Change Your Behavior To Change Your Dog's Behavior. The K9 Coach Dog Training Matthews, Pineville, Charlotte, Ballantyne NC
September 03, 2014
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Dana
9/3/2014
August 13, 2014
A New Normal: Earning Rewards
A New Normal
Training
your dog doesn't have to be hours set aside for training. Sure, initially you need to spend some
time daily with 1:1 with your dog teaching, but then once skills are learned,
you simply incorporate them into everyday life.
You create a New Normal.
Calm,
well-behaved dogs know what to do, how to do it, and use those skills to earn
rewards. A good handler requires a skill
demonstration before the reward is given.
Every time.
Rewards Include:
·
Affection
(hugs, kisses, belly rubs or an invitation to the couch)
·
Meals
& Treats
·
Doorway
Exits (crates, cars, and yards included)
·
Balls
& other toys
·
Leash
Management (on & off)
·
Play
time at the park
 |
| Mozzie by Weenie Dog Photography |
For
dogs that demonstrate any sort of aggression, resource guarding, dominance,
bullying, attitude or other unwanted behaviors, it's especially important to
implement this New Normal.
It helps dogs achieve
the following:
·
learned
routines
·
clear
expectations
·
calmer
behavior
·
respect
for the leader / handler & household
rules
·
daily
practice of obedience skills in a fun way
It's
easy to achieve -- just ask your dog for a command. Any command.
Sit, Down, Place, Paw, Watch Me, Touch, or anything else you have taught
him to do! Command Delivered, Reward
Presented.
You
can incorporate it into play time and suddenly training and everyday life is a lot more fun for
both of you!
June 20, 2014
June 19, 2014
Training for a Reliable Recall
Training Your Dog to Come
Training Your Dog to Come When Called
Training your Dog Here
Find this guide and other helpful tips no our website for Dog Training Tips
Visit Our Website
Dana Brigman
The K9 Coach
Dog Training - Matthews, NC
980-339-8064
www.thek9-coach.com
info@thek9-coach.com
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Training Your Dog to Come When Called
Training your Dog Here
Find this guide and other helpful tips no our website for Dog Training Tips
Visit Our Website
The K9 Coach
Dog Training - Matthews, NC
980-339-8064
www.thek9-coach.com
info@thek9-coach.com
Follow us On
Crate Training Guide
Crate Training Guide!
It's moved! Still ever helpful, but you'll find a link to download it from our website.
Visit us there
http://www.thek9-coach.com/Common_Dog_Training_Tips.html
The K9 Coach
Dog Training - Matthews, NC
980-339-8064
www.thek9-coach.com
info@thek9-coach.com
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June 03, 2014
The Fearful Dog: Encourage Bravery Don't Nurture Fear
You have a direct influence on how your dog responds to fear. It takes a little tough love, a little controlled pressure, and patience.
We know this to be true of dogs trying to survive on their own:
- Given access to food and water, the dog will not starve himself.
- Dogs can go for several days without water. They can go for a couple of weeks without food! I had a dog that went for several days without evening peeing -- even though she went outside on schedule everyday. She was too fearful to do it on leash and with me around. Once she learned she had no other options, she started to learn to trust based on experience.
- A dog will work out how to get food and water and shelter -- it make take a few attempts but when no humans are involved and dog is own it's own, he will become brave enough to enter into a building, knock over something that makes a clatter, or work his way across a stream or pond, etc if it means access to food, shelter or safety.
- Dogs will problem solve and develop confidence -- which is why it's essential to guide them to develop confidence in the behaviors we want to see.
- High Value Food rewards significantly influence behavior mod when used to reward good behaviors. Use freely for the right behavior and to motivate to try new behaviors.
Vika
Sometimes our fears are irrational. Sometimes fears are based on the unknown or something someone told us. And sometimes they are based on a past experiences.
I have an irrational fear of snakes. I don't even want to see one. You can tell me it's not dangerous all you want. But I still am afraid. I'll turn my head even when they are on TV. Why? I have no idea really. I have always been afraid of them. So the other day when out walking through a nature trail you can imagine my distress when we came across a snake laying across the path. Had someone else not told me it was a snake, I would have though it was a fallen limb. It was about 6 feet long and maybe 4 or 5 inches in diameter. Which is HUGE in my opinion.
