The Fearful Dog: Encourage Bravery Don't Nurture Fear

You have a direct influence on how your dog responds to fear. It takes a little tough love, a little controlled pressure, and patience.

We know this to be true of dogs trying to survive on their own:

• Given access to food and water, the dog will not starve himself.
• Dogs can go for several days without water.   They can go for a couple of weeks without food!   I had a dog that went for several days without evening peeing -- even though she went outside on schedule everyday.  She was too fearful to do it on leash and with me around. Once she learned she had no other options, she started to learn to trust based on experience.
• A dog will work out how to get food  and water  and shelter -- it make take a few attempts but when no humans are involved and dog is own it's own, he will become brave enough to enter into a building, knock over something that makes a clatter, or work his way across a stream or pond, etc if it means access to food, shelter or safety. 
• Dogs will problem solve and develop confidence -- which is why it's essential to guide them to develop confidence in the behaviors we want to see.
• High Value Food rewards significantly influence behavior mod when used to reward good behaviors.   Use freely for the right behavior and to motivate to try new behaviors.

  

  Vika

Sometimes our fears are irrational.  Sometimes fears are based on the unknown or something someone told us.   And sometimes they are based on a past experiences.

I have an irrational fear of snakes.   I don't even want to see one.  You can tell me it's not dangerous all you want.   But I still am afraid.   I'll turn my head even when they are on TV.   Why?  I have no idea really.  I have always been afraid of them.   So the other day when out walking through a nature trail you can imagine my distress when we came across a snake laying across the path.   Had someone else not told me it was a snake, I would have though it was a fallen limb.   It was about 6 feet long and maybe 4 or 5 inches in diameter.   Which is HUGE in my opinion.

I had a choice.  Turn around an make may way back the way we came or go forward, passing the snake.  Turning around meant a much longer walk and a delay in getting to resources -- namely my car with A/C, lunch, and a shower.   Or I could take a brave step forward, passing the snake and be on our way.

My skin crawled with cold chills.   I'm sure without measuring it, my heart rate sped up, my blood pressure increased, my knees shook.   All involuntary responses -- even though my brain understood it should be OK, there was a benefit to taking the shorter route, and my friend was encouraging me and trying to talk me through it.   None of that mattered in that moment.   I needed to take the step forward all by myself.

Such is how it goes with dogs.  When they are afraid, you have to understand it's not voluntary and no amount of you encouraging them changes their level of anxiety.  The only thing that begins to modify their response is to take a brave step forward on their own, letting the brain do the work and process what happens (or doesn't happen).

_______________________________________________

Shelter life is a prison for dogs.  It's stressful, scary, and confusing.  Some are on death row and will never make it out.   Some are afraid and withdrawn in the cage.   Others shut down.  Others bark and cry, confused as to why they are there and not living the life they once new -- even if that life was not one of a happy home.   It's hell for every dog in there.   And they respond in different ways.  Given that they are masters of reading energy, they KNOW this place is not good.  

Whether its abuse, trauma, lack of early developmental support, or simply being completely overwhelmed by the shelter or loss of the only way of life they have ever known, and now having to interact with strangers or dogs they have never experienced -- it can be too much for some dogs.  It can mess up an otherwise perfectly happy and healthy dog, so imagine what it can do to one that is already off-balance.

Fear shows up in a number of ways.   Retreat and hide and just pray we'll all leave them alone.   Bark and growl in the hopes we'll leave them alone.  Pressed far enough, a bite may occur in the hopes you will just leave them alone.   These dogs don't want to bite -- but sometimes they know no other way to communicate if you're missing all the other signs to please just give them some space.

So leave them alone!  Seriously.   Give them some space for the first few days.  Let them breathe and settle down.

When you have saved a dog from the shelter or brought home a dog that becomes very shy or fearful, seriously, leave the dog alone for a few days.  What they need from you is access to food, water and a potty break.   He does not need to be smothered with affection right way.

There's plenty of time for nurturing.  But you only get once chance to make a first impression.  You you can't undo a bite.   And it takes even longer to establish a good relationship once it has gone south.

So what do you do with a dog that is fearful.    Become patient and nurture bravery.

By now you know, I'm a firm believe in a slow introduction into the home, other dogs and humans.   Slower than you think is necessary.   Much slower.

