The Fearful Dog: Encourage Bravery Don't Nurture Fear

You have a direct influence on how your dog responds to fear. It takes a little tough love, a little controlled pressure, and patience.

We know this to be true of dogs trying to survive on their own:

• Given access to food and water, the dog will not starve himself.
• Dogs can go for several days without water.   They can go for a couple of weeks without food!   I had a dog that went for several days without evening peeing -- even though she went outside on schedule everyday.  She was too fearful to do it on leash and with me around. Once she learned she had no other options, she started to learn to trust based on experience.
• A dog will work out how to get food  and water  and shelter -- it make take a few attempts but when no humans are involved and dog is own it's own, he will become brave enough to enter into a building, knock over something that makes a clatter, or work his way across a stream or pond, etc if it means access to food, shelter or safety. 
• Dogs will problem solve and develop confidence -- which is why it's essential to guide them to develop confidence in the behaviors we want to see.
• High Value Food rewards significantly influence behavior mod when used to reward good behaviors.   Use freely for the right behavior and to motivate to try new behaviors.

  

  Vika

Sometimes our fears are irrational.  Sometimes fears are based on the unknown or something someone told us.   And sometimes they are based on a past experiences.

I have an irrational fear of snakes.   I don't even want to see one.  You can tell me it's not dangerous all you want.   But I still am afraid.   I'll turn my head even when they are on TV.   Why?  I have no idea really.  I have always been afraid of them.   So the other day when out walking through a nature trail you can imagine my distress when we came across a snake laying across the path.   Had someone else not told me it was a snake, I would have though it was a fallen limb.   It was about 6 feet long and maybe 4 or 5 inches in diameter.   Which is HUGE in my opinion.

I had a choice.  Turn around an make may way back the way we came or go forward, passing the snake.  Turning around meant a much longer walk and a delay in getting to resources -- namely my car with A/C, lunch, and a shower.   Or I could take a brave step forward, passing the snake and be on our way.

My skin crawled with cold chills.   I'm sure without measuring it, my heart rate sped up, my blood pressure increased, my knees shook.   All involuntary responses -- even though my brain understood it should be OK, there was a benefit to taking the shorter route, and my friend was encouraging me and trying to talk me through it.   None of that mattered in that moment.   I needed to take the step forward all by myself.

Such is how it goes with dogs.  When they are afraid, you have to understand it's not voluntary and no amount of you encouraging them changes their level of anxiety.  The only thing that begins to modify their response is to take a brave step forward on their own, letting the brain do the work and process what happens (or doesn't happen).

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Shelter life is a prison for dogs.  It's stressful, scary, and confusing.  Some are on death row and will never make it out.   Some are afraid and withdrawn in the cage.   Others shut down.  Others bark and cry, confused as to why they are there and not living the life they once new -- even if that life was not one of a happy home.   It's hell for every dog in there.   And they respond in different ways.  Given that they are masters of reading energy, they KNOW this place is not good.  

Whether its abuse, trauma, lack of early developmental support, or simply being completely overwhelmed by the shelter or loss of the only way of life they have ever known, and now having to interact with strangers or dogs they have never experienced -- it can be too much for some dogs.  It can mess up an otherwise perfectly happy and healthy dog, so imagine what it can do to one that is already off-balance.

Fear shows up in a number of ways.   Retreat and hide and just pray we'll all leave them alone.   Bark and growl in the hopes we'll leave them alone.  Pressed far enough, a bite may occur in the hopes you will just leave them alone.   These dogs don't want to bite -- but sometimes they know no other way to communicate if you're missing all the other signs to please just give them some space.

So leave them alone!  Seriously.   Give them some space for the first few days.  Let them breathe and settle down.

When you have saved a dog from the shelter or brought home a dog that becomes very shy or fearful, seriously, leave the dog alone for a few days.  What they need from you is access to food, water and a potty break.   He does not need to be smothered with affection right way.

There's plenty of time for nurturing.  But you only get once chance to make a first impression.  You you can't undo a bite.   And it takes even longer to establish a good relationship once it has gone south.

So what do you do with a dog that is fearful.    Become patient and nurture bravery.

By now you know, I'm a firm believe in a slow introduction into the home, other dogs and humans.   Slower than you think is necessary.   Much slower.

