January 28, 2013

New Dog Introductions

New Dog Introductions

There is absolutely NO REASON to rush dog to dog introductions or integration into your home.  You have nothing but time to get it right.   When it get it wrong, it's even more difficult to over come.   

Take your time.

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A dog just pulled from the shelter or dropped off by their owner is in a state of confusion.   Even without visible behaviors, they are very likely to be highly stressed.  They may be fearful.  Every dog has the potential to be reactive.   They may not trust you fully – assume that they don’t.   

It’s important to keep some basic training thoughts in mind when you bring in a new dog to your home.  Rescue dogs are not perfect – they are being re-homed because they have issues of some sort.  In some cases it's simply a lack of basic training.   Assume they have had no leadership.  If they had -- chances are they wouldn't be with you today.

Some dogs will be effortless to fit in your family, while others may be more of a challenge.  You are doing an in-home evaluation of the unknown.  Their behavior at the shelter may not be what you experience.   Their behavior day 1 may not be the same as some point in the future when the honeymoon is over.   

Your own dogs may also respond in ways you have not predicted depending on their level of training, the energy of your pack and the energy presented by the new dog, and how you respond to it all.   You must assume the role of leader.   Period.  
Foster programs not only provides love, shelter and medical care for a rescued Dane;  the foster will need to  provide some basic training, discipline and boundaries..  We may or may not know the truth of their previous background.   It’s up to you to manage introductions, start training, and above all keep everyone in your home safe.

We all want to love these rescues and give them a better life.  Spoiling them rotten or letting them get away with everything because they have never been loved will NOT help these dogs.    You will show your love for them more if you create boundaries and discipline along with lots of TLC as you prepare them for a new home.  

The things you do beginning Day 1, will create the foundation for success.  You have to create the bond of trust & authority (this is not about dominance).  If new issues begin to arise, the sooner you address them the better.  If you are uncertain about a behavior – please seek assistance.  

Be patient and realize training and evaluations take time & effort. Puppies can more quickly overcome poor manners, but an adult dog might actually take many months of training, reconditioning & positive reinforcement to master these skills, and much of the success will depend on you as the handler and the environment you create.  Every positive experience you create for them today, and every negative one you prevent helps set them up for success.
Now, get out the treats and start rewarding all the positive things you want to reinforce and keep him doing.  And correct the issues that are not acceptable.  


Some *Suggestions* from The K9 Coach Include:

Phase I -- at least 48 hours
  • Transitions are hard on dogs.   Bringing a new dog into your home also be difficult on your own dog.    Have a quiet place for your new foster to rest and relax on their own.   Preferably this is a crate, x-pen or behind a baby gate.  You want them to be able to see you and your family/pack, but not to interact directly.
    • Correct any negative responses from your foster or your pack.  A water bottle can work wonders.
    • Feed them in their crate.
  • Consider a relaxation cocktail:     Chamomile tea,  Rescue Remedy, Meletonin, and Lavender Oils for their bedding, collar, etc.  
  • Interact with them only to provide food, water, and take for a walk to potty several times, and ideally a long walk to just be present with them.   His potty breaks outdoors should be without the other dogs.  


Phase II -- at least 48 hours
  • Introduce them to your pack slowly one at a time and on neutral turf such as the front yard with everyone on leash. Don't just open the front door or the fence gate and let the go. This may take you a few days to manage introductions & have safe boundaries for everyone to sniff and smell before they greet directly.
  • Watch for and learn the signals the dog is giving you -- and he will in most cases give you an indication of his stress, fear, or attitude. Knowing those signals can help you solve many problems before they escalate. And remember, not all indicators are bad. In fact, it's better to be warned, than not be warned at all and a fight or bite occurs.    What is their response to each other?   Play?  Cautious?   Fear?   Aggression?   These answers will dictate the steps you need to take moving forward and determine your pace.    Review Dog Body Language Signals Here
  • Go for a long walk with just you and the foster.   It’s important that they learn to trust you and you learn to read them before a full integration in your pack. 