So put the dog in the crate when you get them home, and leave them alone until time to go potty.   Pretend the dog is in boarding at a really nice doggie hotel for some r&r.     (Note depending on the level of fear or anxiety -- I might even pull the car into the garage and close the door before I let the dog out to be sure he's not going to slip his leash or bolt past me).

• Give him a cocktail:  Rescue Remedy™ or Fresh Start from Blackwing Farms that can be added to food or water.   Chamomile Tea in their water.
• Make his room smell divine:  put some lavender on his collar and bedding.  
• Let him take a nap:   he will take in a ton of information about your home just by observation and his sense of smell.
• Schedule a nice leisurely walk:   get yourself a Mendota-style leash so that you don't have to even worry with clips and collars and just loop him up for a walk.  No training needs to take place, just go mill around the yard and let him do his potty business.    He doesn't even need off leash time at this point because he may jump the fence or hide in the shrub.
• The first night Sara was here it took hours to catch her after she came out of the car.  (We pulled the car into the fenced yard and opened the hatch.  From then own she was tethered to me on a 10 ft line every time she came out of the crate.   It took about 2 weeks for her to actually approach me on her own, even though she was tethered to me.
• Order Room Service:    Feed him his dinner in his crate.  If he eats great, if not that's ok too.  We'll worry about more structured feeding in a few days.
• Get a good nights rest:   Well, we hope so
• Rinse and Repeat the Spa treatment for a couple of days.

I do this at least the first 2-3 days... maybe longer.    Right now it's about establishing a relationship with me.  I'm the provider of all resources.  I provide food, water, potty breaks and a safe place to rest and observe.  I am in control of life at this point.   Yes, it sounds tough.   Tough love is needed to get the dog to consider me his leader and to need me.

Then what?

There are no hard and fast rules.   It's important to remember that there never really are hard rules in dog training -- even though some basic premises will achieve the biggest results.   This is really more about figuring out the best way forward to create trust and success case by case  -- but here are a few things to keep in mind.

Assuming the dog has some fear of humans and/or environments:

• Don't manhandle them.  It's not really the time to pick up small dogs and carry them around or snuggle with them on the couch .   Now is not the time to force/shove them in crates.  Bribe them with food!  Nothing wrong with a little enticement being tossed to the back of the every single time.  Feed them with their food bowl at the back of the crate and wait for them to go in.  Each time the go over the threshold, use the word "crate" and praise.  
• This is often a trigger for growling and snapping -- or even biting.   
• Get yourself a slip lead. Avoid having to put on a collar or clip a leash that you have to fuss with getting attached to go potty.    Every foster home, transporter and new adopter needs a goo quality slip lead. 
• This is often a trigger for growling and snapping -- or even biting. 
• Where the dog eats can help address environmental fears.  If the dog is reluctant to come "OUT" Of the crate -- you may have to start feeding them just outside the crate.   Start just outside the door to start and progressively moving it further into the room.  Many dogs are afraid to eat around another dog or person.   Build up the challenge of staying in the room with them, or moving by them while they eat. etc.
• Initially, I let Vika eat alone in her crate.  Then she was required to eat outside her crate, then in the kitchen alone, and now the only way she eats is with me and/or other dogs nearby.   If she wants to eat, she has to trust our presence.  Vika still leaves her bowl every single time I or one of the other dogs passes her by when she eats.  It's been almost 6 months. She comes back to finish, but she's not yet brave enough to not give up her bowl.
• If the dog is reluctant to pass you in doorways -- give them plenty of space early on.   Open the door and walk away letting them come in or out as they build confidence to do so.  Leave the room if you have too.  You may need to have some extra time in the schedule to avoid getting frustrated.    Tethering also works really well for a few days for dogs that are really reluctant to come inside.
• Vika often made multiple attempts to come through the door.  She would back up, run back outside, and then finally dart through the door.  As time progressed, I required her to come past me on the porch to get outside, and eventually standing in the doorway myself.  She sometimes still makes a loop before coming in.
• Each time she "comes" in the house, I applied the command and praise even though to help her associate the words with the motion and experience.  