So put the dog in the crate when you get them home, and leave them alone until time to go potty.   Pretend the dog is in boarding at a really nice doggie hotel for some r&r.     (Note depending on the level of fear or anxiety -- I might even pull the car into the garage and close the door before I let the dog out to be sure he's not going to slip his leash or bolt past me).

• Give him a cocktail:  Rescue Remedy™ or Fresh Start from Blackwing Farms that can be added to food or water.   Chamomile Tea in their water.
• Make his room smell divine:  put some lavender on his collar and bedding.  
• Let him take a nap:   he will take in a ton of information about your home just by observation and his sense of smell.
• Schedule a nice leisurely walk:   get yourself a Mendota-style leash so that you don't have to even worry with clips and collars and just loop him up for a walk.  No training needs to take place, just go mill around the yard and let him do his potty business.    He doesn't even need off leash time at this point because he may jump the fence or hide in the shrub.
• The first night Sara was here it took hours to catch her after she came out of the car.  (We pulled the car into the fenced yard and opened the hatch.  From then own she was tethered to me on a 10 ft line every time she came out of the crate.   It took about 2 weeks for her to actually approach me on her own, even though she was tethered to me.
• Order Room Service:    Feed him his dinner in his crate.  If he eats great, if not that's ok too.  We'll worry about more structured feeding in a few days.
• Get a good nights rest:   Well, we hope so
• Rinse and Repeat the Spa treatment for a couple of days.

I do this at least the first 2-3 days... maybe longer.    Right now it's about establishing a relationship with me.  I'm the provider of all resources.  I provide food, water, potty breaks and a safe place to rest and observe.  I am in control of life at this point.   Yes, it sounds tough.   Tough love is needed to get the dog to consider me his leader and to need me.

Then what?

There are no hard and fast rules.   It's important to remember that there never really are hard rules in dog training -- even though some basic premises will achieve the biggest results.   This is really more about figuring out the best way forward to create trust and success case by case  -- but here are a few things to keep in mind.

Assuming the dog has some fear of humans and/or environments:

• Don't manhandle them.  It's not really the time to pick up small dogs and carry them around or snuggle with them on the couch .   Now is not the time to force/shove them in crates.  Bribe them with food!  Nothing wrong with a little enticement being tossed to the back of the every single time.  Feed them with their food bowl at the back of the crate and wait for them to go in.  Each time the go over the threshold, use the word "crate" and praise.  
• This is often a trigger for growling and snapping -- or even biting.   
• Get yourself a slip lead. Avoid having to put on a collar or clip a leash that you have to fuss with getting attached to go potty.    Every foster home, transporter and new adopter needs a goo quality slip lead. 
• This is often a trigger for growling and snapping -- or even biting. 
• Where the dog eats can help address environmental fears.  If the dog is reluctant to come "OUT" Of the crate -- you may have to start feeding them just outside the crate.   Start just outside the door to start and progressively moving it further into the room.  Many dogs are afraid to eat around another dog or person.   Build up the challenge of staying in the room with them, or moving by them while they eat. etc.
• Initially, I let Vika eat alone in her crate.  Then she was required to eat outside her crate, then in the kitchen alone, and now the only way she eats is with me and/or other dogs nearby.   If she wants to eat, she has to trust our presence.  Vika still leaves her bowl every single time I or one of the other dogs passes her by when she eats.  It's been almost 6 months. She comes back to finish, but she's not yet brave enough to not give up her bowl.
• If the dog is reluctant to pass you in doorways -- give them plenty of space early on.   Open the door and walk away letting them come in or out as they build confidence to do so.  Leave the room if you have too.  You may need to have some extra time in the schedule to avoid getting frustrated.    Tethering also works really well for a few days for dogs that are really reluctant to come inside.
• Vika often made multiple attempts to come through the door.  She would back up, run back outside, and then finally dart through the door.  As time progressed, I required her to come past me on the porch to get outside, and eventually standing in the doorway myself.  She sometimes still makes a loop before coming in.
• Each time she "comes" in the house, I applied the command and praise even though to help her associate the words with the motion and experience.  

