Separation Anxiety & Isolation Distress

Separation Anxiety

Most people typically love when  their dog wants to be right by their side.  After all, we wanted a companion.   But when your dog won't even let you out of sight to take a shower  ~  you may be dealing with something a little more than a desire to be with you.

If your dog panics when you leave the house and attempts to break out of his crate,  drools puddles of saliva, injures himself, or attempts to eat your dry wall ~ you are definitely dealing with an anxiety disorder with your dog.

Dogs with separation anxiety or isolation distress suffer from a very real physiological stress response.  They can't rest.  They pant heavily.  They pace.  They drool profusely.   They panic and need to get to you -- wherever you may have gone.      They believe that their eating the front door is what brought you back home.   So when it works once in their mind -- they do it again the next day.   When it doesn't work the same way, they intensify. 


Separation Anxiety is often misdiagnosed by the owner.   The term is applied generically to every whine or whimper your dog has when put his or her crate.  They may even think a crate escape artist has separation anxiety  -- but really he's absolutely fine without you home though maybe a little mischievous -- once he's out of the crate.  He just hasn't be properly acclimated to  his crate. 

• Some dogs will be fine with  you out of the room as long as you're in the house -- Separation Anxiety.  
• Other dogs can't bear to have you out of sight, even if you're home -- Isolation Distress.

It's a terrible way of being for your dog.  And for you.   You may be feeling like you can't risk leaving the house for fear of an emergency vet visit or needing a new front door.  It is highly emotional for everyone.

There are no quick fixes.  Generally speaking:   Your dog is not going to get better on his own.  He won't outgrow it on his own.  And he won't give up. 

You need to begin today helping your dog change his behavior.   Stop feeling sorry for your dog's past, let go of everything that happened yesterday  -- live in the present and change your behavior.

• Lead him gently but with confidence and consistency as a daily way of life. 

• Be consistent with clear expectations for your dog's behavior -- and your own.

• Work on serious obedience training -- teach your dog several new skills hat he can earn praise for and build his on confidence in ways he can please you.  Challenge his mind and stimulate him mentally each day.

• Exercise him daily with structured walks (heel, sit/stay around distractions, recall work, etc)to the point of being nice and tired (not exhausted) --- he will be more responsive to the work you're doing if he has burned off excess energy.   A leisure walk and an open run in your fenced yard is not structured exercise.

• Find a great game you can play with him -- Fetch, Tug (if appropriate), Scent Work, etc.

  
Crate Train Your Dog   Crate Training Guide

• Please be aware that if you start zip tying your dog in his crate that it's a) Dangerous in an emergency that you might not be able to get him out quickly and b) it might create even more stress and panic for the dog. 
• Use the crate while you are home -- not just when you leave.  We know you love Fido and want to cuddle with him as much as possible -- but at this time, until the SA is resolved, you may need a little tough love.  Teaching him that being in his crate can be restful while you're home.

Working with Isolation Distress:  You won't be able to leave the house, if you can't leave the room. 

•  Teach Place!   If your dog can learn to settle and relax on a mat with you in the room, he can also learn to settle and relax on a mat as leave the room for timed intervals.    It gives your dog something to do that he knows how to do -- and he will earn your praise for doing it.   That makes him happy.  Attempt to achieve an hour or two while you're home!
• Basic obedience will help in this area as well.    
• Add duration work -- long down stays (20-30 minutes) while you make dinner or watch TV/read.   Require him to down/stay in his crate with the door open.
• Giving him a chew toy, yummy frozen treat etc may help

 Working on Separation Anxiety:

It is highly recommended to not leave the dog alone for the first several days or even weeks as you work though training.   Each incident of panic your dog has, makes overcoming the anxiety that much more difficult.

I recommend you take a few days off work or at least over a weekend, and start practicing this behavior modification for several days in a row.  You'll make a lot more progress with repetition and consistency.   Many people consider doggie day care, pet sitters, or other solutions to prevent the doing being alone at home for extended periods of time until training progresses.

• Change your routine.  Create an unexpected response for your dog.

