alone as strays or owner surrenders in shelters due to unnecessary aggression or behavioral issues.

Begin all training with a consultation with a professional trainer to be sure you're solving the right problem. Misdiagnosis can make the matters worse. Be sure that there are no medical issues at play and that your dog is not in pain, as pain can be a contributor to a new display of aggression. If you have any fear or uncertainty -- do not attempt the techniques without professional supervision.

Separation Anxiety & Isolation Distress

Separation Anxiety

Most people typically love when  their dog wants to be right by their side.  After all, we wanted a companion.   But when your dog won't even let you out of sight to take a shower  ~  you may be dealing with something a little more than a desire to be with you.

If your dog panics when you leave the house and attempts to break out of his crate,  drools puddles of saliva, injures himself, or attempts to eat your dry wall ~ you are definitely dealing with an anxiety disorder with your dog.

Dogs with separation anxiety or isolation distress suffer from a very real physiological stress response.  They can't rest.  They pant heavily.  They pace.  They drool profusely.   They panic and need to get to you -- wherever you may have gone.      They believe that their eating the front door is what brought you back home.   So when it works once in their mind -- they do it again the next day.   When it doesn't work the same way, they intensify. 


Separation Anxiety is often misdiagnosed by the owner.   The term is applied generically to every whine or whimper your dog has when put his or her crate.  They may even think a crate escape artist has separation anxiety  -- but really he's absolutely fine without you home though maybe a little mischievous -- once he's out of the crate.  He just hasn't be properly acclimated to  his crate. 

• Some dogs will be fine with  you out of the room as long as you're in the house -- Separation Anxiety.  
• Other dogs can't bear to have you out of sight, even if you're home -- Isolation Distress.

It's a terrible way of being for your dog.  And for you.   You may be feeling like you can't risk leaving the house for fear of an emergency vet visit or needing a new front door.  It is highly emotional for everyone.

There are no quick fixes.  Generally speaking:   Your dog is not going to get better on his own.  He won't outgrow it on his own.  And he won't give up. 

You need to begin today helping your dog change his behavior.   Stop feeling sorry for your dog's past, let go of everything that happened yesterday  -- live in the present and change your behavior.

• Lead him gently but with confidence and consistency as a daily way of life. 

• Be consistent with clear expectations for your dog's behavior -- and your own.

• Work on serious obedience training -- teach your dog several new skills hat he can earn praise for and build his on confidence in ways he can please you.  Challenge his mind and stimulate him mentally each day.

• Exercise him daily with structured walks (heel, sit/stay around distractions, recall work, etc)to the point of being nice and tired (not exhausted) --- he will be more responsive to the work you're doing if he has burned off excess energy.   A leisure walk and an open run in your fenced yard is not structured exercise.

• Find a great game you can play with him -- Fetch, Tug (if appropriate), Scent Work, etc.

  
Crate Train Your Dog   Crate Training Guide

• Please be aware that if you start zip tying your dog in his crate that it's a) Dangerous in an emergency that you might not be able to get him out quickly and b) it might create even more stress and panic for the dog. 
• Use the crate while you are home -- not just when you leave.  We know you love Fido and want to cuddle with him as much as possible -- but at this time, until the SA is resolved, you may need a little tough love.  Teaching him that being in his crate can be restful while you're home.

Working with Isolation Distress:  You won't be able to leave the house, if you can't leave the room. 

•  Teach Place!   If your dog can learn to settle and relax on a mat with you in the room, he can also learn to settle and relax on a mat as leave the room for timed intervals.    It gives your dog something to do that he knows how to do -- and he will earn your praise for doing it.   That makes him happy.  Attempt to achieve an hour or two while you're home!
• Basic obedience will help in this area as well.    
• Add duration work -- long down stays (20-30 minutes) while you make dinner or watch TV/read.   Require him to down/stay in his crate with the door open.
• Giving him a chew toy, yummy frozen treat etc may help

 Working on Separation Anxiety:

It is highly recommended to not leave the dog alone for the first several days or even weeks as you work though training.   Each incident of panic your dog has, makes overcoming the anxiety that much more difficult.

I recommend you take a few days off work or at least over a weekend, and start practicing this behavior modification for several days in a row.  You'll make a lot more progress with repetition and consistency.   Many people consider doggie day care, pet sitters, or other solutions to prevent the doing being alone at home for extended periods of time until training progresses.

• Change your routine.  Create an unexpected response for your dog.