• Create a plan for socialization with strangers.   Only after YOU have a relationship with the dog should you attempt to introduce them to other people.  They will probably not want to greet strangers.   That's OK.  Don't force it.   Sit quietly with someone nearby.   The first few times, the dog may hide behind you.  The goal is to let them approach people.   When you notice them smelling, looking up, inching forward -- reward!   People can offer some chicken yumminess even if the dog doesn't take it from them.   Keep going to where strangers are, even if it's just a few minutes at time.   Keep other people very calm and without quick movements.
• Forced petting or forced approaches are often triggers for growling and snapping -- or even biting.   Give them space, there is nothing on the planet that says they have to warm up to strangers immediately.
• Don't be their shield.  If they are hiding behind your legs, keep stepping aside to expose them.  Over and over if necessary.   If you have taught them to sit -- require them to sit, even if just or a moment or two.
• Don't stay too long in a stressful environment.   A few minutes is enough.   Overwhelming the dog will have adverse affects.   Teach them by early departures that you handle the situations and they will get relief!
• Petco, or Dog Parks with a fearful dog is not a great idea until they learn to trust you and you can walk them on a leash with some success.   When you do go, choose non-busy times and very short trips.   The first few times you might not even make in the front door -- that's OK.
• I once had a client that it took several trips before they could even walk down the parking lot.  The dog was fearful getting out of the car -- so we circled the car, got back in and drove away.   Multiple times, multiple days.... and eventually we built enough confidence to walk down the parking lot..... then in time we could go shopping.   But it took patience and support.
• Don't coddle (Pet or verbally soothe) a fearful dog... let them be present in the moment and don't reinforce the negative behavior.
• If they afraid to go outside -- start feeding them outside.  That would become the only place the dog got any food rewards.
• Afraid to ride in the car -- see:  Riding in Cars with Dogs

There are many fear based issues.   More often than not, we humans, especially moms, want to nurture and soothe the fears away.   With dogs, it just doesn't quite work that way.  We have to let them work through the issues and solve the problem.   In many cases, it's just a matter of not given them other choices, with some safeguards and guidance in place.

Remember -- reward each brave step forward.  Even if that step is to not retreat, or to hold their head up instead of down.

You will do more to influence overcoming fear if you let the dog do the work and you create the next challenge in a very controlled way.

Dana Brigman
The K9 Coach
Dog Training - Matthews, NC
980-339-8064
www.thek9-coach.com
info@thek9-coach.com

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My Dog Is A Decision Maker

My Dog Is A Decision Maker

Dogs make decisions.

Your dog thinks and makes choices every day.    I'm watching mine now as one sleeps in his favorite chair.  I don't know what makes it his favorite spot, but it is.  Another is watching birds from the back steps.   He's choosing to do this, at this time.  He could be sleeping, chewing a bone, or playing with one of the other dogs, but right now he's just watching the birds.  He seems to be content enjoying the afternoon.   Another is laying in the sun.  It's hot.   Why she has chosen to lay in the sun rather than the shade is entirely her decision.   She won't stay long, and I know in a few minutes she'll get up and come to the shade with the rest of us.   They have all made choices about how to spend their afternoon.

Dogs Problem Solve

When I give my doxies a new food puzzle the literally work it out in their little minds how to get the food out.  It's trial and error.  It might take a while, they might even get frustrated the first time or two, but they solve the issue and get the reward. 

When Vinnie is out and I make him "place" on some new object -- like a rock or park bench -- or walk across a little bridge on the walking trails he has to figure out how to get there.   He knows what "Place" means, he has learned to trust me, and he works it out with motivation and encouragement from me.

A Lesson from The Stray Dogs

Dogs who have been stray have mastered their skills of finding food and water.  They make the decision about where to sleep, when to sleep and how to get access to food and water.  When food and water are present, they will figure out how to survive.    We know they are capable of learning.

When they move into our social world, the skills they need to have to succeed in our homes and environment may be radically different that the skills they learned instinctively or under abusive conditions.

The point is dogs make choices, decisions, and they learn.



When we teach them new skills, like how to focus on their handler under distractions, they can learn to make the decision to "watch" you when it matters and to hold simple commands.   They can make the decision do something other than bark and lunge at other dogs on their walk.   They can make a decision to walk away from a bone or not be growly at strangers.