• When your dog is familiar and comfortable with being his crate with the door closed for a while with you home but out of the room -- begin to walk outside.

• Create incremental training goals.   Timed & Random intervals in the crate as you go outside, leave the house from 1 minute building to a couple of hours

Barking, Whining, Scratching and Gnawing must be corrected.

• The more they practice these behaviors, the more they embrace these behaviors.  Put a stop to these behaviors by drawing on other obedience skills.    Work on teaching a quite or calm command.   
• When necessary consider other training tools to interrupt the unwanted behaviors.

I know what you're thinking.   This could take weeks!  Yes, it could.   Your dog didn't develop this level of anxiety overnight and you won't solve it overnight.  It takes as long as it takes.   But with regular practice, keeping him guessing about the pattern, and you remaining consistent in your behavior -- you will see results. 

There are some holistic medications you can give you dog to help with anxiety.   These may include melatonin, Rescue Remedy, Calming Collars, Storm Stress, Lavender Essential Oils, Chamomile Tea, Valerian Root to name a few.   Discuss any supplements and dosages with your veterinarian,especially if your dog is on other medications.    Many vets may not agree with holistic solutions, so do your research.

For severe cases your vet may help you by prescribing something to help with behavior modification.   Medication alone is not your solution.  You still need to put in the training work.

We're here to help with you need us.   Call today.




Dana Brigman
The K9 Coach
Dog Training - Matthews, NC
980-339-8064
www.thek9-coach.com
info@thek9-coach.com

Follow us On

Facebook,  Youtube, Twitter, Pinterest , Instagram  & Google+

The K9 Coach is a Professional Certified Dog Trainer Serving Charlotte, NC, Matthews, NC and surrounding areas.

 

My mission is a better life for dogs as members of a forever family.

My goal is create training solutions for the home owner, to rehabilitate dogs from shelters and rescues, and to prevent dogs from dying alone as strays or owner surrenders in shelters due to unnecessary aggression or behavioral issues.

Begin all training with a consultation with a professional trainer to be sure you're solving the right problem. Misdiagnosis can make the matters worse. Be sure that there are no medical issues at play and that your dog is not in pain, as pain can be a contributor to a new display of aggression. If you have any fear or uncertainty -- do not attempt the techniques without professional supervision.

Food or Praise for Rewards?

Food or Praise for Rewards?

The short answer is both!  Each has a purpose.   
Get a Treat Pouch and Use it! 

Most dogs will do just about anything for food... especially if they are hungry.    Many dogs will start performing all sorts of behaviors to see if it will be the one that makes you release that yummy treat.   A dog's sense of smell is extremely powerful.  So something that smells yummy will interest them.  Be aware yummy often stinks to us.

To make sure they are hungry when it's time to learn something new, skip the meal prior to the training session.    It won't hurt them -- physically or emotionally.   In fact, it reinforces you control resources for a dominant dog, and helps every dog get focused on learning when you do offer the
food.



Praise -- it's something we will always have with us.   Use it ~ a lot!   If you are using food as a reward, use your praise also.  The dog will create an association of the food reward with your praise and vice versa.

Praise is also something they can learn comes from everyone!  The stranger that finds him if he escapes your yard, your vet, groomer, retail clerk, friends or family may not have the "special" treats your dog loves and will only perform his commands for.

Plan ahead for the life of you dog and know that praise is universal.

Always at least verbally acknowledge the things your dog well!   Ideally, you will want to use the same words so that he learns what they mean, an enthusiastic tone of voice, and physical touch when appropriate.   Consider words like  "yes!", "That's Better", "Good boy".    This reinforces the behaviors you want him to give you and encourages them to keep at it.

When you are training a new skill or trying to counter-condition a behavioral issue, but sure you praise lavishly for a job well-done!  If you have had to give several verbal non-reward markers (No, aaak aaak, etc) to get him to delivery the skill -- withhold your big praise and your treats, and give just the verbal "good boy".  

Some excitable dogs may find that your enthusiasm or your physical touch creates so much excitement that they break their command.  Tone it down if needed.  Don't be the reason your dog breaks his command.      If you do have one a dog like this -- save your best praise for the end of a training segment and then bring on enthusiasm and celebrate with your dog for a great lesson.

