March 31, 2014

Thunder Phobia In Dogs



And The Thunder Rolls:
by:  Dana Brigman, The K9 Coach
Dog Training Matthews NC

 


Summer comes with thunder, lightening and fireworks which can be frightening for puppies and adults alike.  It can send your dog
Princess Lexie
running for the covers or shaking under the table.  There are options to help you create peace for your pooch.  


If you are raising a puppy, the first time they experience these events may be highly stressful.  Your reaction to the event is key.   Don't make a big deal out of it. Ignore the storm and go about your normal activities.  If you're outside when it pops, calmly head back for the house.   Make no dramatic fanfare about the noise, wind or rain.  

We all want to snuggle up with them, but DO NOT pet your dog at this time.   Just placing your hand on their back can be comforting, but you do not want to stroke or pet, as this reinforces their state of mind.  

Keep your voice calm but not soothing.   They may associate your empathy with getting a "reward" from you for being stressed out.   

Offer a distraction like playing a game with them and make it fun.  Spend a few minutes working on simple obedience skills that earn them yummy treats that are reserved ONLY for thunder/fireworks training.   Keep them occupied with something far more enjoyable that trembling in fear.  

It's a little more challenging when you take in an adult who has fear issues with thunder, lightening and fireworks or when you discover that your dog has become fearful "suddenly".  Perhaps something happened before your adoption/foster, or perhaps even while you were not home during an event.   Many people use wraps like the ThunderShirt (tm).  These tools be highly effective when used properly.  

When using a wrap, you can't just put it on the dog during the event and pray that it works.   It is advisable to introduce the dog to the wrap well in advance of it's use by letting them smell it, touch it, perhaps even sleep with it in their crate for a day or two.   Then when the dog is in a very calm state of being, begin to put it on them.  You may even offer treats to do so.   Then take it off promptly.   Gradually, working in incremental stages to 10, 20, 30, 60 minutes of wear.  This helps the dog become accustomed to the process of putting the wrap on, so that when a storm is forecasted you can get it on with ease, well in advance of the storm arrival.   It is highly recommended that you do not leave your dog home alone during the first few storms they are wearing the wrap.  You want to monitor it's effectiveness and your presence as you go about normal activities and perhaps some game play will help them stay in a calm state of mind.

You might also try music as a rehabilitation tool.   You can find CD's from dog trainers targeted at Thunder and Firework desensitization.  You can also find spa music to download from your music marketplace -- just look for piano based music with thunder in the background.   Again, while the dog is calm and no storm on the horizon begin playing the music on a low volume.  You can do this while working on your laptop, household chores, etc.  Many dogs will simply sleep through it.  You may get a ear perk or two if it's too loud to start.   Say nothing and lower the volume.  Play it daily, and gradually increase the volume.   

It may at times be necessary to also consider holistic remedies or prescribed medication if the other treatments don't work effectively enough.  Storm Stress, Rescue Remedy are good products.   Check out http://www.blackwingfarms.com as well.    Chamomile Tea, Lavender, Calming Collars  etc may all be helpful.   Melatonin can be too -- check with your vet if your dog is on any prescription meds to verify there won't be any adverse interactions.   And be sure to check proper dosage for your dog's weight/age, etc.

The first storm or two may not be perfect, but my Great Dane who has been afraid of storms, will now go outside while the thunder rolls to go potty if necessary.   I don't make her do that, but she will.

If these training plans don't have sufficient results in a reasonable period of time, it may be necessary to discuss prescription meds for anxiety with your veterinarian.


Still having trouble with your dog in the storm?  Have you had success with wraps?   Let us her from you.

We're here to help. 

Dana Brigman
The K9 Coach
Dog Training - Matthews, NC
980-339-8064
www.thek9-coach.com
info@thek9-coach.com

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March 23, 2014

First Aid Kit For Your Dog

First Aid Kit For Your Dog

 

 

Seconds matter in an emergency.  There is no time to scramble for emergency items in a crisis.   If you don't yet have a first aid kit for your dog -- consider putting one together.

While nothing replaces your veterinarian, some things can be treated at home, and other treatments may help buy you time to get to the vet.

You may want to consider keeping this in your CAR if you travel with your pet often for park outings, events, and other activities.   