They can only make these better decisions if they have alternative skills in their toolbox.

When we teach new skills during training classes, we teach them what to do, how to do it and when to do it.    We teach you timing techniques and learning to read your dogs body language.

As the learn, we have to give the dog a few seconds to think and make a decision to perform that skill before we apply any tension or navigation to their leash.   Avoid using your leash as a brake or a tug to get started on your walk.   Just give the command/signal.  We can show you the proper time to apply gentle tension to the leash, but it's not for the command itself.

We want them to learn to make these choices even when there is no leash at all.

Through guided learning, let your dog solve problems and think.

Dana Brigman
The K9 Coach
Dog Training - Matthews, NC
980-339-8064
www.thek9-coach.com
info@thek9-coach.com

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Train Your Dog Like You Train an Athlete. Practice Often.

Train Your Dog Like You Train an Athlete.   Practice Often.  Before The Big Game.

Use your words. 
Use your hand signals. 
Use your training.

We want you to have a very clear communication method with your dog. It is a consistent word choice. Consistent hand signal / body language. And very clear expectations of what to do when "x" happens.

We teach you how to achieve that.

For dogs that have a history of fear aggression, resource guarding, or other behavioral issues -- this is critical. You must you practice it many times when distractions are low. Then, when the stakes are high, you are simply asking something of him he has done many times before and knows how to be successful.


Do what you're both trained to do and give him a command for "off". It takes time to create of course. It truly is training and practice much like an athlete. Practice often and just because even when you are no long having problems. 
 
When you do anything other than what you have trained for, it may be confusing to your dog. Confusion can lead to frustration which can lead to him communicating with you by growling, snapping, or even biting in extreme moments.

This can be applied to many scenarios that will help prevent your dog from "guarding". Teach what to do and how to be successful - -then use that teaching when the stakes are high and don't panic.

Example: your dog guards the couch. You've taught him not to be on the couch. A few weeks later you find him up on the couch. Your first reaction cannot be to physically remove him by reaching for his collar or shooing him off by poking his butt or sitting on him.

This can be the same for him having a kids toy he shouldn't have -- don't pry it out of his mouth, use the command you taught for drop it.

YOU have to be consistent to and can't expect him to perform well if you change the expectation and start physically manipulating him to move or give up some object.

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Start training your dog for basic skills (whether he has issues or not) as soon as you bring him home!
Basic life skills include Sit/Stay, Come When Called, Drop It, Leave It and Watch me. 

If you have not yet trained him and see a new guarding behavior redirect him to some other item of value (treat, toy, etc) -- in the heat of the moment just get him out of the aggression mindset -- we can begin training later, but we can't undo snapping and biting. 



(And that my friends is an early bite-prevention tip)

Dana Brigman
The K9 Coach
Dog Training - Matthews, NC
980-339-8064
www.thek9-coach.com
info@thek9-coach.com

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First Aid Kit For Your Dog

First Aid Kit For Your Dog

 

 

Seconds matter in an emergency.  There is no time to scramble for emergency items in a crisis.   If you don't yet have a first aid kit for your dog -- consider putting one together.

While nothing replaces your veterinarian, some things can be treated at home, and other treatments may help buy you time to get to the vet.

You may want to consider keeping this in your CAR if you travel with your pet often for park outings, events, and other activities.   

• Benedryl  -- 1mg per pound of weight for allergic reactions.   

• Melatonin -- 1mg per 30-35 pounds for stress / anxiety

• Peroxide to induce vomiting

• Gas X   (especially for dogs prone to bloat)

• Eye Wash 

• Saline 

• Triple Antibiotic ointment for minor wounds

• Hydro cortisone Cream

• Rubbing Alcohol

• Pepto Bismol

• Gauze

• Sterile / Non-adhesive Pads

• Vet Wrap / Self-adhering medical wrap

• Ace Bandages

• Gloves 

• Hand Sanitizer

• Scissors

• Tweezers

• Muzzle

• Kennel Lead  (can be used as emergency muzzle if necessary)

• Hemostats

• Rectal thermometer

• Ice Pack

• Water Bottle

• Splint   (old paper towel roll?)