As your dog progresses in his learning -- save big praise and/or treats only for the times he delivers the command on the first time he's told.   If you continue to reward after mistakes, he'll keep making them.  


What food to use?
"But my dog is not food motivated".   It's true -- not all dogs are food extremely  motivated, but most people give up too soon on finding out what food will work for your dog.  They will often be food motivated if the treat is valuable enough.  A dog's sense of smell is typically quite acute and will entice them check out what we're offering and if they are hungry.


Explore different food choices ~ hotdogs, boiled chicken, dried liver, smelly cheese, etc.   The stinkier the better.  Figure out what works for your dog.  Something usually will.

For young puppies, your training reward might be as simple as a Cheerio.

For all dogs you can use their meal-time as a reinforcement of Sit/Stay or Down/Stay to earn their food bowl.  They have to hold the command until you release them to eat.

No Really -- He's At All Not Food Motivated:
If food doesn't work -- you need to try toys.  But remember tossing a toy generally gets them up and moving and might not be the reward you want during obedience work or in a group class setting.    It's great for teaching, reward for nose work, or tricks -- but praise may be your best option until you are ready to release the dog from a command.  



Pudgy Pooch?
Remember, we said skipping a meal is not going to hurt them.  So if you are using lots of food reward during training, be sure to cut down calories from their normal meal by skipping or at least giving a smaller portion.

You can also use their kibble for basic training reward, especially after they have learned a new skill.  Alternatively, as you advance your skills, you can cut up some chicken, hotdog or cheese, add some kibble to the treat pouch with that smelly treat and alternate the two rewards.  The kibble will be enhanced by the smell of the other treat reward.  

Dana Brigman

The K9 Coach

Dog Training - Matthews, NC

980-339-8064

www.thek9-coach.com

info@thek9-coach.com

Follow us On

Facebook,  Youtube, Twitter, Pinterest , Instagram  & Google+

Begin all training with a consultation with a professional trainer to be sure you're solving the right problem. Misdiagnosis can make the matters worse. Be sure that there are no medical issues at play and that your dog is not in pain, as pain can be a contributor to a new display of aggression. If you have any fear or uncertainty -- do not attempt the techniques without professional supervision.

Help! My Dog Is Digging Up My Yard

I'm afraid in this training tip, my rescuer side might come out a little bit more than usual. 

Dogs are not meant to be outside unsupervised.   If you are out there playing with them, teaching them new skills or otherwise just relaxing, there typically will be no digging.  In all my years, I have never had a dog with a digging problem.   So there must be something to notion of play, supervision and training.

Digging is often a sign of boredom.   Dogs that are under-exercised or not getting enough mental stimulation and human interaction will find ways to occupy themselves.   On hot summer days, when left outside alone, they want to find a cool spot to lay so they churn up some dirt.

So, supervise and interrupt/correct the behavior.   Better yet, play with your dog in some structured games that incorporate impulse control, obedience skills, or even tricks.   Go for a walk!  Engage your dog!  Include him in your life.  

We really only have ourselves to blame if a dog is digging. 

Now that I have that off my chest,  I have reviewed a number of alternative solutions to digging that you might want to consider -- IF and ONLY IF supervision, play and training are not options for your dog.

Some folks have suggested putting a chicken wire mesh under the soil & mulch to make it unpleasant for your dog to dig.   I'd be super cautious about this as if that wire is damaged, it could easily lead to a severe injury for your dog, that is now filled with dirt, bacteria, etc.   I'd just say no to this option.


Take a look at what The Whole Dog Journal has to say about giving your dog a specific place to dig:

http://www.whole-dog-journal.com/issues/11_8/features/Destructive-Digging-Behavior-Solutions_16052-1.html





Dana Brigman
The K9 Coach
Dog Training - Matthews, NC
980-339-8064
www.thek9-coach.com
info@thek9-coach.com

Follow us On

Facebook,  Youtube, Twitter, Pinterest , Instagram  & Google+

The K9 Coach is a Professional Certified Dog Trainer Serving Charlotte, NC, Matthews, NC and surrounding areas.