  • Benedryl  -- 1mg per pound of weight for allergic reactions.   
  • Melatonin -- 1mg per 30-35 pounds for stress / anxiety
  • Peroxide to induce vomiting
  • Gas X   (especially for dogs prone to bloat)
  • Eye Wash 
  • Saline 
  • Triple Antibiotic ointment for minor wounds
  • Hydro cortisone Cream
  • Rubbing Alcohol
  • Pepto Bismol
  • Gauze
  • Sterile / Non-adhesive Pads
  • Vet Wrap / Self-adhering medical wrap
  • Ace Bandages
  • Gloves 
  • Hand Sanitizer
  • Scissors
  • Tweezers
  • Muzzle
  • Kennel Lead  (can be used as emergency muzzle if necessary)
  • Hemostats
  • Rectal thermometer
  • Ice Pack
  • Water Bottle
  • Splint   (old paper towel roll?)
  • Tongue Depressors
  • Blanket
  • Zippy bags
  • Plastic Poop Bags 


  • CPR Guide:

Created by:  American Red Cross



  • Vet Records - easily accessed including the dog's health record, medications, local and national poison control numbers, regular veterinary clinic hours and telephone numbers, and emergency clinic hours and telephone number. 
  • A list of your dogs medications and dosages

Phone Numbers:
Vet

Emergency Vet

Poison Control ---  888-426-4435

Take a look at the online app from American Red Cross for your phone
http://www.redcross.org/mobile-apps/pet-first-aid-app 


Dana Brigman
The K9 Coach
Dog Training - Matthews, NC
980-339-8064
www.thek9-coach.com
info@thek9-coach.com

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March 16, 2014

Dog Training Summary: Anna Leash Panic

Dog Training Summary:   Anna Leash Panic

Anna (approx 3 year old Pit Mix) was adopted last year by a great family.   They called with an original issue of a reactive dog on leash and wanting to achieve the ability of their 11 year old daughter being able to leash walk her.

Anna was adopted from a local rescue group.  The foster had not seen any reactive issues in her behavior and had mentioned even having her in a group obedience class.     
It was believed that Anna may have been chained outside with puppies that she had to defend from other dogs.  
We did a 6 week series focused on obedience work and behavior modification for the leash reactivity.  Anna's reaction was not really one of aggression -- there was no growl and really not even a bark.  Rather it was a crazy shrill sound with an intense fixation on the other dog.  She clearly had a very emotional reaction at other dogs when she walked through the neighborhood or when they tried to go to pet stores.

We made significant improvement in 6 short weeks and the family opted to continue efforts on their own.

I didn't hear from them for almost a year.

The call came about a month ago that Anna had attacked the neighbors dogs.  Apparently she had escaped the house through a door that was not secured properly while the family was not at home.  They wanted intense board and train to evaluate, training and rehab this issue.

What I now know about that day was the neighbors had been out in their front yard on a beautiful spring day with their dogs playing in the yard.   Apparently for quite some time Anna worked herself into a frenzy seeing them out there, and once she got the door open charged over.   The neighbors, thankfully were able to prevent a significant incident and no one was harmed   (This is actually kind of a clue to Anna's issue and her evaluation)

Anna had made a couple of doggie friends -- and could relax around them at a local cafe or take a walk with them.   But, if she was sitting on her families balcony, she might get stimulated at some of the passersby.   She also escalated when certain dogs ran past her. 

So a few days later Anna moved in with me for a planned 2-3 weeks.

Following standard protocol here, she was separated from my pack initially, and our first day together was spent with a nice long walk, and some playing ball time.

The very first morning here -- Anna found a bunny in the yard and gave a relentless chase through the yard, until the bunny found his escape route.  She chased, but was not barking or growling.   Just running.

This led me to give consideration to what we're dealing with was more a a very high prey/chase drive than aggression. 
The first few days here was ta very strict tune-up on her obedience and learning to do an emergency U-Turn  (Uh -oh  let's go!).   She was pretty good, but we did a fair amount of distance work, distraction work, and then some play each day.  Our goal s not about walking through the neighborhood yet.  I wanted a solid obedience foundation in place first and for her to have a relationship of trust with me.