• Tongue Depressors

• Blanket

• Zippy bags

• Plastic Poop Bags 

• CPR Guide:

Created by:  American Red Cross

• Vet Records - easily accessed including the dog's health record, medications, local and national poison control numbers, regular veterinary clinic hours and telephone numbers, and emergency clinic hours and telephone number. 

• A list of your dogs medications and dosages

Phone Numbers:
Vet

Emergency Vet

Poison Control ---  888-426-4435

Take a look at the online app from American Red Cross for your phone
http://www.redcross.org/mobile-apps/pet-first-aid-app 


Dana Brigman
The K9 Coach
Dog Training - Matthews, NC
980-339-8064
www.thek9-coach.com
info@thek9-coach.com

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Dog Training Summary: Anna Leash Panic

Dog Training Summary:   Anna Leash Panic

Anna (approx 3 year old Pit Mix) was adopted last year by a great family.   They called with an original issue of a reactive dog on leash and wanting to achieve the ability of their 11 year old daughter being able to leash walk her.

Anna was adopted from a local rescue group.  The foster had not seen any reactive issues in her behavior and had mentioned even having her in a group obedience class.     

It was believed that Anna may have been chained outside with puppies that she had to defend from other dogs.  

We did a 6 week series focused on obedience work and behavior modification for the leash reactivity.  Anna's reaction was not really one of aggression -- there was no growl and really not even a bark.  Rather it was a crazy shrill sound with an intense fixation on the other dog.  She clearly had a very emotional reaction at other dogs when she walked through the neighborhood or when they tried to go to pet stores.

We made significant improvement in 6 short weeks and the family opted to continue efforts on their own.

I didn't hear from them for almost a year.

The call came about a month ago that Anna had attacked the neighbors dogs.  Apparently she had escaped the house through a door that was not secured properly while the family was not at home.  They wanted intense board and train to evaluate, training and rehab this issue.

What I now know about that day was the neighbors had been out in their front yard on a beautiful spring day with their dogs playing in the yard.   Apparently for quite some time Anna worked herself into a frenzy seeing them out there, and once she got the door open charged over.   The neighbors, thankfully were able to prevent a significant incident and no one was harmed   (This is actually kind of a clue to Anna's issue and her evaluation)

Anna had made a couple of doggie friends -- and could relax around them at a local cafe or take a walk with them.   But, if she was sitting on her families balcony, she might get stimulated at some of the passersby.   She also escalated when certain dogs ran past her. 

So a few days later Anna moved in with me for a planned 2-3 weeks.

Following standard protocol here, she was separated from my pack initially, and our first day together was spent with a nice long walk, and some playing ball time.

The very first morning here -- Anna found a bunny in the yard and gave a relentless chase through the yard, until the bunny found his escape route.  She chased, but was not barking or growling.   Just running.

This led me to give consideration to what we're dealing with was more a a very high prey/chase drive than aggression. 

The first few days here was ta very strict tune-up on her obedience and learning to do an emergency U-Turn  (Uh -oh  let's go!).   She was pretty good, but we did a fair amount of distance work, distraction work, and then some play each day.  Our goal s not about walking through the neighborhood yet.  I wanted a solid obedience foundation in place first and for her to have a relationship of trust with me.

I embraced her chase drive and played a lot of ball with her and let her chase toys.   (Flirt poles are great options for chasing "prey" and the Chuck-It is awesome for throwing the ball)

After about 3 days her, I introduced Anna to Lexie.   No issues.     I decided to then try Vika -- another young Pit who absolutely loved to play with everyone.   Anna was a bit to much for her.    Anna actually did try to play.  She did many of the behaviors you'd want to see in a playful dog like turning her backside to Vika, stepping back from the play for a pause, etc.    But -- every time she does go into to play she goes for the neck.   Not just a good game of bite-face, and not biting Vika at all, just VERY rough.   She would run and run and run through the yard.

At this point Anna got moved from the front room of my house to the main living space.   In the front room she was crated and behind another x-pen used as a barrier that gave visual line of sight, but where no one could get directly nose to nose with her crate,   Now she's exposed directly to everyone, but no contact.