My mission is a better life for dogs as members of a forever family.

My goal is create training solutions for the home owner, to rehabilitate dogs from shelters and rescues, and to prevent dogs from dying alone as strays or owner surrenders in shelters due to unnecessary aggression or behavioral issues.

Begin all training with a consultation with a professional trainer to be sure you're solving the right problem. Misdiagnosis can make the matters worse. Be sure that there are no medical issues at play and that your dog is not in pain, as pain can be a contributor to a new display of aggression. If you have any fear or uncertainty -- do not attempt the techniques without professional supervision.

Boarding Your Dog -- For The First Time

As you prepare for spring break and summer vacation, you may be thinking about what to do with your dog during your travels.   You have a number of options from pet sitters in your home to boarding them at an all-inclusive doggy day care.     Both are great options and offer your dog lots of TLC and play time.  Other options may just be boarding your dog with the vet or kennel.    No matter what boarding options you choose, there are some things you should consider doing long before you go!

Dogs are really family oriented beings and as such can become very attached to their people.  When their people leave them somewhere new for the first time, it can lead to high levels of anxiety.   This can be especially true if your dog is a rescue dog who may have previously been given up by a family or if they have spent any time at all in the shelter environment.

Stress in these environments can lead to a number of medical issues for your dog.   Like with any desensitization program there are some easy things to do in the weeks (or even months) before you head out for vacation and leave him behind.

• Begin crate training your dog weeks in advance, so that being confined and sleeping alone is not a new experience for him.
• Select your boarding/sitting provider weeks in advance and allow your dog to go several times for play dates and a few overnight stays.  A good facility will require an evaluation in advance anyway and give you key indicators of how your dog reacted to the new environment and the staff.
•  Allow your dog to go for a couple of 1/2 day visits, building up to a full day visit, and ultimately a single overnight.
• Get feedback from the staff after each visit on how your dog responded to the environment, to other dogs and to them.
• Disclose everything to the staff at your boarding / sitting provider.   If your dog has a history of anxiety, medical issues, fears (including Thunder, Strangers, Purple Sunglasses, etc) let them know!  The more they know about your dog, not matter how silly you might thing it is, the better prepared they can be.
• Send your dog's regular food and treats each meal that he will be there
•  There are great calming treats that might be beneficial to your dog.  Discuss with your provider. 
• Send medication and specific detailed instructions for the staff
• You might even discuss medication with your vet in advance if your dog is prone to depression or anxiety in your absences. 
• Send a mat, t-shirt, toy or other item from home that is familiar to the dog and has scents of home & you on it.
• Leave a local emergency contact -- someone that is not traveling with you who can go get your dog from the facility if necessary.
• Provide copies of your vet records and your vet contact information.

When selecting your pet sitting service or boarding facility -- interview them in depth

• Ask them to describe their emergency response protocols
• For dog breeds prone to bloat question them on their experience, knowledge of the symptoms and protocol for treatment. 
• If your dog has a medical condition --discuss it at length and be sure they are prepared to manage an emergency
• Ask them about kenneling dogs from the same home together.  Some facilities do this and so do not.

Vacation should be a time of relaxation and enjoyment.   While there are never guarantees emergencies and medical scenarios won't arise while you're gone -- taking a few measures in advance can help you prepare as best as possible.

Consider a Board and Train Program while you're on vacation.  He's being boarded anyway... why not get some training too for a few dollars more.   Great Value.   Great Investment.
http://www.thek9-coach.com/Board_and_Train_Matthews_NC.html

Do you have tips you would like to recommend we include in this article -- email us!   We want to keep it current and as helpful to clients as possible.






Dana Brigman
The K9 Coach
Dog Training - Matthews, NC
980-339-8064
www.thek9-coach.com
info@thek9-coach.com

Follow us On

Facebook,  Youtube, Twitter, Pinterest , Instagram  & Google+

The K9 Coach is a Professional Certified Dog Trainer Serving Charlotte, NC, Matthews, NC and surrounding areas.


