Teaching Your Dog To Sit and Stay

Teaching  Your Dog To Sit and Stay

I'm letting you guys in on a little secret.   A training guide I normally reserve for clients.     But since it's National Train Your Dog Month -- I'm sharing it with you.  



Command:   Sit!
Have him on leash so that he can't run away from you under distractions.
Hand Signal:  Cup your hand with back of hand facing the dog, approximately waist height  (Movement to this position should be crisp and with purpose!)
Verbal Non-Reward Marker:    "No" or "Aaaaak"-type sound and repeat "Sit"  (tone does not need to be loud or intimidating).  Always correct if he does not perform the command when you issue it, or if he breaks the command before you issue a new command or a release.   Hold him accountable. 
Praise:   always praise your dog for doing the right skill!  
Leash: Use your leash, even in the house and certainly as you progress to public distractions.

Initial Teaching (for a dog that does not already know the command)     

Option 1: 

•  Hold a Treat in front of your dog's nose in your cupped hand, raise treat up and back between dogs ears, slightly above his head.  Say "SIT!"    He should rock his bottom back into a sit position.  As soon as his bottom hit the ground, give the treat and say Okay!!!    
• Okay is his cue that it's okay to end the command.   Over the next several days make him wait a few seconds (building to minutes) before you treat and release.   Always praise for a job well done!   

Option 2:  for the slightly more  challenging learner.

• In additional to the steps in Option 1 -- Apply a gentle pressure with 2 fingers of your left hand @ base of tail.   The right hand is applying a very light tension on leash to lift up.   (This assumes you are facing forward with dog attempting to Sit! on your left)   
• NEVER apply direct pressure to the spine or back.
• Use this only to get him started moving in the posture.   And in a day or two eliminate this touch altogether.  

Acknowledge:   After he sits, verbally say Good Sit! Good Boy, That's It -- something that tells him he's done it right!   
Then ONLY when you are ready Release with Okay! to praise and reward. 



What might go wrong:

• If he's popping out of the sit to early, work on your timing.     Attempt to release him before he breaks so that you are creating success.  But still attempt to lengthen the stay over the next week or so.   
• If he's popping up as you reach down with the treat -- get low!   Sit on the floor to start and work your way to taller positions.   If as you bend he stands up -- you return to a stand tall position and give the verbal non-reward marker.    Be uber sure not to treat him if he's not in the sit position.
• As you progress -- do not hold the treat in your hand, but rather an easily accessible treat pouch.  So that he learns to work without the treat present
• And then start to randomize when the treat reward shows up -- but never miss the praise when you release.
  

Creating a good Sit/Stay:  Once your dog is sitting reliably on the first command, begin to use a little foot work to move away from the dog.   Start with 1/2 steps (only 1 foot moves) or single steps to start and then release.   Create success!  Build up to getting to the full extension of your leash, making the full circle around your dog, and on increasing the duration he must hold this command.   

We do not give a STAY command typically.   It is implied in the command itself.   And often less confusing to the dog.  Remember the less words we use the better!  If he's sitting, he should just sit until released.  

Class Goal #1:  Your goal for class is holding an uninterrupted sit/stay 5 minutes (while other dogs are moving nearby)

Class Goal #2:  master the auto sit.   From a heeling position, when you stop walking your dog should sit automatically without cue from you!

Using in every day life:
As soon as your dog knows Sit with the built in Stay, begin to have your dog wait

• patiently for his meals or treats
• to put on his leash
• for doors to open and be invited through them (house and car), practice commands when the doorbell rings, when you go for a walk
• at Pet Retailers or the Vet's office
  
• on street corners during a walk
• when greeting friends, etc. 
  
• to exit his crate
• when you need him to focus on you for any reason.  It becomes such a fundamental skill it can give him familiar skills to draw on when he's anxious or stressed.
  

Why Auto sit Can Be Helpful

• Greeting a neighbor or stranger on the street and stop to chat for a moment. 
• You stop at the mailbox or answer a phone call
• You're pushing a baby stroller and walking your dog and need to stop to attend the baby
• What if you fall down and injure yourself and aren't able to hold the leash?

Make this your most useful go-to command.

 More on Sit -- It's Not a Trick

Here's Your Dog Training Challenge for the Month of January 2014  --

Practice Training Sit/Stay 

Win A Leather Slip Lead

Upload a video of you and your dog to our Facebook page walking nicely, coming to a complete stop with him sitting at your side without a verbal cue or hand signal.   The stopping alone should be enough to get him to sit.
Then you walk away from him at least 6 feet away (typical leash distance) and circle behind him (no eye contact). Hold it for 1.5 minutes and then release and praise!     Entry must be posted by 6pm ET January 31, 2014.
We will randomly select a winner from the qualified video entries!