Phase III
  • Begin to take time each day to do some basic training. 10 - 15 minutes a few times a day goes a long way.  Work with a leash and lots of treats on Sit, Come, Heel and Wait (for doors, food etc). Down is much harder and often stressful for the dog, so get the others mastered first even if it takes you several weeks to master them one at a time. A dog with trust issues or fear may be much harder to teach -- so go slower with these dogs.
  • Consider some quiet time each day in their crate/x-pen, with time to come out and play/train with you. Play can be training too. Have time that your own dogs are out with you alone without the new foster/adoptee. Just take it slow and give everyone some time and attention to acclimate.
  • Always be careful reaching for their collar as a correction, or to move them from the couch (which he shouldn't be on yet anyway). Consider a leash vs direct hand to collar corrections until you are confident in his behavior.  Remember – when he gives you the behavior you do want – give a small treat and lots praise.  Over time phase out the treats and emphasize the praise and physical touch!   Treats should be used only randomly over time. 
  • It is as important to train children (and some adults) about respecting the dog, his personal space, his resources (toys & food), his size, etc as it is for you to train the dog about respecting the kids.   Visitors may not be as savvy as your own family, so never leave them unsupervised.   If necessary, put the Dane in his crate during play-dates.  Use This Document as a Teaching tool for your Kids  (Other documents are also in this location)

Phase IV

  • When you do give them time out of the crate in the house,  supervise at all times.  Consider having them drag a leash behind them in case you need to correct them.
  • Don't let them on the furniture right away. They may begin to guard it and you. Give them a nice cozy, safe place of their own.  If they are guarding you or the kids, from others – a sharp correction, and temporary removal from the presence of the person or thing he’s guarding is a good start.  Note:  Dogs who have a tendency to display aggression should NEVER be allowed on the furniture or bed. 
  • Begin early teaching that food from the table or during meal preparation is not going to happen. It just reinforces counter surfing and begging. Send them to their "place" or crate during meal times. Once they are more trustworthy, begin setting boundaries to keep them out of the kitchen or dining room during meal time. This may also mean the kids can't eat on the coffee table, unless he's very well trained to stay in place while they eat.
  • Avoid allowing resource guarding -- teach them to wait for their food, and do some hand-feeding. If you feel comfortable, see if you can remove the bowl and give them something of greater value while you do so. He's not going to understand if you just take his bowl mid-meal.   
    • If he is showing any signs of food aggression –seek help if you are inexperienced in handling these issues.
    • Work on the "leave it" command, by asking them to give up some toy or bone by giving them a much greater value treat or toy, then giving the object back. They need to learn that it's ok to give up something they like when you ask. It just might be your shoe or your kids favorite toy.    Training Guide for Leave It  
  • Don't entertain guests or take them on outings (events, Petsmart, etc)  for the first 2-3 weeks. We know you want to show them off, but you need to bond, and gain some experience with the new pack member. When you do take them out or have people over -- do not leave them unsupervised. Manage their environment, the energy present, and the greetings by others (human and dogs, and especially kids). If any indications of fear are present, give him some space & distance from the greeter.  Teach your guests and your family to respect boundaries with the new dog.   
  • When you finally do have guest overs – ask them to give your dog a treat or two.   Even if it’s to gently toss the treat in his direction.  Do this every time they come over (for a few months) – it teaches them visitors mean I get some yummy treats!  You may need to have him crated for the first few visits, sit quietly by the door, on a “place” in the living room away from the door, before they enter, etc.  


There are generally 3 transition phases in the home -- 3 days, 3 weeks and 3 months.    Keep your leadership level consistent at all times, but be alert to the time-frames and watch for possible changes in your dog.  If necessary go back to the basics and reclaim your role as leader. 