My mission is a better life for dogs as members of a forever family.

My goal is create training solutions for the home owner, to rehabilitate dogs from shelters and rescues, and to prevent dogs from dying alone as strays or owner surrenders in shelters due to unnecessary aggression or behavioral issues.

Begin all training with a consultation with a professional trainer to be sure you're solving the right problem. Misdiagnosis can make the matters worse. Be sure that there are no medical issues at play and that your dog is not in pain, as pain can be a contributor to a new display of aggression. If you have any fear or uncertainty -- do not attempt the techniques without professional supervision.

New Dog Introductions

New Dog Introductions

There is absolutely NO REASON to rush dog to dog introductions or integration into your home.  You have nothing but time to get it right.   When it get it wrong, it's even more difficult to over come.   

Take your time.

_____________________________________________

A dog just pulled from the shelter or dropped off by their owner is in a state of confusion.   Even without visible behaviors, they are very likely to be highly stressed.  They may be fearful.  Every dog has the potential to be reactive.   They may not trust you fully – assume that they don’t.   

It’s important to keep some basic training thoughts in mind when you bring in a new dog to your home.  Rescue dogs are not perfect – they are being re-homed because they have issues of some sort.  In some cases it's simply a lack of basic training.   Assume they have had no leadership.  If they had -- chances are they wouldn't be with you today.

Some dogs will be effortless to fit in your family, while others may be more of a challenge.  You are doing an in-home evaluation of the unknown.  Their behavior at the shelter may not be what you experience.   Their behavior day 1 may not be the same as some point in the future when the honeymoon is over.   

Your own dogs may also respond in ways you have not predicted depending on their level of training, the energy of your pack and the energy presented by the new dog, and how you respond to it all.   You must assume the role of leader.   Period.  

Foster programs not only provides love, shelter and medical care for a rescued Dane;  the foster will need to  provide some basic training, discipline and boundaries..  We may or may not know the truth of their previous background.   It’s up to you to manage introductions, start training, and above all keep everyone in your home safe.

We all want to love these rescues and give them a better life.  Spoiling them rotten or letting them get away with everything because they have never been loved will NOT help these dogs.    You will show your love for them more if you create boundaries and discipline along with lots of TLC as you prepare them for a new home.  

The things you do beginning Day 1, will create the foundation for success.  You have to create the bond of trust & authority (this is not about dominance).  If new issues begin to arise, the sooner you address them the better.  If you are uncertain about a behavior – please seek assistance.  

Be patient and realize training and evaluations take time & effort. Puppies can more quickly overcome poor manners, but an adult dog might actually take many months of training, reconditioning & positive reinforcement to master these skills, and much of the success will depend on you as the handler and the environment you create.  Every positive experience you create for them today, and every negative one you prevent helps set them up for success.

Now, get out the treats and start rewarding all the positive things you want to reinforce and keep him doing.  And correct the issues that are not acceptable.  

Some *Suggestions* from The K9 Coach Include:

Phase I -- at least 48 hours

• Transitions are hard on dogs.   Bringing a new dog into your home also be difficult on your own dog.    Have a quiet place for your new foster to rest and relax on their own.   Preferably this is a crate, x-pen or behind a baby gate.  You want them to be able to see you and your family/pack, but not to interact directly.

• Correct any negative responses from your foster or your pack.  A water bottle can work wonders.

• Feed them in their crate.

• Consider a relaxation cocktail:     Chamomile tea,  Rescue Remedy, Meletonin, and Lavender Oils for their bedding, collar, etc.  

• Interact with them only to provide food, water, and take for a walk to potty several times, and ideally a long walk to just be present with them.   His potty breaks outdoors should be without the other dogs.  

Phase II -- at least 48 hours

• Introduce them to your pack slowly one at a time and on neutral turf such as the front yard with everyone on leash. Don't just open the front door or the fence gate and let the go. This may take you a few days to manage introductions & have safe boundaries for everyone to sniff and smell before they greet directly.