I embraced her chase drive and played a lot of ball with her and let her chase toys.   (Flirt poles are great options for chasing "prey" and the Chuck-It is awesome for throwing the ball)

After about 3 days her, I introduced Anna to Lexie.   No issues.     I decided to then try Vika -- another young Pit who absolutely loved to play with everyone.   Anna was a bit to much for her.    Anna actually did try to play.  She did many of the behaviors you'd want to see in a playful dog like turning her backside to Vika, stepping back from the play for a pause, etc.    But -- every time she does go into to play she goes for the neck.   Not just a good game of bite-face, and not biting Vika at all, just VERY rough.   She would run and run and run through the yard.

At this point Anna got moved from the front room of my house to the main living space.   In the front room she was crated and behind another x-pen used as a barrier that gave visual line of sight, but where no one could get directly nose to nose with her crate,   Now she's exposed directly to everyone, but no contact.

I'm still not letting her outside with the Weenie Dogs since I'm still not entirely sure about her prey/chase drive, and they run through the yard like rabbits :-)

A day or so later she met Vinnie outside with no issues.  

And then we met the weenie dogs -- and NADA.  No reaction to them at all.  In fact, the weenies are known to very clearly say "get outta my face!" to another dog, and she respected that.

Anna's issue is not aggression.

During this time I have also noticed that Anna is highly excitable.  And I do mean HIGHLY!

She gets  persistent about licking me when she wants attention if I was sitting down.  If I was standing she'd like my feet or jump up on me, even mouthing my hands.    She would FLY out the back door when you let her out - -which by the way I stopped as soon as I expected prey/chase drive, because it's important to control how outings begin.  If she's goes out over stimulated it's much less likely to get her back down -- if she goes out calm we have better control.

Anna was a bit dramatic in her crate.   Not crate anxiety, because she was fine if I wasn't home.   But if she was crated and I was here, including after she had completed her meal, she would have a bit of a hissy.  That was ignored and with requiring her to calm down before getting out -- she quickly got the message that there is no drama permitted and it doesn't work anyway.

Anna was required to manage impulse control everywhere.   Coming out of her crate, exiting the house, exiting the car, waiting on her meal, waiting for the ball to be thrown, waiting while other dogs walked past her, etc.   We practiced place and down stays daily while other dogs ran in the yard and played.  
Towards the end of that first week, we went to Petco and Petsmart in the same day!  I went at a time of day that it would not likely be crowded, but that might have some exposure to other dogs.  She did really well, but definitely had some escalations.   Our focus was on our obedience work -- though nothing harder than heel and sit.     Watch me is essential as well.


The next day we went to the park for our first outing.   We went at a very time when it was not overly busy and had a good walk.   It was introducing to the environment more than other dogs.  She did well, a few minor escalations, but nothing crazy.

At this point it's about creating consistency in her expectations of my behavior, what I expect of her, and sticking with simple obedience.  Sit, Heel and Watch Me.  Nothing More is necessary.

Anna road with me to a few client appointments.   On one particular outing she had a very difficult time in the car.   Unfortunately I arrived a little early to get her settled, but the owner came outside with her dog before I was ready!   I had really hoped to get Anna settled and go knock on their door and set it up.  But they were already there.
Welcome to the real world.  You cannot control everything.
We went to walk just about every day.  I had a friend meet me with her dog to take a walk with us, and no reaction.  Shocked even me!  We had a  great walk.  We were able to watch ducks and geese with really no escalation at all!   The only thing that set her off that day was someone ran past us.   Sticking with her skills, we got it under control and moved on in just a few seconds.     She stayed a little amped up, and escalated again a little later, but we moved through that one too, with consistency.   At this point we can't hide from the triggers, we have to deal with them in the same way every time.

After about a week, Anna was moved into my room at night in an x-pen.   I wanted to see what her response would be while other dogs moved around her and she wasn't crated.    She still had her crate for the day along with everyone else, but at night when we're watching TV and for sleeping, I upgraded her to have some more room and just simply be being the partition.   She relaxed and slept well. 

As Anna's confidence grew I increased the challenge.   We went to the Dog Park.   Not to go in, but to be at a place I knew we'd see more dogs in motion.  It was a great outing.  She saw many dogs in the fenced are with no escalation.   It was a great walk until a JA (figure it out) with an off-leash dog came charging towards me and Anna.  He even had the nerve to ask me if it was my dog making all that drama -- I told him no - his dog caused it by charging towards us and by him not having any ability to verbally recall his dog. Thankfully there was no incident, just anxiety for her. 