• Create a plan for socialization with strangers.   Only after YOU have a relationship with the dog should you attempt to introduce them to other people.  They will probably not want to greet strangers.   That's OK.  Don't force it.   Sit quietly with someone nearby.   The first few times, the dog may hide behind you.  The goal is to let them approach people.   When you notice them smelling, looking up, inching forward -- reward!   People can offer some chicken yumminess even if the dog doesn't take it from them.   Keep going to where strangers are, even if it's just a few minutes at time.   Keep other people very calm and without quick movements.
• Forced petting or forced approaches are often triggers for growling and snapping -- or even biting.   Give them space, there is nothing on the planet that says they have to warm up to strangers immediately.
• Don't be their shield.  If they are hiding behind your legs, keep stepping aside to expose them.  Over and over if necessary.   If you have taught them to sit -- require them to sit, even if just or a moment or two.
• Don't stay too long in a stressful environment.   A few minutes is enough.   Overwhelming the dog will have adverse affects.   Teach them by early departures that you handle the situations and they will get relief!
• Petco, or Dog Parks with a fearful dog is not a great idea until they learn to trust you and you can walk them on a leash with some success.   When you do go, choose non-busy times and very short trips.   The first few times you might not even make in the front door -- that's OK.
• I once had a client that it took several trips before they could even walk down the parking lot.  The dog was fearful getting out of the car -- so we circled the car, got back in and drove away.   Multiple times, multiple days.... and eventually we built enough confidence to walk down the parking lot..... then in time we could go shopping.   But it took patience and support.
• Don't coddle (Pet or verbally soothe) a fearful dog... let them be present in the moment and don't reinforce the negative behavior.
• If they afraid to go outside -- start feeding them outside.  That would become the only place the dog got any food rewards.
• Afraid to ride in the car -- see:  Riding in Cars with Dogs

There are many fear based issues.   More often than not, we humans, especially moms, want to nurture and soothe the fears away.   With dogs, it just doesn't quite work that way.  We have to let them work through the issues and solve the problem.   In many cases, it's just a matter of not given them other choices, with some safeguards and guidance in place.

Remember -- reward each brave step forward.  Even if that step is to not retreat, or to hold their head up instead of down.

You will do more to influence overcoming fear if you let the dog do the work and you create the next challenge in a very controlled way.

Dana Brigman
The K9 Coach
Dog Training - Matthews, NC
980-339-8064
www.thek9-coach.com
info@thek9-coach.com

Follow us On

Facebook,  Youtube, Twitter, Pinterest , Instagram  & Google+

6 Common Dog Personality Types

6 Common Dog Personality Types

Not all training is created equal.  Until you understand the primary personality of your dog you will not achieve the desired results of training.  Each dog will go at his/her own pace.   We need to learn to evaluate where they are in their ability to learn and know when to push forward gently or to be patient.

Remember the Doggie Language Chart from yesterday -- learn to speak dog and read when he's shutting down from fatigue or frustration.  Likewise, you should never bring frustration, intimidation, anger or other emotions to your training activities with your dog.  If either of you are in the wrong state of mind.  Take a break!!!!    

If you are not giving clear signal and clear expectations -- you could be part of the difficulty of him learning and progressing.   It's easy to push to far to fast -- that can be dangerous with a fear biter or aggressive.   It's also easy to not go fast enough with can create boredom with a Happy Go Lucky or Hyper.

A job well-done is always praise worthy.  ALWAYS PRAISE and reward the the behavior when your dog gets its right. Don't ever forget to praise your dog.    We'll talk about effective praise and reward in a day or two. 
 

Happy Go Lucky

A pleasing dog most of the time, even without training. May demonstrate selective hearing or amnesia as they mature.

Most learn obedience as if it were a game or trick, but often do not choose to comply. Often well socialized and confident.

Training Approach – You must be enthusiastic and fun but hold him accountable to skills and your non-negotiables. Keep him challenged with new skills, new distractions.

Hyper Active

Endless energy. Out of control, pulls against leash. Social, but short attention span and lack of focus. They do not grow out of this personality.

Training Approach Use obedience skills to teach focus and impulse control. Teach restraint. Handler must remain calm and use very limited body movement. High level of verbal or physical praise may be too much for the dog causing him to break commands. Save enthusiasm until the end of a training series.