Here is your first set of instructions to teach Sit!
With this and the tips we give all month long you're doing to master this and more!

This Leash Can Be Yours!   Enter the Video Contest!

 

Dana Brigman

The K9 Coach

Dog Training - Matthews, NC

980-339-8064

www.thek9-coach.com

info@thek9-coach.com

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6 Common Dog Personality Types

6 Common Dog Personality Types

Not all training is created equal.  Until you understand the primary personality of your dog you will not achieve the desired results of training.  Each dog will go at his/her own pace.   We need to learn to evaluate where they are in their ability to learn and know when to push forward gently or to be patient.

Remember the Doggie Language Chart from yesterday -- learn to speak dog and read when he's shutting down from fatigue or frustration.  Likewise, you should never bring frustration, intimidation, anger or other emotions to your training activities with your dog.  If either of you are in the wrong state of mind.  Take a break!!!!    

If you are not giving clear signal and clear expectations -- you could be part of the difficulty of him learning and progressing.   It's easy to push to far to fast -- that can be dangerous with a fear biter or aggressive.   It's also easy to not go fast enough with can create boredom with a Happy Go Lucky or Hyper.

A job well-done is always praise worthy.  ALWAYS PRAISE and reward the the behavior when your dog gets its right. Don't ever forget to praise your dog.    We'll talk about effective praise and reward in a day or two. 
 

Happy Go Lucky

A pleasing dog most of the time, even without training. May demonstrate selective hearing or amnesia as they mature.

Most learn obedience as if it were a game or trick, but often do not choose to comply. Often well socialized and confident.

Training Approach – You must be enthusiastic and fun but hold him accountable to skills and your non-negotiables. Keep him challenged with new skills, new distractions.

Hyper Active

Endless energy. Out of control, pulls against leash. Social, but short attention span and lack of focus. They do not grow out of this personality.

Training Approach Use obedience skills to teach focus and impulse control. Teach restraint. Handler must remain calm and use very limited body movement. High level of verbal or physical praise may be too much for the dog causing him to break commands. Save enthusiasm until the end of a training series.

Shy

A dog displays discomfort or lack of confidence in association with living things. Dog withdraws from unfamiliar living things.
These dogs may become comfortable with some living things but not others.

Usually harmless to others, will not come out of this behavior without help.

Training Approach: Patience and very calm assertiveness. Dog must learn to work through stress. Creating specific patterns of activity and repetitive experiences to build trust and confidence. Teach simple playful games that can be easy and fun for him to learn the value of praise and reward.    Later add obedience work and socialization in incremental steps further builds confidence.

 

Basket Case

A dog that demonstrates anxiety, fear, panic, lack of confidence around unfamiliar people, places or things. As a puppy often raised in isolation.
This personality type usually acts reasonable in his own environment, unless something changes.

Training Approach: handler must build communications slowly and with patience, but still require dog to work on new skill levels each day. It’s a soft requirement to push beyond his current capabilities.

 Fear Biter

An insecure Dog that when cornered or threatened may display aggression. They may also display aggression to people / things that are hesitant or show fear. Most likely to strike when the back is turned.

This personality is often scared, confused, and frustrated. Doesn't make friends easily. Not all fear-biters bite, and it's not limited to large dogs.

Lacks socialization.

Training Approach: handler must be calm and confident. Slow and deliberate in movements. Build trust before obedience. It is highly recommended that you work with a trainer to create controlled environments to add controlled stress to the dog teaching him to cope with it successfully. Muzzle as needed.

 Aggressive

A confident dog with the ability to back it up and reactive poorly (if and when he feels it is needed). Most have learned to intimidate and control other animals and people from an early age. No size limitation.


Training Approach:  An aggressive dog presents significant risk and liability. Training can be extremely effective if the handler is 110% committed to the training and supervision/management of the dog & environment.
 Obedience work builds trust and socialization creates controlled stress to create new behavioral responses from the dogs to his triggers. Handler must be extremely confident (not intimidating or threatening) and non-fearful of the dog. Calm and confident leadership is essential.  Muzzle as needed

Training a dog does not come without risk.   
Consult a professional trainer for all your training needs and questions.  

Coming Up

• Teaching Sit and Using It In Every Day Life

• What is Praise Worthy and How to Give Praise Your Dog Values

• Why Consistency Matters

   

  Dana Brigman
  The K9 Coach
  Dog Training - Matthews, NC
  980-339-8064
  www.thek9-coach.com
  info@thek9-coach.com
  
  Follow us On
  
  
  
  Facebook,  Youtube, Twitter, Pinterest , Instagram  & Google+
  
  

   

Learn to Speak Dog

Day 1 of January's Train Your Dog Month

Learn to Speak Dog

Learn to Speak Dog -- NTYD Month Day 1

Until you understand how to read your dog's body language, training is going to be very difficult. Even safety and bite prevention are rooted in observation of your dog's body language.    If he's stressed, fearful, or frustrated you will not achieve the desired results of training.   Be assured though, in every situation your dog is learning something from your response or lack thereof.