• When your dog is familiar and comfortable with being his crate with the door closed for a while with you home but out of the room -- begin to walk outside.

• Create incremental training goals.   Timed & Random intervals in the crate as you go outside, leave the house from 1 minute building to a couple of hours

Barking, Whining, Scratching and Gnawing must be corrected.

• The more they practice these behaviors, the more they embrace these behaviors.  Put a stop to these behaviors by drawing on other obedience skills.    Work on teaching a quite or calm command.   
• When necessary consider other training tools to interrupt the unwanted behaviors.

I know what you're thinking.   This could take weeks!  Yes, it could.   Your dog didn't develop this level of anxiety overnight and you won't solve it overnight.  It takes as long as it takes.   But with regular practice, keeping him guessing about the pattern, and you remaining consistent in your behavior -- you will see results. 

There are some holistic medications you can give you dog to help with anxiety.   These may include melatonin, Rescue Remedy, Calming Collars, Storm Stress, Lavender Essential Oils, Chamomile Tea, Valerian Root to name a few.   Discuss any supplements and dosages with your veterinarian,especially if your dog is on other medications.    Many vets may not agree with holistic solutions, so do your research.

For severe cases your vet may help you by prescribing something to help with behavior modification.   Medication alone is not your solution.  You still need to put in the training work.

We're here to help with you need us.   Call today.




Dana Brigman
The K9 Coach
Dog Training - Matthews, NC
980-339-8064
www.thek9-coach.com
info@thek9-coach.com

Follow us On

Facebook,  Youtube, Twitter, Pinterest , Instagram  & Google+

The K9 Coach is a Professional Certified Dog Trainer Serving Charlotte, NC, Matthews, NC and surrounding areas.

 

My mission is a better life for dogs as members of a forever family.

My goal is create training solutions for the home owner, to rehabilitate dogs from shelters and rescues, and to prevent dogs from dying alone as strays or owner surrenders in shelters due to unnecessary aggression or behavioral issues.

Begin all training with a consultation with a professional trainer to be sure you're solving the right problem. Misdiagnosis can make the matters worse. Be sure that there are no medical issues at play and that your dog is not in pain, as pain can be a contributor to a new display of aggression. If you have any fear or uncertainty -- do not attempt the techniques without professional supervision.

Food or Praise for Rewards?

Food or Praise for Rewards?

The short answer is both!  Each has a purpose.   
Get a Treat Pouch and Use it! 

Most dogs will do just about anything for food... especially if they are hungry.    Many dogs will start performing all sorts of behaviors to see if it will be the one that makes you release that yummy treat.   A dog's sense of smell is extremely powerful.  So something that smells yummy will interest them.  Be aware yummy often stinks to us.

To make sure they are hungry when it's time to learn something new, skip the meal prior to the training session.    It won't hurt them -- physically or emotionally.   In fact, it reinforces you control resources for a dominant dog, and helps every dog get focused on learning when you do offer the
food.



Praise -- it's something we will always have with us.   Use it ~ a lot!   If you are using food as a reward, use your praise also.  The dog will create an association of the food reward with your praise and vice versa.

Praise is also something they can learn comes from everyone!  The stranger that finds him if he escapes your yard, your vet, groomer, retail clerk, friends or family may not have the "special" treats your dog loves and will only perform his commands for.

Plan ahead for the life of you dog and know that praise is universal.

Always at least verbally acknowledge the things your dog well!   Ideally, you will want to use the same words so that he learns what they mean, an enthusiastic tone of voice, and physical touch when appropriate.   Consider words like  "yes!", "That's Better", "Good boy".    This reinforces the behaviors you want him to give you and encourages them to keep at it.

When you are training a new skill or trying to counter-condition a behavioral issue, but sure you praise lavishly for a job well-done!  If you have had to give several verbal non-reward markers (No, aaak aaak, etc) to get him to delivery the skill -- withhold your big praise and your treats, and give just the verbal "good boy".  

Some excitable dogs may find that your enthusiasm or your physical touch creates so much excitement that they break their command.  Tone it down if needed.  Don't be the reason your dog breaks his command.      If you do have one a dog like this -- save your best praise for the end of a training segment and then bring on enthusiasm and celebrate with your dog for a great lesson.

As your dog progresses in his learning -- save big praise and/or treats only for the times he delivers the command on the first time he's told.   If you continue to reward after mistakes, he'll keep making them.  