Shy

A dog displays discomfort or lack of confidence in association with living things. Dog withdraws from unfamiliar living things.
These dogs may become comfortable with some living things but not others.

Usually harmless to others, will not come out of this behavior without help.

Training Approach: Patience and very calm assertiveness. Dog must learn to work through stress. Creating specific patterns of activity and repetitive experiences to build trust and confidence. Teach simple playful games that can be easy and fun for him to learn the value of praise and reward.    Later add obedience work and socialization in incremental steps further builds confidence.

 

Basket Case

A dog that demonstrates anxiety, fear, panic, lack of confidence around unfamiliar people, places or things. As a puppy often raised in isolation.
This personality type usually acts reasonable in his own environment, unless something changes.

Training Approach: handler must build communications slowly and with patience, but still require dog to work on new skill levels each day. It’s a soft requirement to push beyond his current capabilities.

 Fear Biter

An insecure Dog that when cornered or threatened may display aggression. They may also display aggression to people / things that are hesitant or show fear. Most likely to strike when the back is turned.

This personality is often scared, confused, and frustrated. Doesn't make friends easily. Not all fear-biters bite, and it's not limited to large dogs.

Lacks socialization.

Training Approach: handler must be calm and confident. Slow and deliberate in movements. Build trust before obedience. It is highly recommended that you work with a trainer to create controlled environments to add controlled stress to the dog teaching him to cope with it successfully. Muzzle as needed.

 Aggressive

A confident dog with the ability to back it up and reactive poorly (if and when he feels it is needed). Most have learned to intimidate and control other animals and people from an early age. No size limitation.


Training Approach:  An aggressive dog presents significant risk and liability. Training can be extremely effective if the handler is 110% committed to the training and supervision/management of the dog & environment.
 Obedience work builds trust and socialization creates controlled stress to create new behavioral responses from the dogs to his triggers. Handler must be extremely confident (not intimidating or threatening) and non-fearful of the dog. Calm and confident leadership is essential.  Muzzle as needed

Training a dog does not come without risk.   
Consult a professional trainer for all your training needs and questions.  

Coming Up

• Teaching Sit and Using It In Every Day Life

• What is Praise Worthy and How to Give Praise Your Dog Values

• Why Consistency Matters

   

  Dana Brigman
  The K9 Coach
  Dog Training - Matthews, NC
  980-339-8064
  www.thek9-coach.com
  info@thek9-coach.com
  
  Follow us On
  
  
  
  Facebook,  Youtube, Twitter, Pinterest , Instagram  & Google+
  
  

   

Food or Praise for Rewards?

Food or Praise for Rewards?

The short answer is both!  Each has a purpose.   
Get a Treat Pouch and Use it! 

Most dogs will do just about anything for food... especially if they are hungry.    Many dogs will start performing all sorts of behaviors to see if it will be the one that makes you release that yummy treat.   A dog's sense of smell is extremely powerful.  So something that smells yummy will interest them.  Be aware yummy often stinks to us.

To make sure they are hungry when it's time to learn something new, skip the meal prior to the training session.    It won't hurt them -- physically or emotionally.   In fact, it reinforces you control resources for a dominant dog, and helps every dog get focused on learning when you do offer the
food.



Praise -- it's something we will always have with us.   Use it ~ a lot!   If you are using food as a reward, use your praise also.  The dog will create an association of the food reward with your praise and vice versa.

Praise is also something they can learn comes from everyone!  The stranger that finds him if he escapes your yard, your vet, groomer, retail clerk, friends or family may not have the "special" treats your dog loves and will only perform his commands for.

Plan ahead for the life of you dog and know that praise is universal.

Always at least verbally acknowledge the things your dog well!   Ideally, you will want to use the same words so that he learns what they mean, an enthusiastic tone of voice, and physical touch when appropriate.   Consider words like  "yes!", "That's Better", "Good boy".    This reinforces the behaviors you want him to give you and encourages them to keep at it.

When you are training a new skill or trying to counter-condition a behavioral issue, but sure you praise lavishly for a job well-done!  If you have had to give several verbal non-reward markers (No, aaak aaak, etc) to get him to delivery the skill -- withhold your big praise and your treats, and give just the verbal "good boy".  