I'm still not letting her outside with the Weenie Dogs since I'm still not entirely sure about her prey/chase drive, and they run through the yard like rabbits :-)

A day or so later she met Vinnie outside with no issues.  

And then we met the weenie dogs -- and NADA.  No reaction to them at all.  In fact, the weenies are known to very clearly say "get outta my face!" to another dog, and she respected that.

Anna's issue is not aggression.

During this time I have also noticed that Anna is highly excitable.  And I do mean HIGHLY!

She gets  persistent about licking me when she wants attention if I was sitting down.  If I was standing she'd like my feet or jump up on me, even mouthing my hands.    She would FLY out the back door when you let her out - -which by the way I stopped as soon as I expected prey/chase drive, because it's important to control how outings begin.  If she's goes out over stimulated it's much less likely to get her back down -- if she goes out calm we have better control.

Anna was a bit dramatic in her crate.   Not crate anxiety, because she was fine if I wasn't home.   But if she was crated and I was here, including after she had completed her meal, she would have a bit of a hissy.  That was ignored and with requiring her to calm down before getting out -- she quickly got the message that there is no drama permitted and it doesn't work anyway.

Anna was required to manage impulse control everywhere.   Coming out of her crate, exiting the house, exiting the car, waiting on her meal, waiting for the ball to be thrown, waiting while other dogs walked past her, etc.   We practiced place and down stays daily while other dogs ran in the yard and played.  

Towards the end of that first week, we went to Petco and Petsmart in the same day!  I went at a time of day that it would not likely be crowded, but that might have some exposure to other dogs.  She did really well, but definitely had some escalations.   Our focus was on our obedience work -- though nothing harder than heel and sit.     Watch me is essential as well.


The next day we went to the park for our first outing.   We went at a very time when it was not overly busy and had a good walk.   It was introducing to the environment more than other dogs.  She did well, a few minor escalations, but nothing crazy.

At this point it's about creating consistency in her expectations of my behavior, what I expect of her, and sticking with simple obedience.  Sit, Heel and Watch Me.  Nothing More is necessary.

Anna road with me to a few client appointments.   On one particular outing she had a very difficult time in the car.   Unfortunately I arrived a little early to get her settled, but the owner came outside with her dog before I was ready!   I had really hoped to get Anna settled and go knock on their door and set it up.  But they were already there.

Welcome to the real world.  You cannot control everything.

We went to walk just about every day.  I had a friend meet me with her dog to take a walk with us, and no reaction.  Shocked even me!  We had a  great walk.  We were able to watch ducks and geese with really no escalation at all!   The only thing that set her off that day was someone ran past us.   Sticking with her skills, we got it under control and moved on in just a few seconds.     She stayed a little amped up, and escalated again a little later, but we moved through that one too, with consistency.   At this point we can't hide from the triggers, we have to deal with them in the same way every time.

After about a week, Anna was moved into my room at night in an x-pen.   I wanted to see what her response would be while other dogs moved around her and she wasn't crated.    She still had her crate for the day along with everyone else, but at night when we're watching TV and for sleeping, I upgraded her to have some more room and just simply be being the partition.   She relaxed and slept well. 

As Anna's confidence grew I increased the challenge.   We went to the Dog Park.   Not to go in, but to be at a place I knew we'd see more dogs in motion.  It was a great outing.  She saw many dogs in the fenced are with no escalation.   It was a great walk until a JA (figure it out) with an off-leash dog came charging towards me and Anna.  He even had the nerve to ask me if it was my dog making all that drama -- I told him no - his dog caused it by charging towards us and by him not having any ability to verbally recall his dog. Thankfully there was no incident, just anxiety for her. 

Nice -- it's supposed to be a leashed area -- what a setback.  But, again, welcome to the real world.   She had another really crappy experience seeing another dog a few minutes later.   But we ended on a good note with a different dog and went home.   I was determined to end positive -- but sometimes you have to cut your losses and take a break to try another day.

It was about a week and a half and she was fully integrated into the pack of 5 other dogs for not only hanging out in the house, but going potty outside with everyone else.   She respected the weenies and never pressed her boundaries with them.   She tried to play with Vika, but still a bit too rough and when Vika said enough, she backed off.