I had a choice. Turn around an make may way back the way we came or go forward, passing the snake. Turning around meant a much longer walk and a delay in getting to resources -- namely my car with A/C, lunch, and a shower. Or I could take a brave step forward, passing the snake and be on our way.
My skin crawled with cold chills. I'm sure without measuring it, my heart rate sped up, my blood pressure increased, my knees shook. All involuntary responses -- even though my brain understood it should be OK, there was a benefit to taking the shorter route, and my friend was encouraging me and trying to talk me through it. None of that mattered in that moment. I needed to take the step forward all by myself.
Such is how it goes with dogs. When they are afraid, you have to understand it's not voluntary and no amount of you encouraging them changes their level of anxiety. The only thing that begins to modify their response is to take a brave step forward on their own, letting the brain do the work and process what happens (or doesn't happen).
_______________________________________________
Shelter life is a prison for dogs. It's stressful, scary, and confusing. Some are on death row and will never make it out. Some are afraid and withdrawn in the cage. Others shut down. Others bark and cry, confused as to why they are there and not living the life they once new -- even if that life was not one of a happy home. It's hell for every dog in there. And they respond in different ways. Given that they are masters of reading energy, they KNOW this place is not good.
Whether its abuse, trauma, lack of early developmental support, or simply being completely overwhelmed by the shelter or loss of the only way of life they have ever known, and now having to interact with strangers or dogs they have never experienced -- it can be too much for some dogs. It can mess up an otherwise perfectly happy and healthy dog, so imagine what it can do to one that is already off-balance.
Fear shows up in a number of ways. Retreat and hide and just pray we'll all leave them alone. Bark and growl in the hopes we'll leave them alone. Pressed far enough, a bite may occur in the hopes you will just leave them alone. These dogs don't want to bite -- but sometimes they know no other way to communicate if you're missing all the other signs to please just give them some space.
So leave them alone! Seriously. Give them some space for the first few days. Let them breathe and settle down.
When you have saved a dog from the shelter or brought home a dog that becomes very shy or fearful, seriously, leave the dog alone for a few days. What they need from you is access to food, water and a potty break. He does not need to be smothered with affection right way.
There's plenty of time for nurturing. But you only get once chance to make a first impression. You you can't undo a bite. And it takes even longer to establish a good relationship once it has gone south.
So what do you do with a dog that is fearful. Become patient and nurture bravery.
By now you know, I'm a firm believe in a slow introduction into the home, other dogs and humans. Slower than you think is necessary. Much slower.
So put the dog in the crate when you get them home, and leave them alone until time to go potty. Pretend the dog is in boarding at a really nice doggie hotel for some r&r. (Note depending on the level of fear or anxiety -- I might even pull the car into the garage and close the door before I let the dog out to be sure he's not going to slip his leash or bolt past me).
- Give him a cocktail: Rescue Remedy™ or Fresh Start from Blackwing Farms that can be added to food or water. Chamomile Tea in their water.
- Make his room smell divine: put some lavender on his collar and bedding.
- Let him take a nap: he will take in a ton of information about your home just by observation and his sense of smell.
- Schedule a nice leisurely walk: get yourself a Mendota-style leash so that you don't have to even worry with clips and collars and just loop him up for a walk. No training needs to take place, just go mill around the yard and let him do his potty business. He doesn't even need off leash time at this point because he may jump the fence or hide in the shrub.
- The first night Sara was here it took hours to catch her after she came out of the car. (We pulled the car into the fenced yard and opened the hatch. From then own she was tethered to me on a 10 ft line every time she came out of the crate. It took about 2 weeks for her to actually approach me on her own, even though she was tethered to me.
- Order Room Service: Feed him his dinner in his crate. If he eats great, if not that's ok too. We'll worry about more structured feeding in a few days.
- Get a good nights rest: Well, we hope so
- Rinse and Repeat the Spa treatment for a couple of days.
I do this at least the first 2-3 days... maybe longer. Right now it's about establishing a relationship with me. I'm the provider of all resources. I provide food, water, potty breaks and a safe place to rest and observe. I am in control of life at this point. Yes, it sounds tough. Tough love is needed to get the dog to consider me his leader and to need me.