Some excitable dogs may find that your enthusiasm or your physical touch creates so much excitement that they break their command.  Tone it down if needed.  Don't be the reason your dog breaks his command.      If you do have one a dog like this -- save your best praise for the end of a training segment and then bring on enthusiasm and celebrate with your dog for a great lesson.

As your dog progresses in his learning -- save big praise and/or treats only for the times he delivers the command on the first time he's told.   If you continue to reward after mistakes, he'll keep making them.  


What food to use?
"But my dog is not food motivated".   It's true -- not all dogs are food extremely  motivated, but most people give up too soon on finding out what food will work for your dog.  They will often be food motivated if the treat is valuable enough.  A dog's sense of smell is typically quite acute and will entice them check out what we're offering and if they are hungry.


Explore different food choices ~ hotdogs, boiled chicken, dried liver, smelly cheese, etc.   The stinkier the better.  Figure out what works for your dog.  Something usually will.

For young puppies, your training reward might be as simple as a Cheerio.

For all dogs you can use their meal-time as a reinforcement of Sit/Stay or Down/Stay to earn their food bowl.  They have to hold the command until you release them to eat.

No Really -- He's At All Not Food Motivated:
If food doesn't work -- you need to try toys.  But remember tossing a toy generally gets them up and moving and might not be the reward you want during obedience work or in a group class setting.    It's great for teaching, reward for nose work, or tricks -- but praise may be your best option until you are ready to release the dog from a command.  



Pudgy Pooch?
Remember, we said skipping a meal is not going to hurt them.  So if you are using lots of food reward during training, be sure to cut down calories from their normal meal by skipping or at least giving a smaller portion.

You can also use their kibble for basic training reward, especially after they have learned a new skill.  Alternatively, as you advance your skills, you can cut up some chicken, hotdog or cheese, add some kibble to the treat pouch with that smelly treat and alternate the two rewards.  The kibble will be enhanced by the smell of the other treat reward.  

Dana Brigman

The K9 Coach

Dog Training - Matthews, NC

980-339-8064

www.thek9-coach.com

info@thek9-coach.com

Follow us On

Facebook,  Youtube, Twitter, Pinterest , Instagram  & Google+

Begin all training with a consultation with a professional trainer to be sure you're solving the right problem. Misdiagnosis can make the matters worse. Be sure that there are no medical issues at play and that your dog is not in pain, as pain can be a contributor to a new display of aggression. If you have any fear or uncertainty -- do not attempt the techniques without professional supervision.

Don't Coddle Fear or Anxiety

Our instincts as lovers of dogs, tell us to hold or pet our dogs to comfort them when they are scared or showing signs of anxiety.  Our hearts tell us to comfort them with gentle words and a pleasing voice.

It doesn't work.   

In fact is may have an adverse affect on the well-being of your dog.   How is that possible?   It helps kids, right?

Dogs don't rationalize in the same way people do.   They don't understand that you are verbally telling them not to be afraid.  But rather they associate your soothing behaviors as reinforcement for their state of mind and behavior.

The best thing you can do to help your dog through something fearful, is almost to do nothing.     I showed you recently in the BAT graphic from Grisha Stewart's book, to give distance when things are scary and that's fine to keep from them getting reactive.   But if your dog is just hiding behind your legs quietly while you talk to a stranger, don't even acknowledge your dog.  Let their noses and your body language and confidence do their magic. You might even occasionally change your stance or position near your dog.    Your dog will, in time, start to realize its not big deal.  

When I bring a new foster or training dog into my home, for the first day or two I barely interact with them.   I feed them, take them for a walk, and give them warm shelter of course, but I really don't pet them or talk to them otherwise.   They may stay far away from me for a few days or they may approach me for affection.    If it's a dog with a great fear of people, I always let them make the first move to see me out for attention.

I have brought in many fosters who were scared of everyone!  One dog I brought in, Sara, as you see in the picture, took nearly a week before she approached me on her own.   Even when I took her outside in my fenced yard, I had to have her on a long-line so that I could get her back in the house.  Otherwise, she ran from me.   She didn't pee, poop, or even drink water for about 3 days.   She was truly terrified.  She hid under tables at my house - but over time, she sit under the table at my feet.   

As we progressed, I put her on a shorter lead and went for walks.   I offered treats for approaching me.   Petting took several days.   And its a tearful moment when a dog like that allows you to pet them for the first time.  Even if only for a moment.