What food to use?
"But my dog is not food motivated".   It's true -- not all dogs are food extremely  motivated, but most people give up too soon on finding out what food will work for your dog.  They will often be food motivated if the treat is valuable enough.  A dog's sense of smell is typically quite acute and will entice them check out what we're offering and if they are hungry.


Explore different food choices ~ hotdogs, boiled chicken, dried liver, smelly cheese, etc.   The stinkier the better.  Figure out what works for your dog.  Something usually will.

For young puppies, your training reward might be as simple as a Cheerio.

For all dogs you can use their meal-time as a reinforcement of Sit/Stay or Down/Stay to earn their food bowl.  They have to hold the command until you release them to eat.

No Really -- He's At All Not Food Motivated:
If food doesn't work -- you need to try toys.  But remember tossing a toy generally gets them up and moving and might not be the reward you want during obedience work or in a group class setting.    It's great for teaching, reward for nose work, or tricks -- but praise may be your best option until you are ready to release the dog from a command.  



Pudgy Pooch?
Remember, we said skipping a meal is not going to hurt them.  So if you are using lots of food reward during training, be sure to cut down calories from their normal meal by skipping or at least giving a smaller portion.

You can also use their kibble for basic training reward, especially after they have learned a new skill.  Alternatively, as you advance your skills, you can cut up some chicken, hotdog or cheese, add some kibble to the treat pouch with that smelly treat and alternate the two rewards.  The kibble will be enhanced by the smell of the other treat reward.  

Dana Brigman

The K9 Coach

Dog Training - Matthews, NC

980-339-8064

www.thek9-coach.com

info@thek9-coach.com

Follow us On

Facebook,  Youtube, Twitter, Pinterest , Instagram  & Google+

Begin all training with a consultation with a professional trainer to be sure you're solving the right problem. Misdiagnosis can make the matters worse. Be sure that there are no medical issues at play and that your dog is not in pain, as pain can be a contributor to a new display of aggression. If you have any fear or uncertainty -- do not attempt the techniques without professional supervision.

Help! My Dog Is Digging Up My Yard

I'm afraid in this training tip, my rescuer side might come out a little bit more than usual. 

Dogs are not meant to be outside unsupervised.   If you are out there playing with them, teaching them new skills or otherwise just relaxing, there typically will be no digging.  In all my years, I have never had a dog with a digging problem.   So there must be something to notion of play, supervision and training.

Digging is often a sign of boredom.   Dogs that are under-exercised or not getting enough mental stimulation and human interaction will find ways to occupy themselves.   On hot summer days, when left outside alone, they want to find a cool spot to lay so they churn up some dirt.

So, supervise and interrupt/correct the behavior.   Better yet, play with your dog in some structured games that incorporate impulse control, obedience skills, or even tricks.   Go for a walk!  Engage your dog!  Include him in your life.  

We really only have ourselves to blame if a dog is digging. 

Now that I have that off my chest,  I have reviewed a number of alternative solutions to digging that you might want to consider -- IF and ONLY IF supervision, play and training are not options for your dog.

Some folks have suggested putting a chicken wire mesh under the soil & mulch to make it unpleasant for your dog to dig.   I'd be super cautious about this as if that wire is damaged, it could easily lead to a severe injury for your dog, that is now filled with dirt, bacteria, etc.   I'd just say no to this option.


Take a look at what The Whole Dog Journal has to say about giving your dog a specific place to dig:

http://www.whole-dog-journal.com/issues/11_8/features/Destructive-Digging-Behavior-Solutions_16052-1.html





Dana Brigman
The K9 Coach
Dog Training - Matthews, NC
980-339-8064
www.thek9-coach.com
info@thek9-coach.com

Follow us On

Facebook,  Youtube, Twitter, Pinterest , Instagram  & Google+

The K9 Coach is a Professional Certified Dog Trainer Serving Charlotte, NC, Matthews, NC and surrounding areas.

My mission is a better life for dogs as members of a forever family.

My goal is create training solutions for the home owner, to rehabilitate dogs from shelters and rescues, and to prevent dogs from dying alone as strays or owner surrenders in shelters due to unnecessary aggression or behavioral issues.

Begin all training with a consultation with a professional trainer to be sure you're solving the right problem. Misdiagnosis can make the matters worse. Be sure that there are no medical issues at play and that your dog is not in pain, as pain can be a contributor to a new display of aggression. If you have any fear or uncertainty -- do not attempt the techniques without professional supervision.