• Watch for and learn the signals the dog is giving you -- and he will in most cases give you an indication of his stress, fear, or attitude. Knowing those signals can help you solve many problems before they escalate. And remember, not all indicators are bad. In fact, it's better to be warned, than not be warned at all and a fight or bite occurs.    What is their response to each other?   Play?  Cautious?   Fear?   Aggression?   These answers will dictate the steps you need to take moving forward and determine your pace.    Review Dog Body Language Signals Here

• Go for a long walk with just you and the foster.   It’s important that they learn to trust you and you learn to read them before a full integration in your pack. 

Phase III

• Begin to take time each day to do some basic training. 10 - 15 minutes a few times a day goes a long way.  Work with a leash and lots of treats on Sit, Come, Heel and Wait (for doors, food etc). Down is much harder and often stressful for the dog, so get the others mastered first even if it takes you several weeks to master them one at a time. A dog with trust issues or fear may be much harder to teach -- so go slower with these dogs.

• Consider some quiet time each day in their crate/x-pen, with time to come out and play/train with you. Play can be training too. Have time that your own dogs are out with you alone without the new foster/adoptee. Just take it slow and give everyone some time and attention to acclimate.

• Always be careful reaching for their collar as a correction, or to move them from the couch (which he shouldn't be on yet anyway). Consider a leash vs direct hand to collar corrections until you are confident in his behavior.  Remember – when he gives you the behavior you do want – give a small treat and lots praise.  Over time phase out the treats and emphasize the praise and physical touch!   Treats should be used only randomly over time. 

• It is as important to train children (and some adults) about respecting the dog, his personal space, his resources (toys & food), his size, etc as it is for you to train the dog about respecting the kids.   Visitors may not be as savvy as your own family, so never leave them unsupervised.   If necessary, put the Dane in his crate during play-dates.  Use This Document as a Teaching tool for your Kids  (Other documents are also in this location)

Phase IV

• When you do give them time out of the crate in the house,  supervise at all times.  Consider having them drag a leash behind them in case you need to correct them.

• Don't let them on the furniture right away. They may begin to guard it and you. Give them a nice cozy, safe place of their own.  If they are guarding you or the kids, from others – a sharp correction, and temporary removal from the presence of the person or thing he’s guarding is a good start.  Note:  Dogs who have a tendency to display aggression should NEVER be allowed on the furniture or bed. 

• Begin early teaching that food from the table or during meal preparation is not going to happen. It just reinforces counter surfing and begging. Send them to their "place" or crate during meal times. Once they are more trustworthy, begin setting boundaries to keep them out of the kitchen or dining room during meal time. This may also mean the kids can't eat on the coffee table, unless he's very well trained to stay in place while they eat.

• Avoid allowing resource guarding -- teach them to wait for their food, and do some hand-feeding. If you feel comfortable, see if you can remove the bowl and give them something of greater value while you do so. He's not going to understand if you just take his bowl mid-meal.   

• If he is showing any signs of food aggression –seek help if you are inexperienced in handling these issues.

• Work on the "leave it" command, by asking them to give up some toy or bone by giving them a much greater value treat or toy, then giving the object back. They need to learn that it's ok to give up something they like when you ask. It just might be your shoe or your kids favorite toy.    Training Guide for Leave It  

• Don't entertain guests or take them on outings (events, Petsmart, etc)  for the first 2-3 weeks. We know you want to show them off, but you need to bond, and gain some experience with the new pack member. When you do take them out or have people over -- do not leave them unsupervised. Manage their environment, the energy present, and the greetings by others (human and dogs, and especially kids). If any indications of fear are present, give him some space & distance from the greeter.  Teach your guests and your family to respect boundaries with the new dog.   

• When you finally do have guest overs – ask them to give your dog a treat or two.   Even if it’s to gently toss the treat in his direction.  Do this every time they come over (for a few months) – it teaches them visitors mean I get some yummy treats!  You may need to have him crated for the first few visits, sit quietly by the door, on a “place” in the living room away from the door, before they enter, etc.  