There are many techniques you can use with a stressful dog including massage-type therapies, holistic supplements and essential oils, or even music. 

Not all case are extreme as Sara or other fosters -- they may be afraid of Thunder, Fireworks or strangers, or even the most unlikely objects.   Whatever you do -- don't coddle the fear.   They will draw their confidence from your lack of response to the scary thing.

If you have a dog demonstrating anxiety or fear, please seek help so that you can help your dog recover.  They do not generally get better on their own.  These are issues you don't want them to live with or to intensify. 




Dana Brigman
The K9 Coach
Dog Training - Matthews, NC
980-339-8064
www.thek9-coach.com
info@thek9-coach.com

Follow us On

Facebook,  Youtube, Twitter, Pinterest , Instagram  & Google+

The K9 Coach is a Professional Certified Dog Trainer Serving Charlotte, NC, Matthews, NC and surrounding areas.

My mission is a better life for dogs as members of a forever family.

My goal is create training solutions for the home owner, to rehabilitate dogs from shelters and rescues, and to prevent dogs from dying alone as strays or owner surrenders in shelters due to unnecessary aggression or behavioral issues.

Begin training with a consult with a professional trainer to be sure you're solving the right problem. Misdiagnosis can make the matters worse. Be sure that there are no medical issues at play and that your dog is not in pain, as pain can be a contributor to a new display of aggression. If you have any fear or uncertainty -- do not attempt the techniques without professional supervision.

 
**************************************************************************

Reactivity to Dogs or People

 Solving reactivity to people or dogs -- a general guide.

When a dog demonstrates reactivity to people or other dogs, it's most likely rooted in fear.   Since they can't tell us they are afraid, they use the only tactic they know how to get the scary thing to go away -- Aggression.   

Many dogs don't have the social skills to deal with normal every day situations of greeting.   Owner's get frustrated. Friends or neighbors become fearful and sometimes disrespectful. If not treated this behavior escalates. It does not get better on its own. And in some cases the dog is out on the street, dumped in a shelter, or put down.

It must be hard for the dog to be in this state of mind because people and other dogs are everywhere.   So the stress builds and then explodes.  We're lucky if the dog warns us with a raise of the lip or a low growl.   If we're adept at reading our dog, we can discover other signals prior to the showing of teeth and the growling.   If we miss all those signals, the dog is likely to lunge, snap or bite.

There are options to turn make improvements in behavior.  You may never solve it completely, but you can make it better or learn to manage it.  It's important that you start training immediately upon identifying any warning signs or displays of aggression.   These issues do not resolve themselves.  In fact, they typically escalate. 

  

Assume a stronger leadership role in your home and begin implementing the following:  

• No permission to be on the furniture.    
• Teach your dog to "Place" on her bed or in her crate.   Build up to her being able to stay in a place for  30 minutes while you watch TV or make dinner.  
• Begin making her sit and wait for her food.  Start with a brief wait, and then work up to a couple of minutes.  
• Require your dog to sit calmly before going in or out of doorways.   Leaders first. 
• Do 10-15 minutes of basic obedience each day.  Giving praise for a job well done, and holding them accountable to not performing the task on command. 
• Require her to stay in command until you either release her with a verbal OK! Or you issue a new command.
• Spend some time each day in play.   Allow her to know that you’re also a good source of fun.  If your dog escalates with rough play or tug games, throw the ball.   Don't encourage the bad behavior.
  

  • If your dog is guarding toys -- he may not be allowed to have toys for a while, until behavior is improved.   
• Offer affection on your terms -- if the dog seeks it out, ignore them.  You call them to you or go to them to give praise and affection. 
• Offer treats on your terms -- but only when they have learned to sit patiently with manners.

Now about the reactivity.    It’s easy to want to avoid taking her out, but the truth is to address the issue you actually do have to take her out to work on this problem.  After you have spent about a week tuning up the leadership methods described above -- head out in public.  This week at home with obedience and leadership work can also help your dog

Start in small intervals and build up.   You may find that you drive to PetSmart or the park but don’t actually go in the first few times.  You may just stand on the sidewalk watching people/dogs go by.