The graphic below is one of the best I have ever seen about helping people to read their dog's message.   It's by a great illustrator Lily Chin of Doggie Drawings.    Get familiar with it.   Observe your dog carefully over the next few days.   Observe him in new environments, when you take him out to the park, retail stores, or the local cafe.   Observe him when visitors come over.

Observe his eyes.  His Tail.  His ears.   His body itself.  There is a very clear message there.  Very Clear. 

Learn to read your dog and pay attention always!

Aging, Pain, New people, new dog, new environments, new objects,  all affect his response.  

These are not personality traits.   We'll cover that soon.  These are messages of the moment reflecting exactly how he feels at that time.   He has no poker face.

If you observe you'll learn to understand what your dog is saying.   Communications between the two of you will be come much clearer and you'll all be happier.

Coming up --

What is your dog's personality -- it matters to how you train him.

What YOUR body language says to your dog.

 

Consult a professional trainer for all your training questions and needs.

 

Dana Brigman
The K9 Coach
Dog Training - Matthews, NC
980-339-8064
www.thek9-coach.com
info@thek9-coach.com

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Unleashed: Control Your Dog's Greetings

I was recently sitting on the ground making some adjustments to my camera, with a dog in training (on-leash) when this dog came running up on a flexi-lead about 10 feet in front of his handler from behind me.   Nose to Nose with my dog. 

I typically try to keep alert to all surroundings when I have a dog with me.  So I stay prepared to move quickly and to control the dog I'm working with. But you can't see 360* around you.

There are several problems with this scenario:

1. It's extremely disrespectful and potentially dangerous.  
2. That handler had no idea if my dog was friendly, fearful, or otherwise in need of space from being charged upon.
3. Even if his dog was friendly - he had no idea how those 2 dogs would react together.   
4. Had either dog been somewhat aggressive or reactive, my face was right at dog level.  
5. There is a first time for every incident and startling another dog (or his handle) can create an incident that will take many moons to recover from.
6. What if it had been a child holding their dog who was charged upon?
7. Flexi-leads hurt like #%!! when they extend and retract against your skin.  They can actually create a skin burn.
8. If he had made me break my camera --  I can't say out loud what I would have done.

Bottom line folks -- control your dogs and teach them to say hi with manners and courtesy.   A You wouldn't like it if I came charging up on your personal space in the park and started smelling your @$$ or licking your face -- dogs don't like it either.  

Take an extra 2 minutes and ask a handler before you approach their dog (with or without another dog) and then control that dog to dog greeting with calmness and without excitability.   

And PLEASE LOSE flexi-leads.  Get yourself a good quality leather leash.

Dana Brigman
The K9 Coach
Dog Training - Matthews, NC
980-339-8064
www.thek9-coach.com
info@thek9-coach.com

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Ask us about a photo shoot with your dog!  

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Games: Red Light / Green Light

Games can be fun for your kids to play with the dog.   But they can also be great educational life skills for you dog.   Red Light / Green Light is one that will help teach your dog a bit of impulse control by allowing him to get all excited and playful and then stop instantly when told. 

It's easy and it's fun for everyone to play.  

Your dog will need to know the basic skills Sit, Down, and Come before you play the game.  They should also be familiar with Okay! as a release cue.   So if necessary, teach those skills first.   Remember:  all learning is good for your dog so take the time necessary to build the foundation.

Play in large enclosed (fenced) area that is safe from hazzards that your kids or dogs might fall  over or get the dog's leash caught on.  The leash will be used initially to help teach your dog the game.

Engage your dog in a fun game of chase or with a toy tug.

Once the dog is engaged and excited, stop suddenly and issue a command like "Sit"

• If they sit, quickly say Okay! start playing again with the toy or the game of chase
• If they don't sit on command, use your leash to prevent the escape and them help them sit

 Play for several intervals and take a break.

Over the course of the next few days play the game and increase the time the dog has to hold his command before you release and play again.

Play with enthusiasm, but become calm and still when you ask the dog to sit for the first few days.   Then up the ante by getting excited or showing the toy again before you release him to play with you.

Dogs love fun and challenges!  You do too -- right?  Get out and play with the dog.

Once he knows the game, you can apply this quick issue of a command in moments when your dog may be getting to excited in the house, when the kids friends come over, or something unusual distracts him.  