We went to walk every day.  They weren't all perfect, but they were all good and saw signs of improvement.  She walked with Vinnie or Vika side by side with no issues,  My friend brought another of her dogs and no issues at all.  If fact, in some ways the pack walks helped her stay in the zone.

At the end of two weeks I had planned to take Anna to one of my classes and pack walk and her parents were coming to observe.

It was a mistake -- a big one.

1)   She was so excited to see her parents even though they had come to my house first,   It was a lot of excitement.
2)  The park was CRAZY busy on a beautiful Sunday.  It was too stimulating and Anna lost her <beep>

After about 15 minutes of not being able to calm, her I loaded her in the car to take her back home, but I needed to wait on a client to let them know we were all leaving :)   Her family went ahead and left.

We worked with Anna a bit trying to calm her down -- it didn't work well.   So I actually got her back out of the car, moved her out towards the woods and back of the fields at the park, and we had an escalation free walk!

We decided to extend Anna's training for another week and half.   For a total of 3 and half weeks. At this point, I decided to contact a holistic product company I had met at a trainers conference.   They may floral essence blends customized to specific problems.   You might think it's hokey-- but it was worth a try.  I mean I had nothing to lose and everything to gain.

So we continued our work -- every day.   Our new products came and we kept working.  Park walks about 6 of 7 days.  With great improvement, including walks on the green-way.   They weren't all perfect.  There were a few outbursts, but they got fewer, shorter and less intense.   We'd even start walking with or behind a dog that had caused her to escalate.

We practiced obedience skills, impulse control and even sat in the car and watched dogs walk past us.  We went to the pet stores again.  

I was super pleased with where we left off and sent Anna home to her family with strict instructions to not take her for a walk for 3 days -- until I could be there with them to train them!

We went Saturday afternoon for a long walk in their neighborhood and saw many dogs.   Anna would sit and observe with no escalation -- observation is good, interest is ok.  When she made the choice to look away from the other dogs, we walked on.  If she showed no real interest, we kept walking.

We kept it to Sit, Heel and Watch Me.  And many times if there was a "safe" zone we'd give her full length of the leash to have a nice leisurely walk without being in a command.   Walks have to become enjoyable and relaxed.   They cannot be 100% work.

 It was a beautiful walk.  Until neighbors had 2 off leash dogs.  Crap!  What went wrong was two things

1)  The neighbors started yelling at their dogs who were still in their yard and creating a big drama
2)  Anna's dad got nervous and tense too (Can you blame him?)

I honestly think if everyone had kept cool, and just had Anna retreat in a u-turn heel we would have avoided the escalation altogether.   It will come with practice and repetition and confidence :)

I'll go back next week, but they are off to a great start and Anna is healing.

The family is guided to:

• Be very strict on obedience right now.   Daily and for a very long time.   Until the escalations are diminished and everyone is more relaxed together.
• Play Daily --  Fetch, Toys, anything that stimulates her prey/chase drive and gives her both mental and physical activities.  
• Manage Impulse control -- no exits from doors, crates, etc that don't start calmly.  Don't allow licking.  Don't allow crate drama.  
• Practice down stays by the front door (with it open).  Down stays in the yard with reward.   Place while they do other activities around her.
• Clear differentials between play and time to be obedient.
• Walks are prescriptive in what to do when they go past another dog and holding her accountable to her obedience commands (heel, sit, watch me)  Nothing more!   Take play breaks on the walk in "safe zones" where there are no houses or other dogs nearby at the time. 
• High value treats for a job well done and focus on the handler not the other dog
• Reward good decisions - like looking away from and ignoring other dogs and especially for relaxation and focus on them.
• Pack walks with well-balanced neighbors dogs.  Not dogs with excitable energy.
• And to relax!  Expect a good walk.  Create a good walk.  

I have a few Anna Videos on Youtube


Please know that EVERY case is different.  Though there are many similarities in symptoms and many common steps to resolutions -- it is critical to be sure that you are solving the right problem with the right techniques.   Errors in judgment or diagnosis can make matters worse or even become dangerous to yourself, others or the dog.   Seek Professional Assistance before trying techniques on your own.

Dana Brigman
The K9 Coach
Dog Training - Matthews, NC
980-339-8064
www.thek9-coach.com
info@thek9-coach.com

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