New Dog Introductions

New Dog Introductions

There is absolutely NO REASON to rush dog to dog introductions or integration into your home.  You have nothing but time to get it right.   When it get it wrong, it's even more difficult to over come.   

Take your time.

_____________________________________________

A dog just pulled from the shelter or dropped off by their owner is in a state of confusion.   Even without visible behaviors, they are very likely to be highly stressed.  They may be fearful.  Every dog has the potential to be reactive.   They may not trust you fully – assume that they don’t.   

It’s important to keep some basic training thoughts in mind when you bring in a new dog to your home.  Rescue dogs are not perfect – they are being re-homed because they have issues of some sort.  In some cases it's simply a lack of basic training.   Assume they have had no leadership.  If they had -- chances are they wouldn't be with you today.

Some dogs will be effortless to fit in your family, while others may be more of a challenge.  You are doing an in-home evaluation of the unknown.  Their behavior at the shelter may not be what you experience.   Their behavior day 1 may not be the same as some point in the future when the honeymoon is over.   

Your own dogs may also respond in ways you have not predicted depending on their level of training, the energy of your pack and the energy presented by the new dog, and how you respond to it all.   You must assume the role of leader.   Period.  

Foster programs not only provides love, shelter and medical care for a rescued Dane;  the foster will need to  provide some basic training, discipline and boundaries..  We may or may not know the truth of their previous background.   It’s up to you to manage introductions, start training, and above all keep everyone in your home safe.

We all want to love these rescues and give them a better life.  Spoiling them rotten or letting them get away with everything because they have never been loved will NOT help these dogs.    You will show your love for them more if you create boundaries and discipline along with lots of TLC as you prepare them for a new home.  

The things you do beginning Day 1, will create the foundation for success.  You have to create the bond of trust & authority (this is not about dominance).  If new issues begin to arise, the sooner you address them the better.  If you are uncertain about a behavior – please seek assistance.  

Be patient and realize training and evaluations take time & effort. Puppies can more quickly overcome poor manners, but an adult dog might actually take many months of training, reconditioning & positive reinforcement to master these skills, and much of the success will depend on you as the handler and the environment you create.  Every positive experience you create for them today, and every negative one you prevent helps set them up for success.

Now, get out the treats and start rewarding all the positive things you want to reinforce and keep him doing.  And correct the issues that are not acceptable.  

Some *Suggestions* from The K9 Coach Include:

Phase I -- at least 48 hours

• Transitions are hard on dogs.   Bringing a new dog into your home also be difficult on your own dog.    Have a quiet place for your new foster to rest and relax on their own.   Preferably this is a crate, x-pen or behind a baby gate.  You want them to be able to see you and your family/pack, but not to interact directly.

• Correct any negative responses from your foster or your pack.  A water bottle can work wonders.

• Feed them in their crate.

• Consider a relaxation cocktail:     Chamomile tea,  Rescue Remedy, Meletonin, and Lavender Oils for their bedding, collar, etc.  

• Interact with them only to provide food, water, and take for a walk to potty several times, and ideally a long walk to just be present with them.   His potty breaks outdoors should be without the other dogs.  

Phase II -- at least 48 hours

• Introduce them to your pack slowly one at a time and on neutral turf such as the front yard with everyone on leash. Don't just open the front door or the fence gate and let the go. This may take you a few days to manage introductions & have safe boundaries for everyone to sniff and smell before they greet directly.

• Watch for and learn the signals the dog is giving you -- and he will in most cases give you an indication of his stress, fear, or attitude. Knowing those signals can help you solve many problems before they escalate. And remember, not all indicators are bad. In fact, it's better to be warned, than not be warned at all and a fight or bite occurs.    What is their response to each other?   Play?  Cautious?   Fear?   Aggression?   These answers will dictate the steps you need to take moving forward and determine your pace.    Review Dog Body Language Signals Here

• Go for a long walk with just you and the foster.   It’s important that they learn to trust you and you learn to read them before a full integration in your pack. 

Phase III

• Begin to take time each day to do some basic training. 10 - 15 minutes a few times a day goes a long way.  Work with a leash and lots of treats on Sit, Come, Heel and Wait (for doors, food etc). Down is much harder and often stressful for the dog, so get the others mastered first even if it takes you several weeks to master them one at a time. A dog with trust issues or fear may be much harder to teach -- so go slower with these dogs.

• Consider some quiet time each day in their crate/x-pen, with time to come out and play/train with you. Play can be training too. Have time that your own dogs are out with you alone without the new foster/adoptee. Just take it slow and give everyone some time and attention to acclimate.