There are generally 3 transition phases in the home -- 3 days, 3 weeks and 3 months.    Keep your leadership level consistent at all times, but be alert to the time-frames and watch for possible changes in your dog.  If necessary go back to the basics and reclaim your role as leader. 

Dana Brigman
The K9 Coach
Dog Training - Matthews, NC
980-339-8064
www.thek9-coach.com
info@thek9-coach.com

Follow us On

Facebook,  Youtube, Twitter, Pinterest , Instagram  & Google+

The K9 Coach is a Professional Certified Dog Trainer Serving Charlotte, NC, Matthews, NC and surrounding areas.


My mission is a better life for dogs as members of a forever family.

My goal is to create dog training solutions for the home owner, to rehabilitate dogs from shelters and rescues, and to prevent dogs from dying alone as strays or owner surrenders in shelters due to unnecessary aggression or behavioral issues.


Seek professional dog training help if you have questions about behavior or dog training.  Your own dogs are going through transitions as well. so monitor their behavior and get help if needed. 

*NOTE*  Every scenario is different. You must evaluate your own experience level and understanding of the techniques before implementing them and you must evaluate the response you receive from the dog regarding your pace and your follow-up actions.  Seek professional training if necessary.

This is a suggested list of considerations.   It is NOT intended to be a substitute for professional dog training nor is it a guarantee of success in rehabilitating a dog or safely integrating them into your home. 

This document was developed for a Rescue Foster Program with Great Dane Friends.   It may not be reproduced or distributed in anyway other than sharing a link to this blog.   Other rescues are welcome to refer foster homes or new adopters to this document.  
  

Don't Coddle Fear or Anxiety

Our instincts as lovers of dogs, tell us to hold or pet our dogs to comfort them when they are scared or showing signs of anxiety.  Our hearts tell us to comfort them with gentle words and a pleasing voice.

It doesn't work.   

In fact is may have an adverse affect on the well-being of your dog.   How is that possible?   It helps kids, right?

Dogs don't rationalize in the same way people do.   They don't understand that you are verbally telling them not to be afraid.  But rather they associate your soothing behaviors as reinforcement for their state of mind and behavior.

The best thing you can do to help your dog through something fearful, is almost to do nothing.     I showed you recently in the BAT graphic from Grisha Stewart's book, to give distance when things are scary and that's fine to keep from them getting reactive.   But if your dog is just hiding behind your legs quietly while you talk to a stranger, don't even acknowledge your dog.  Let their noses and your body language and confidence do their magic. You might even occasionally change your stance or position near your dog.    Your dog will, in time, start to realize its not big deal.  

When I bring a new foster or training dog into my home, for the first day or two I barely interact with them.   I feed them, take them for a walk, and give them warm shelter of course, but I really don't pet them or talk to them otherwise.   They may stay far away from me for a few days or they may approach me for affection.    If it's a dog with a great fear of people, I always let them make the first move to see me out for attention.

I have brought in many fosters who were scared of everyone!  One dog I brought in, Sara, as you see in the picture, took nearly a week before she approached me on her own.   Even when I took her outside in my fenced yard, I had to have her on a long-line so that I could get her back in the house.  Otherwise, she ran from me.   She didn't pee, poop, or even drink water for about 3 days.   She was truly terrified.  She hid under tables at my house - but over time, she sit under the table at my feet.   

As we progressed, I put her on a shorter lead and went for walks.   I offered treats for approaching me.   Petting took several days.   And its a tearful moment when a dog like that allows you to pet them for the first time.  Even if only for a moment.

There are many techniques you can use with a stressful dog including massage-type therapies, holistic supplements and essential oils, or even music. 

Not all case are extreme as Sara or other fosters -- they may be afraid of Thunder, Fireworks or strangers, or even the most unlikely objects.   Whatever you do -- don't coddle the fear.   They will draw their confidence from your lack of response to the scary thing.

If you have a dog demonstrating anxiety or fear, please seek help so that you can help your dog recover.  They do not generally get better on their own.  These are issues you don't want them to live with or to intensify. 