Nice -- it's supposed to be a leashed area -- what a setback.  But, again, welcome to the real world.   She had another really crappy experience seeing another dog a few minutes later.   But we ended on a good note with a different dog and went home.   I was determined to end positive -- but sometimes you have to cut your losses and take a break to try another day.


It was about a week and a half and she was fully integrated into the pack of 5 other dogs for not only hanging out in the house, but going potty outside with everyone else.   She respected the weenies and never pressed her boundaries with them.   She tried to play with Vika, but still a bit too rough and when Vika said enough, she backed off.

We went to walk every day.  They weren't all perfect, but they were all good and saw signs of improvement.  She walked with Vinnie or Vika side by side with no issues,  My friend brought another of her dogs and no issues at all.  If fact, in some ways the pack walks helped her stay in the zone.

At the end of two weeks I had planned to take Anna to one of my classes and pack walk and her parents were coming to observe.

It was a mistake -- a big one.

1)   She was so excited to see her parents even though they had come to my house first,   It was a lot of excitement.
2)  The park was CRAZY busy on a beautiful Sunday.  It was too stimulating and Anna lost her <beep>

After about 15 minutes of not being able to calm, her I loaded her in the car to take her back home, but I needed to wait on a client to let them know we were all leaving :)   Her family went ahead and left.

We worked with Anna a bit trying to calm her down -- it didn't work well.   So I actually got her back out of the car, moved her out towards the woods and back of the fields at the park, and we had an escalation free walk!

We decided to extend Anna's training for another week and half.   For a total of 3 and half weeks. At this point, I decided to contact a holistic product company I had met at a trainers conference.   They may floral essence blends customized to specific problems.   You might think it's hokey-- but it was worth a try.  I mean I had nothing to lose and everything to gain.

So we continued our work -- every day.   Our new products came and we kept working.  Park walks about 6 of 7 days.  With great improvement, including walks on the green-way.   They weren't all perfect.  There were a few outbursts, but they got fewer, shorter and less intense.   We'd even start walking with or behind a dog that had caused her to escalate.

We practiced obedience skills, impulse control and even sat in the car and watched dogs walk past us.  We went to the pet stores again.  

I was super pleased with where we left off and sent Anna home to her family with strict instructions to not take her for a walk for 3 days -- until I could be there with them to train them!

We went Saturday afternoon for a long walk in their neighborhood and saw many dogs.   Anna would sit and observe with no escalation -- observation is good, interest is ok.  When she made the choice to look away from the other dogs, we walked on.  If she showed no real interest, we kept walking.

We kept it to Sit, Heel and Watch Me.  And many times if there was a "safe" zone we'd give her full length of the leash to have a nice leisurely walk without being in a command.   Walks have to become enjoyable and relaxed.   They cannot be 100% work.
 It was a beautiful walk.  Until neighbors had 2 off leash dogs.  Crap!  What went wrong was two things

1)  The neighbors started yelling at their dogs who were still in their yard and creating a big drama
2)  Anna's dad got nervous and tense too (Can you blame him?)

I honestly think if everyone had kept cool, and just had Anna retreat in a u-turn heel we would have avoided the escalation altogether.   It will come with practice and repetition and confidence :)

I'll go back next week, but they are off to a great start and Anna is healing.

The family is guided to:
  • Be very strict on obedience right now.   Daily and for a very long time.   Until the escalations are diminished and everyone is more relaxed together.
  • Play Daily --  Fetch, Toys, anything that stimulates her prey/chase drive and gives her both mental and physical activities.  
  • Manage Impulse control -- no exits from doors, crates, etc that don't start calmly.  Don't allow licking.  Don't allow crate drama.  
  • Practice down stays by the front door (with it open).  Down stays in the yard with reward.   Place while they do other activities around her.
  • Clear differentials between play and time to be obedient.
  • Walks are prescriptive in what to do when they go past another dog and holding her accountable to her obedience commands (heel, sit, watch me)  Nothing more!   Take play breaks on the walk in "safe zones" where there are no houses or other dogs nearby at the time. 
  • High value treats for a job well done and focus on the handler not the other dog
  • Reward good decisions - like looking away from and ignoring other dogs and especially for relaxation and focus on them.
  • Pack walks with well-balanced neighbors dogs.  Not dogs with excitable energy.
  • And to relax!  Expect a good walk.  Create a good walk.  