• Always be careful reaching for their collar as a correction, or to move them from the couch (which he shouldn't be on yet anyway). Consider a leash vs direct hand to collar corrections until you are confident in his behavior.  Remember – when he gives you the behavior you do want – give a small treat and lots praise.  Over time phase out the treats and emphasize the praise and physical touch!   Treats should be used only randomly over time. 

• It is as important to train children (and some adults) about respecting the dog, his personal space, his resources (toys & food), his size, etc as it is for you to train the dog about respecting the kids.   Visitors may not be as savvy as your own family, so never leave them unsupervised.   If necessary, put the Dane in his crate during play-dates.  Use This Document as a Teaching tool for your Kids  (Other documents are also in this location)

Phase IV

• When you do give them time out of the crate in the house,  supervise at all times.  Consider having them drag a leash behind them in case you need to correct them.

• Don't let them on the furniture right away. They may begin to guard it and you. Give them a nice cozy, safe place of their own.  If they are guarding you or the kids, from others – a sharp correction, and temporary removal from the presence of the person or thing he’s guarding is a good start.  Note:  Dogs who have a tendency to display aggression should NEVER be allowed on the furniture or bed. 

• Begin early teaching that food from the table or during meal preparation is not going to happen. It just reinforces counter surfing and begging. Send them to their "place" or crate during meal times. Once they are more trustworthy, begin setting boundaries to keep them out of the kitchen or dining room during meal time. This may also mean the kids can't eat on the coffee table, unless he's very well trained to stay in place while they eat.

• Avoid allowing resource guarding -- teach them to wait for their food, and do some hand-feeding. If you feel comfortable, see if you can remove the bowl and give them something of greater value while you do so. He's not going to understand if you just take his bowl mid-meal.   

• If he is showing any signs of food aggression –seek help if you are inexperienced in handling these issues.

• Work on the "leave it" command, by asking them to give up some toy or bone by giving them a much greater value treat or toy, then giving the object back. They need to learn that it's ok to give up something they like when you ask. It just might be your shoe or your kids favorite toy.    Training Guide for Leave It  

• Don't entertain guests or take them on outings (events, Petsmart, etc)  for the first 2-3 weeks. We know you want to show them off, but you need to bond, and gain some experience with the new pack member. When you do take them out or have people over -- do not leave them unsupervised. Manage their environment, the energy present, and the greetings by others (human and dogs, and especially kids). If any indications of fear are present, give him some space & distance from the greeter.  Teach your guests and your family to respect boundaries with the new dog.   

• When you finally do have guest overs – ask them to give your dog a treat or two.   Even if it’s to gently toss the treat in his direction.  Do this every time they come over (for a few months) – it teaches them visitors mean I get some yummy treats!  You may need to have him crated for the first few visits, sit quietly by the door, on a “place” in the living room away from the door, before they enter, etc.  

There are generally 3 transition phases in the home -- 3 days, 3 weeks and 3 months.    Keep your leadership level consistent at all times, but be alert to the time-frames and watch for possible changes in your dog.  If necessary go back to the basics and reclaim your role as leader. 

Dana Brigman
The K9 Coach
Dog Training - Matthews, NC
980-339-8064
www.thek9-coach.com
info@thek9-coach.com

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The K9 Coach is a Professional Certified Dog Trainer Serving Charlotte, NC, Matthews, NC and surrounding areas.


My mission is a better life for dogs as members of a forever family.

My goal is to create dog training solutions for the home owner, to rehabilitate dogs from shelters and rescues, and to prevent dogs from dying alone as strays or owner surrenders in shelters due to unnecessary aggression or behavioral issues.


Seek professional dog training help if you have questions about behavior or dog training.  Your own dogs are going through transitions as well. so monitor their behavior and get help if needed. 

*NOTE*  Every scenario is different. You must evaluate your own experience level and understanding of the techniques before implementing them and you must evaluate the response you receive from the dog regarding your pace and your follow-up actions.  Seek professional training if necessary.

This is a suggested list of considerations.   It is NOT intended to be a substitute for professional dog training nor is it a guarantee of success in rehabilitating a dog or safely integrating them into your home. 

This document was developed for a Rescue Foster Program with Great Dane Friends.   It may not be reproduced or distributed in anyway other than sharing a link to this blog.   Other rescues are welcome to refer foster homes or new adopters to this document.