Then what?
There are no hard and fast rules. It's important to remember that there never really are hard rules in dog training -- even though some basic premises will achieve the biggest results. This is really more about figuring out the best way forward to create trust and success case by case -- but here are a few things to keep in mind.
Assuming the dog has some fear of humans and/or environments:
- Don't manhandle them. It's not really the time to pick up small dogs and carry them around or snuggle with them on the couch . Now is not the time to force/shove them in crates. Bribe them with food! Nothing wrong with a little enticement being tossed to the back of the every single time. Feed them with their food bowl at the back of the crate and wait for them to go in. Each time the go over the threshold, use the word "crate" and praise.
- This is often a trigger for growling and snapping -- or even biting.
- Get yourself a slip lead. Avoid having to put on a collar or clip a leash that you have to fuss with getting attached to go potty. Every foster home, transporter and new adopter needs a goo quality slip lead.
- This is often a trigger for growling and snapping -- or even biting.
- Where the dog eats can help address environmental fears. If the dog is reluctant to come "OUT" Of the crate -- you may have to start feeding them just outside the crate. Start just outside the door to start and progressively moving it further into the room. Many dogs are afraid to eat around another dog or person. Build up the challenge of staying in the room with them, or moving by them while they eat. etc.
- Initially, I let Vika eat alone in her crate. Then she was required to eat outside her crate, then in the kitchen alone, and now the only way she eats is with me and/or other dogs nearby. If she wants to eat, she has to trust our presence. Vika still leaves her bowl every single time I or one of the other dogs passes her by when she eats. It's been almost 6 months. She comes back to finish, but she's not yet brave enough to not give up her bowl.
- If the dog is reluctant to pass you in doorways -- give them plenty of space early on. Open the door and walk away letting them come in or out as they build confidence to do so. Leave the room if you have too. You may need to have some extra time in the schedule to avoid getting frustrated. Tethering also works really well for a few days for dogs that are really reluctant to come inside.
- Vika often made multiple attempts to come through the door. She would back up, run back outside, and then finally dart through the door. As time progressed, I required her to come past me on the porch to get outside, and eventually standing in the doorway myself. She sometimes still makes a loop before coming in.
- Each time she "comes" in the house, I applied the command and praise even though to help her associate the words with the motion and experience.
- Create a plan for socialization with strangers. Only after YOU have a relationship with the dog should you attempt to introduce them to other people. They will probably not want to greet strangers. That's OK. Don't force it. Sit quietly with someone nearby. The first few times, the dog may hide behind you. The goal is to let them approach people. When you notice them smelling, looking up, inching forward -- reward! People can offer some chicken yumminess even if the dog doesn't take it from them. Keep going to where strangers are, even if it's just a few minutes at time. Keep other people very calm and without quick movements.
- Forced petting or forced approaches are often triggers for growling and snapping -- or even biting. Give them space, there is nothing on the planet that says they have to warm up to strangers immediately.
- Don't be their shield. If they are hiding behind your legs, keep stepping aside to expose them. Over and over if necessary. If you have taught them to sit -- require them to sit, even if just or a moment or two.
- Don't stay too long in a stressful environment. A few minutes is enough. Overwhelming the dog will have adverse affects. Teach them by early departures that you handle the situations and they will get relief!
- Petco, or Dog Parks with a fearful dog is not a great idea until they learn to trust you and you can walk them on a leash with some success. When you do go, choose non-busy times and very short trips. The first few times you might not even make in the front door -- that's OK.
- I once had a client that it took several trips before they could even walk down the parking lot. The dog was fearful getting out of the car -- so we circled the car, got back in and drove away. Multiple times, multiple days.... and eventually we built enough confidence to walk down the parking lot..... then in time we could go shopping. But it took patience and support.
- Don't coddle (Pet or verbally soothe) a fearful dog... let them be present in the moment and don't reinforce the negative behavior.
- If they afraid to go outside -- start feeding them outside. That would become the only place the dog got any food rewards.