I have a few Anna Videos on Youtube


Please know that EVERY case is different.  Though there are many similarities in symptoms and many common steps to resolutions -- it is critical to be sure that you are solving the right problem with the right techniques.   Errors in judgment or diagnosis can make matters worse or even become dangerous to yourself, others or the dog.   Seek Professional Assistance before trying techniques on your own.

Dana Brigman
The K9 Coach
Dog Training - Matthews, NC
980-339-8064
www.thek9-coach.com
info@thek9-coach.com

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March 10, 2014

Adorable Is Not Criteria for Choosing a Dog




Pet Selection Criteria


Responsible dog ownership starts with your decision to bring a dog home.  



Making these decisions should start first with your research on the breed before you put in your application!  This also where a qualified, reputable, well-researched breeder or a breed specific rescue can aid you significantly.   They will know the history of the breed, the typical behaviors of the breed -- and also what they see in the specific dog you are considering from their program.

Your decision should never begin with "Oh how cute!" or "OMG he's GORGEOUS".   It should begin with "Is this breed right for my lifestyle NOW and what my lifestyle will be in 5, 10 or 15 years!"    Your decision should be based on can you give the dog the financial support it needs to be healthy, well-trained, groomed, boarded during vacation or emergencies.   Are you prepared to blame yourself if he eats your couch because you weren't supervising?

As you begin to think about adding a puppy or dog to your family, there are many things you should consider.  It's much more important to choose the right pet than to pick one that steals your heart just because he's cute.  Do your homework!  He may not be the perfect match for you.


Breed Characteristics:   Each breed has a unique purpose in life other than to be cute and adorable companions.   Some dogs will need a "job".   They have natural instincts and characteristics that may differ between breeds.    They don't call it "Working Class" for nothing.   They don't call them Terriers because they are cute.  Do you know what your dog's breed was designed to do?  It's likely to be an ever present instinct and some dogs may demonstrate it far more than others depending on breeding and up bringing.

General Temperament:   Within the breeds there are natural temperaments that present.  Certainly, genetics, environment, training, nurturing, etc can all affect how a dog behaves in his day to day life.

Exercise Needs:   Does the breed you are considering need to run and have significant daily exercise to stay healthy and ward off boredom, or is the breed that is happy to have a short burst of energy and then lounge on the couch all day?   If your goal is to run daily with the dog, are you choosing a breed built for that? 

Training Needs:   Again, we know that ALL dogs need training.   They don't come into the world knowing how to live in our homes.   Many factors influence their behavior.   Some dogs in rescue programs require more than others.   Some dogs, even if you purchased them from the best breeder in the country can develop issues with behavior.  You must be prepared to learn how to train your dog, and seek professional help when necessary.

Health Issues:   Do you know the common medical issues with your breed?   Can you afford it financially if your Dane is diagnosed with Wobbler?  If your Doxie hurts his back?   If your Golden has Hip Displaysia?  Or your best bud blows out a knee?  Are you prepared if your dog develops an illness or injury that requires financial support?

Size When Grown:  Puppies are adorable... but they grow!   Some breeds grow really big!  Especially in the shelter or all-breed rescue programs, they may not always know what the "mix breed" really is.  So don't be surprised your cute and cuddly little puppy grows up to be a very big dog! 

Average Life Span  -- no matter how long we have our dogs, it's never long enough.  But some dogs will have a very long lifespan of 10-15 years.... or more!   Getting a dog today, means you're preparing to love and care for him for his life.

Does your home and family "fit" the dog's needs.  When choosing a dog in a rescue foster program, they can guide you to a dog that will be best matched to your family and the needs of the dog.   It may not be the one you found the most striking in his profile picture.   Some dogs in rescue will have issues with kids, with cats, or with medical issues.   The application process is designed to do match-making!   So please don't be offended when they direct you to a dog that seems better suited to your family, than the dog that was the most flashy or cute in his pictures.   

What happens if:    You get married, have a baby or move , get divorced.   These are NOT reasons to give your dog to the shelter or rescue!   As you think about adding a furry friend to your family -- prepare him right now, and every day forward to be a healthy, well-balanced dog that can transition with your life changes.  What happens if you lose your job?  What happens if you become sick and physically unable to care for your dog- do you have a plan for care for your dog?   Will he be trained well enough for someone else to handle or to cope with changes in his life.