• You will need to determine her distance threshold and stay below that to start.   You want to keep her calm, focused and prevent the reaction.   The more positive experiences you have the better.
• You will also want to observe to see if you can find common themes in your dogs triggers?   Is it men only?   Men with hats/hoodies or sunglasses?  Children?  Children who are running & squealing?   Is it only when you're sitting down?  Small Dogs?  Big Dogs?   Dogs at play?  Dogs straining on the end of the leash?    It may be everything  -- but it may be much more specific.   Try to identify exactly what it is, then focus on those setups.
• As people/dogs approach, start requiring her to be in Sit Command  and focused on you.   Give a very high value treat rewards (a treat that she ONLY gets when doing these exercises so it’s special) and calm verbal praise for her staying calm and focused on you.   The lesson here is less about obedience, and more about learning to stay calm around potential threats, though you need obedience foundation.
• No food is to be given in response to a reaction.  It's only for staying calm.  
•  If she does begin to give indication of reaction draw her away with a verbal NO!, giving her distance from the threat.  Cross the street if you have too.  Then put her to work in Sit, Down, Heel, etc.  Always praise her obedience work when she does commands as expected.   When she’s calmer, praise her, and try to reduce the distance again. 
• If she has an aggressive reaction (lunging  & snapping) --- you should give her a very effective leash-based correction.  She should know she’s made a mistake.  Do NOT Offer any praise or comfort following this correction.
• You need to stay calm and disciplined in your response to your dog.   If you become fearful, head straight for your car and end the training.    Call a professional if you need help with trying again, but this training must be done.
• If your dog is stronger than you are, you may wish to consider a prong collar.   The correction then is just a pop & release straight up on her prong collar with a verbal NO, and draw her way, and put her to work in obedience commands.   Remember no food reward for obedience work in this case.  
•  Don’t push to fast.  If the threshold is 20ft today, don’'t try to go to 10  feet tomorrow.  Work a day or two at the greater distance, and then move in 2-3 feet a few days later.  Take your time and go slow.  It's better to practice a success than to create a reaction.

• Once you’re able be closer to people  (or other dogs)
• Ask them to just toss great treats in her general direction and pass by without stopping.    Be sure they are not talking to her or making eye contact.
• Once that’s working well for a few days, consider asking them to give her a treat directly (only you can judge her comfort level).   
• You may  never get here.   Meaning, it just may be better for people not to get in close proximity, but you do want to reach the point where they can stand in a conversational space with you and ignoring her and she can remain calm
• People should come in sideways, hold their hand out with the high value treat, and then walk away quietly  -- again no touching or eye contact with her
• She should be sitting
• You should offer praise and control the leash and her head – if anyone is uncomfortable, don'’t do it.
• If at anytime during any phase of the training exercise you feel safety is at risk, use a muzzle for your dog.   Do not put other people or dogs as risk.   It's not worth it.       
• And if you are at all unsure about any techniques, behavior or results  -- call a professional trainer to assist.

  

Practice as often as you can, but it is good experience to work around people in the who understand the challenge, who will follow instructions,  and can help with scenarios and where appropriate have dogs suitable to the practice sessions.  

Review other teaching aids on our FB page.

This can feel overwhelming.   It's not as complicated at is seems and the methods to teach these techniques can be done in just a few lessons with The K9 Coach.    Call us today.   We can help!

Dana Brigman

The K9 Coach

Dog Training - Matthews, NC

980-339-8064

www.thek9-coach.com

info@thek9-coach.com

Follow us On

Facebook,  Youtube, Twitter, Pinterest , Instagram  & Google+

The K9 Coach is a Professional Certified Dog Trainer Serving Charlotte, NC, Matthews, NC and surrouding areas.

My mission is a better life for dogs as members of a forever family.

My goal is create training solutions for the home owner, to rehabilitate dogs from shelters and rescues, and to prevent dogs from dying alone as strays or owner surrenders in shelters due to unnecessary aggression or behavioral issues.

Begin training with a consult with a professional trainer to be sure you're solving the right problem. Misdiagnosis can make the matters worse. Be sure that there are no medical issues at play and that your dog is not in pain, as pain can be a contributor to a new display of aggression. If you have any fear or uncertainty -- do not attempt the techniques without professional supervision.

**************************************************************************