Dana Brigman
The K9 Coach
Dog Training - Matthews, NC
980-339-8064
www.thek9-coach.com
info@thek9-coach.com

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The K9 Coach is a Professional Certified Dog Trainer Serving Charlotte, NC, Matthews, NC and surrounding areas.


My mission is a better life for dogs as members of a forever family.

My goal is to create dog training solutions for the home owner, to rehabilitate dogs from shelters and rescues, and to prevent dogs from dying alone as strays or owner surrenders in shelters due to unnecessary aggression or behavioral issues.


Seek professional dog training help if you have questions about behavior or dog training.  Your own dogs are going through transitions as well. so monitor their behavior and get help if needed. 

*NOTE*  Every scenario is different. You must evaluate your own experience level and understanding of the techniques before implementing them and you must evaluate the response you receive from the dog regarding your pace and your follow-up actions.  Seek professional training if necessary.

This is a suggested list of considerations.   It is NOT intended to be a substitute for professional dog training nor is it a guarantee of success in rehabilitating a dog or safely integrating them into your home. 

This document was developed for a Rescue Foster Program with Great Dane Friends.   It may not be reproduced or distributed in anyway other than sharing a link to this blog.   Other rescues are welcome to refer foster homes or new adopters to this document.  
  


January 18, 2013

Don't Coddle Fear or Anxiety

Our instincts as lovers of dogs, tell us to hold or pet our dogs to comfort them when they are scared or showing signs of anxiety.  Our hearts tell us to comfort them with gentle words and a pleasing voice.

It doesn't work.   

In fact is may have an adverse affect on the well-being of your dog.   How is that possible?   It helps kids, right?

Dogs don't rationalize in the same way people do.   They don't understand that you are verbally telling them not to be afraid.  But rather they associate your soothing behaviors as reinforcement for their state of mind and behavior.

The best thing you can do to help your dog through something fearful, is almost to do nothing.     I showed you recently in the BAT graphic from Grisha Stewart's book, to give distance when things are scary and that's fine to keep from them getting reactive.   But if your dog is just hiding behind your legs quietly while you talk to a stranger, don't even acknowledge your dog.  Let their noses and your body language and confidence do their magic. You might even occasionally change your stance or position near your dog.    Your dog will, in time, start to realize its not big deal.  

When I bring a new foster or training dog into my home, for the first day or two I barely interact with them.   I feed them, take them for a walk, and give them warm shelter of course, but I really don't pet them or talk to them otherwise.   They may stay far away from me for a few days or they may approach me for affection.    If it's a dog with a great fear of people, I always let them make the first move to see me out for attention.

I have brought in many fosters who were scared of everyone!  One dog I brought in, Sara, as you see in the picture, took nearly a week before she approached me on her own.   Even when I took her outside in my fenced yard, I had to have her on a long-line so that I could get her back in the house.  Otherwise, she ran from me.   She didn't pee, poop, or even drink water for about 3 days.   She was truly terrified.  She hid under tables at my house - but over time, she sit under the table at my feet.   

As we progressed, I put her on a shorter lead and went for walks.   I offered treats for approaching me.   Petting took several days.   And its a tearful moment when a dog like that allows you to pet them for the first time.  Even if only for a moment.

There are many techniques you can use with a stressful dog including massage-type therapies, holistic supplements and essential oils, or even music. 

Not all case are extreme as Sara or other fosters -- they may be afraid of Thunder, Fireworks or strangers, or even the most unlikely objects.   Whatever you do -- don't coddle the fear.   They will draw their confidence from your lack of response to the scary thing.

If you have a dog demonstrating anxiety or fear, please seek help so that you can help your dog recover.  They do not generally get better on their own.  These are issues you don't want them to live with or to intensify. 




Dana Brigman
The K9 Coach
Dog Training - Matthews, NC
980-339-8064
www.thek9-coach.com
info@thek9-coach.com

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The K9 Coach is a Professional Certified Dog Trainer Serving Charlotte, NC, Matthews, NC and surrounding areas.