- Afraid to ride in the car -- see: Riding in Cars with Dogs
There are many fear based issues. More often than not, we humans, especially moms, want to nurture and soothe the fears away. With dogs, it just doesn't quite work that way. We have to let them work through the issues and solve the problem. In many cases, it's just a matter of not given them other choices, with some safeguards and guidance in place.
Remember -- reward each brave step forward. Even if that step is to not retreat, or to hold their head up instead of down.
You will do more to influence overcoming fear if you let the dog do the work and you create the next challenge in a very controlled way.
The K9 Coach
Dog Training - Matthews, NC
980-339-8064
www.thek9-coach.com
info@thek9-coach.com
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May 08, 2014
My Dog Is A Decision Maker
My Dog Is A Decision Maker
Dogs make decisions.
Dogs Problem Solve
When I give my doxies a new food puzzle the literally work it out in their little minds how to get the food out. It's trial and error. It might take a while, they might even get frustrated the first time or two, but they solve the issue and get the reward.When Vinnie is out and I make him "place" on some new object -- like a rock or park bench -- or walk across a little bridge on the walking trails he has to figure out how to get there. He knows what "Place" means, he has learned to trust me, and he works it out with motivation and encouragement from me.
A Lesson from The Stray Dogs
Dogs who have been stray have mastered their skills of finding food and water. They make the decision about where to sleep, when to sleep and how to get access to food and water. When food and water are present, they will figure out how to survive. We know they are capable of learning.
When they move into our social world, the skills they need to have to succeed in our homes and environment may be radically different that the skills they learned instinctively or under abusive conditions.
The point is dogs make choices, decisions, and they learn.
When we teach them new skills, like how to focus on their handler under distractions, they can learn to make the decision to "watch" you when it matters and to hold simple commands. They can make the decision do something other than bark and lunge at other dogs on their walk. They can make a decision to walk away from a bone or not be growly at strangers.
They can only make these better decisions if they have alternative skills in their toolbox.
When we teach new skills during training classes, we teach them what to do, how to do it and when to do it. We teach you timing techniques and learning to read your dogs body language.
As the learn, we have to give the dog a few seconds to think and make a decision to perform that skill before we apply any tension or navigation to their leash. Avoid using your leash as a brake or a tug to get started on your walk. Just give the command/signal. We can show you the proper time to apply gentle tension to the leash, but it's not for the command itself.
We want them to learn to make these choices even when there is no leash at all.
Through guided learning, let your dog solve problems and think.
Dana Brigman
The K9 Coach
Dog Training - Matthews, NC
980-339-8064
www.thek9-coach.com
info@thek9-coach.com
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April 30, 2014
Train Your Dog Like You Train an Athlete. Practice Often.
Train Your Dog Like You Train an Athlete. Practice Often. Before The Big Game.
Use your hand signals.
Use your training.
We want you to have a very clear communication method with your dog. It is a consistent word choice. Consistent hand signal / body language. And very clear expectations of what to do when "x" happens.
We teach you how to achieve that.
For dogs that have a history of fear aggression, resource guarding, or other behavioral issues -- this is critical. You must you practice it many times when distractions are low. Then, when the stakes are high, you are simply asking something of him he has done many times before and knows how to be successful.
Do what you're both trained to do and give him a command for "off". It takes time to create of course. It truly is training and practice much like an athlete. Practice often and just because even when you are no long having problems.
When you do anything other than what you have trained for, it may be confusing to your dog. Confusion can lead to frustration which can lead to him communicating with you by growling, snapping, or even biting in extreme moments.
This can be applied to many scenarios that will help prevent your dog from "guarding". Teach what to do and how to be successful - -then use that teaching when the stakes are high and don't panic.
Example: your dog guards the couch. You've taught him not to be on the couch. A few weeks later you find him up on the couch. Your first reaction cannot be to physically remove him by reaching for his collar or shooing him off by poking his butt or sitting on him.
This can be the same for him having a kids toy he shouldn't have -- don't pry it out of his mouth, use the command you taught for drop it.
YOU have to be consistent to and can't expect him to perform well if you change the expectation and start physically manipulating him to move or give up some object.
******************
Start training your dog for basic skills (whether he has issues or not) as soon as you bring him home!