Dana Brigman
The K9 Coach
Dog Training - Matthews, NC
980-339-8064
www.thek9-coach.com
info@thek9-coach.com

Follow us On

Facebook,  Youtube, Twitter, Pinterest , Instagram  & Google+

The K9 Coach is a Professional Certified Dog Trainer Serving Charlotte, NC, Matthews, NC and surrounding areas.

My mission is a better life for dogs as members of a forever family.

My goal is create training solutions for the home owner, to rehabilitate dogs from shelters and rescues, and to prevent dogs from dying alone as strays or owner surrenders in shelters due to unnecessary aggression or behavioral issues.

Begin training with a consult with a professional trainer to be sure you're solving the right problem. Misdiagnosis can make the matters worse. Be sure that there are no medical issues at play and that your dog is not in pain, as pain can be a contributor to a new display of aggression. If you have any fear or uncertainty -- do not attempt the techniques without professional supervision.

 
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Impulse Control (Wait!)

Teaching your dog impulse control goes a long way in establishing leadership and mental challenges for your dog.   It will translate to many other areas of day to day life.

Wait!  is different in my opinion in that the dog is eventually going to get to have the thing they are waiting for.  In Leave It!  they never get the thing they are told not to touch.

Wait!  is very easy to teach.   

• At meal time, ask you dog to sit as you hold his bowl of food in your hand. 

• Ask your dog to Wait!

• As you bend over to put the bowl down for serving, if his bottom leaves the ground, stand back up with out putting the food down.

• Say "No, Wait"

• Repeat until your dog (including puppies as young as 7 weeks) sit still as you put the food down

• Then give a cue word like Eat

• Stand and walk away

The first time you place the bowl down, say Eat! as soon as the bowl hits the ground. Practice at that pace until your dog starts to understand the cue word.   Then increase the time you have the dog wait before giving the cue.  

You should be able to have your dog wait even as you leave the room!

I don't make them wait very long.  Maybe a minute or two -- just to instill impulse control.   But I will tell you I once had a friend pet sitting for me and she forgot to tell Vinnie to eat and he waited about 15 minutes!   Needless to say there was a pool of drool on the floor.

I've seen some people use a word like "Amen!" and in essence teach there dog to say the blessing.   It doesn't matter what words you use prior to the cue word, they simply have to wait for the cue!

Apply this same technique as you ask your dog to wait for the door to open.  Doors include the crate, access to the yard or a walk, exiting the car, etc.     Simply start to open the door, and if his bottom leaves the ground, the door closes.   You practice until the dog can sit and wait with the door wide open without exiting until you give a cue.  

Note:   For the doorway exercise, always practice on-leash until your dog is reliable. It is also best to teach your dog to walk through slowly and sit on the other side vs bolting out when the cue is given.    

Once your dog is sitting reliably, you can change to a Down!  or even a BOW! or other trick if your dog has learned new skills.

Over time you should be able to ask him to wait to take a treat from the floor.  Or wait for you to throw a ball.  Etc.

It's also important for you to wait to give these cues until your dog is relaxed and calm.  You won't want to create a level of over-excitement at doorways or for food.   For a game like ball it may be ok.  If you're training a scent and tracking dog that level of excitement is actually encouraged.

Have fun and train your dog!

 


Dana Brigman
The K9 Coach
Dog Training - Matthews, NC
980-339-8064
www.thek9-coach.com
info@thek9-coach.com

Follow us On

Facebook,  Youtube, Twitter, Pinterest , Instagram  & Google+

The K9 Coach is a Professional Certified Dog Trainer Serving Charlotte, NC, Matthews, NC and surrounding areas.


My mission is a better life for dogs as members of a forever family.

My goal is create training solutions for the home owner, to rehabilitate dogs from shelters and rescues, and to prevent dogs from dying alone as strays or owner surrenders in shelters due to unnecessary aggression or behavioral issues.

Begin training with a consult with a professional trainer to be sure you're solving the right problem. Misdiagnosis can make the matters worse. Be sure that there are no medical issues at play and that your dog is not in pain, as pain can be a contributor to a new display of aggression. If you have any fear or uncertainty -- do not attempt the techniques without professional supervision.

    

 
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