My mission is a better life for dogs as members of a forever family.

My goal is create training solutions for the home owner, to rehabilitate dogs from shelters and rescues, and to prevent dogs from dying alone as strays or owner surrenders in shelters due to unnecessary aggression or behavioral issues.

Begin training with a consult with a professional trainer to be sure you're solving the right problem. Misdiagnosis can make the matters worse. Be sure that there are no medical issues at play and that your dog is not in pain, as pain can be a contributor to a new display of aggression. If you have any fear or uncertainty -- do not attempt the techniques without professional supervision.

 
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January 15, 2013

Impulse Control (Wait!)

Teaching your dog impulse control goes a long way in establishing leadership and mental challenges for your dog.   It will translate to many other areas of day to day life.

Wait!  is different in my opinion in that the dog is eventually going to get to have the thing they are waiting for.  In Leave It!  they never get the thing they are told not to touch.

Wait!  is very easy to teach.   

  • At meal time, ask you dog to sit as you hold his bowl of food in your hand. 
  • Ask your dog to Wait!
  • As you bend over to put the bowl down for serving, if his bottom leaves the ground, stand back up with out putting the food down.
  • Say "No, Wait"
  • Repeat until your dog (including puppies as young as 7 weeks) sit still as you put the food down
  • Then give a cue word like Eat
  • Stand and walk away
The first time you place the bowl down, say Eat! as soon as the bowl hits the ground. Practice at that pace until your dog starts to understand the cue word.   Then increase the time you have the dog wait before giving the cue.  

You should be able to have your dog wait even as you leave the room!

I don't make them wait very long.  Maybe a minute or two -- just to instill impulse control.   But I will tell you I once had a friend pet sitting for me and she forgot to tell Vinnie to eat and he waited about 15 minutes!   Needless to say there was a pool of drool on the floor.

I've seen some people use a word like "Amen!" and in essence teach there dog to say the blessing.   It doesn't matter what words you use prior to the cue word, they simply have to wait for the cue!

Apply this same technique as you ask your dog to wait for the door to open.  Doors include the crate, access to the yard or a walk, exiting the car, etc.     Simply start to open the door, and if his bottom leaves the ground, the door closes.   You practice until the dog can sit and wait with the door wide open without exiting until you give a cue.  

Note:   For the doorway exercise, always practice on-leash until your dog is reliable. It is also best to teach your dog to walk through slowly and sit on the other side vs bolting out when the cue is given.    

Once your dog is sitting reliably, you can change to a Down!  or even a BOW! or other trick if your dog has learned new skills.

Over time you should be able to ask him to wait to take a treat from the floor.  Or wait for you to throw a ball.  Etc.

It's also important for you to wait to give these cues until your dog is relaxed and calm.  You won't want to create a level of over-excitement at doorways or for food.   For a game like ball it may be ok.  If you're training a scent and tracking dog that level of excitement is actually encouraged.

Have fun and train your dog!

 


Dana Brigman
The K9 Coach
Dog Training - Matthews, NC
980-339-8064
www.thek9-coach.com
info@thek9-coach.com

Follow us On



The K9 Coach is a Professional Certified Dog Trainer Serving Charlotte, NC, Matthews, NC and surrounding areas.


My mission is a better life for dogs as members of a forever family.

My goal is create training solutions for the home owner, to rehabilitate dogs from shelters and rescues, and to prevent dogs from dying alone as strays or owner surrenders in shelters due to unnecessary aggression or behavioral issues.

Begin training with a consult with a professional trainer to be sure you're solving the right problem. Misdiagnosis can make the matters worse. Be sure that there are no medical issues at play and that your dog is not in pain, as pain can be a contributor to a new display of aggression. If you have any fear or uncertainty -- do not attempt the techniques without professional supervision.

    
 
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