Basic life skills include Sit/Stay, Come When Called, Drop It, Leave It and Watch me.
If you have not yet trained him and see a new guarding behavior redirect him to some other item of value (treat, toy, etc) -- in the heat of the moment just get him out of the aggression mindset -- we can begin training later, but we can't undo snapping and biting.
(And that my friends is an early bite-prevention tip)
Dana Brigman
The K9 Coach
Dog Training - Matthews, NC
980-339-8064
www.thek9-coach.com
info@thek9-coach.com
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March 31, 2014
Thunder Phobia In Dogs
And
The Thunder Rolls:
by: Dana Brigman, The K9 Coach
by: Dana Brigman, The K9 Coach
Dog Training Matthews NC
Summer comes with thunder, lightening and fireworks which can be frightening for puppies and adults alike. It can send your dog
 |
| Princess Lexie |
If you are raising a puppy, the first time they experience these events may be highly stressful. Your reaction to the event is key. Don't make a big deal out of it. Ignore the storm and go about your normal activities. If you're outside when it pops, calmly head back for the house. Make no dramatic fanfare about the noise, wind or rain.
We all want to snuggle up with them, but DO NOT pet your dog at this time. Just placing your hand on their back can be comforting, but you do not want to stroke or pet, as this reinforces their state of mind.
Keep your voice calm but not soothing. They may associate your empathy with getting a "reward" from you for being stressed out.
Offer a distraction like playing a game with them and make it fun. Spend a few minutes working on simple obedience skills that earn them yummy treats that are reserved ONLY for thunder/fireworks training. Keep them occupied with something far more enjoyable that trembling in fear.
It's a little more challenging when you take in an adult who has fear issues with thunder, lightening and fireworks or when you discover that your dog has become fearful "suddenly". Perhaps something happened before your adoption/foster, or perhaps even while you were not home during an event. Many people use wraps like the ThunderShirt (tm). These tools be highly effective when used properly.
When using a wrap, you can't just put it on the dog during the event and pray that it works. It is advisable to introduce the dog to the wrap well in advance of it's use by letting them smell it, touch it, perhaps even sleep with it in their crate for a day or two. Then when the dog is in a very calm state of being, begin to put it on them. You may even offer treats to do so. Then take it off promptly. Gradually, working in incremental stages to 10, 20, 30, 60 minutes of wear. This helps the dog become accustomed to the process of putting the wrap on, so that when a storm is forecasted you can get it on with ease, well in advance of the storm arrival. It is highly recommended that you do not leave your dog home alone during the first few storms they are wearing the wrap. You want to monitor it's effectiveness and your presence as you go about normal activities and perhaps some game play will help them stay in a calm state of mind.
You might also try music as a rehabilitation tool. You can find CD's from dog trainers targeted at Thunder and Firework desensitization. You can also find spa music to download from your music marketplace -- just look for piano based music with thunder in the background. Again, while the dog is calm and no storm on the horizon begin playing the music on a low volume. You can do this while working on your laptop, household chores, etc. Many dogs will simply sleep through it. You may get a ear perk or two if it's too loud to start. Say nothing and lower the volume. Play it daily, and gradually increase the volume.
It may at times be necessary to also consider holistic remedies or prescribed medication if the other treatments don't work effectively enough. Storm Stress, Rescue Remedy are good products. Check out http://www.blackwingfarms.com as well. Chamomile Tea, Lavender, Calming Collars etc may all be helpful. Melatonin can be too -- check with your vet if your dog is on any prescription meds to verify there won't be any adverse interactions. And be sure to check proper dosage for your dog's weight/age, etc.
The first storm or two may not be perfect, but my Great Dane who has been afraid of storms, will now go outside while the thunder rolls to go potty if necessary. I don't make her do that, but she will.
If these training plans don't have sufficient results in a reasonable period of time, it may be necessary to discuss prescription meds for anxiety with your veterinarian.
Still having trouble with your dog in the storm? Have you had success with wraps? Let us her from you.
We're here to help.
Dana Brigman
The K9 Coach
Dog Training - Matthews, NC
980-339-8064
www.thek9-coach.com
info@thek9-coach.com
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