Chances are if you take him to the shelter for any of the above issues -- he will never make it out.  It's just the facts.  So make your decision today with the end in mind,and think about the future.

If it's not a commitment for life, consider fostering instead.   Even then, fostering should be a commitment until adopted.   If you can't do that --  get a pet rock.

The K9 Coach offers pet selection assistance, temperament testing, shelter/rescue evaluations, pack introduction assistance, 1st time Dog Owner Consultations, and more.   

Dana Brigman
The K9 Coach
Dog Training - Matthews, NC
980-339-8064
www.thek9-coach.com
info@thek9-coach.com

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March 03, 2014

8 Good Reasons to Use A Leash Indoors

Reasons to Use A Leash Indoors

Nearly every single week, someone asks me "You mean, I should have him on the leash in the house?"  And my answer is:  "Yes!"

Not all the time, of course, but when you are doing some training activities and/or trying to solve a behavioral problems.

House Training:  if you are relaxing with a good book or a movie and don't want Fluffy to sneak around to the dining room to for a potty break, simply tether the leash to your belt, loop it over your foot, etc.  That way when he gets up to leave the room, you'll know and will be able to direct him/her outside for successful potty training.   

Basic Obedience:   Fluffy may decide he really doesn't "want" to practice his training right now and scurry off to play with his toys.   With a leash on, you control the follow-through on the training interval and skills he needs to perform.

Greeting Visitors:  if you know company is coming over, or it's time for the delivery guy, or it's trash pick up day -- go ahead and leash Fluffy up to practice a good sit/stay while that activity occurs.   If he's holding a good sit/stay and getting a nice reward/praise for doing so -- he's learning to perform a behavior you want him to repeat in this scenario in the future.

Impulse Control:  If Fluffy is known to chase the cat, your kid or your other dog, every time the they stroll through the room, using a leash to prevent the chase and redirecting him to other activities like  "Place"  or holding a down/stay helps to break that habit.   It give him the ability to make the decision.  If he bolts off the couch he still can't reach the cat, and you get a chance to redirect his work.   And if he makes the right decision to stay put -- you praise and reward lavishly!  Teaching him it's better to stay calm and cool :-)

Door Bolting:  if you have a dog with a very high chase/prey drive, they can often get amped up just at the thought of going outside.   And they charge out with crazy levels of excitement.   This is dangerous if they do this out a door to an unfenced area.    I recommend teaching all dogs to sit and wait at street-side doors, but I also do control exits even to fenced areas for dogs with a high chase/prey drive.  The need to learn to go outside calmly.



"Get off my couch!" -- many dogs coming into rescue programs may never have been in a house, ever!   So getting them familiar with the rules of the house is important.   They may jump on the couch, even though you don't want them there.  Reaching for the collar can be dangerous if the dog doesn't trust you yet, but a leash can offer you a way to navigate them away from your furniture and redirect to other more appropriate places for them to relax.  

"Get off my counters!" -  much like the above scenario, many dogs like to jump up to see what you have on the kitchen counter.   Having him on leash, again, gives you a way to navigate his feet off the counters without having to reach for the collar and then redirect him to a 4 on the floor position for praise (no treats from the counters -- ever!)

Learning to wear a leash -- many dogs and puppies who have never had the weight of a leash around their neck may suddenly act like they are frozen when you put the leash on them.   Supervise so they don't get tangled up or chew on it -- but let them drag the leash around the house throughout the day/evening.   Let them eat with it on, take a nap, etc.   If they freeze up, let them experience that a little bit -- move across the room and encourage them to come get a treat, play with a toy, etc.  The usually forget it's on, and start moving.  Thought it may take a while.   Once they realize the leash is not so scary after all, they get unfrozen and just go with it :-)

There are many other reason to consider using a leash indoors for your training needs.   Remember to always supervise so that they don't get tangled up or start to chew your best leather leash.

Feel free to share your ideas with us!


Video:  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6x704h9ZowI&feature=share&list=UUEZ97UUU_W0dqRCzYZBikTA&index=1


The K9 Coach | Dog Training Matthews NC | Dog Trainer | Obedience | Behavior Modification | Puppy | Aggression | Anxiety


Dana Brigman
The K9 Coach
Dog Training - Matthews, NC
980-339-8064
www.thek9-coach.com
info@thek9-coach.com

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