Dana Brigman
The K9 Coach
Dog Training - Matthews, NC
980-339-8064
www.thek9-coach.com
info@thek9-coach.com

Follow us On

Facebook,  Youtube, Twitter, Pinterest , Instagram  & Google+

The K9 Coach is a Professional Certified Dog Trainer Serving Charlotte, NC, Matthews, NC and surrounding areas.


Ask us about a photo shoot with your dog !   Weenie Dog Photography   All K9 Coach clients are eligible for a discount! 

My mission is a better life for dogs as members of a forever family.

My goal is create training solutions for the home owner, to rehabilitate dogs from shelters and rescues, and to prevent dogs from dying alone as strays or owner surrenders in shelters due to unnecessary aggression or behavioral issues.

Begin all training with a consultation with a professional trainer to be sure you're solving the right problem. Misdiagnosis can make the matters worse. Be sure that there are no medical issues at play and that your dog is not in pain, as pain can be a contributor to a new display of aggression. If you have any fear or uncertainty -- do not attempt the techniques without professional supervision.

Help! My Dog Is Jumping The Fence

My first question to you is -- why is the dog jumping the fence?   What's on the other side of the fence that is so much more exciting than you?   Is he left outside unsupervised? 

Typical reasons dogs jump the fence is because of raging hormones, boredom, and lack of supervision.     At the most basic of solutions -- get your dog spayed/neutered, go outside and play or train them to burn of physical energy, and don't leave them unsupervised.

You can create perimeter boundaries by working on a very reliable recall, and working with your dog on leash for several weeks to teach them that every time they approach the fence, they will be called to Come to you for a positive reward.    Remember in Come! (especially if something is exciting on the other side of the fence) you have to be the best thing ever for your dog to want to engage with you and to show-up when you call them.   Have something yummy as a reward for coming when called for the next few weeks.

If they do escape, don't punish them when you go get them, otherwise they will be even more reluctant to come to you the next time.  

Need help teaching a reliable off-leash recall?   Call us for an appointment or check out one of our training classes.   

Fences should not be considered a fail-safe protection for your dog. They can give you peace of mind to let them go outside and play and do their business.   But it's my opinion, humble as it may be, that dogs should not be left outside in a fenced area when the owner is not home and not available for frequent supervision.   

My own little weenie dog is small enough to fit through the rails of my mother's fence so we had to take extra precautions when visiting.   And as you can see in the picture above -- my foster dog even tried to squeeze through.   Be sure when you visit friends and family you check the status of their fence too!

Fence safety- check the perimeter often for holes that may have developed in the wire mesh, spaces/gaps that small dogs can crawl under, securely latching gates, and for objects or terrain in your yard that gives your dog a place tall enough to allow him to jump over.   Also, be sure to check your fence after big storms to ensure that limbs have not fallen and damaged the fencing allowing for an escape route.  

Don't even get me started about invisible fencing ... that's a topic for another day. 

The K9 Coach

Dana Brigman, CDT, IACP, APDT

980-339-8064
Email:  info@thek9-coach.com

Website:  www.thek9-coach.com

Facebook:  www.facebook.com/thek9coachcharlotte
Pinterest:  www.pinterest.com/thek9coach
Youtube:  www.youtube.com/thek9coachcharlotte

The K9 Coach is a Professional Certified Dog Trainer Serving Charlotte, NC, Matthews, NC and surrounding areas.

Ask us about a photo shoot with your dog !   Weenie Dog Photography   
All K9 Coach clients are eligible for a discount! 

 

My mission is a better life for dogs as members of a forever family.

My goal is create training solutions for the home owner, to rehabilitate dogs from shelters and rescues, and to prevent dogs from dying alone as strays or owner surrenders in shelters due to unnecessary aggression or behavioral issues.

Begin all training with a consultation with a professional trainer to be sure you're solving the right problem. Misdiagnosis can make the matters worse. Be sure that there are no medical issues at play and that your dog is not in pain, as pain can be a contributor to a new display of aggression. If you have any fear or uncertainty -- do not attempt the techniques without professional supervision.

Training Tools: Choosing Collars and Harnesses

Like any sport, hobby, craft, or geometric design -- having the right tools makes a huge difference in your results.  Equally important is your technique.   The right tools paired with the right technique make the right solution.

Tools are widely debated.   There are extremists on both sides who think that nothing should be used but a harness and treats while others believe in only ecollar and no treats.   What's the right answer -- it depends.

It depends on many factors.  Age of the dog, temperament of the dog, temperament of the handler, physical attributes of the dog and the handler, and your goals. ONLY YOU can make the decision about what tools you will consider for your dog and your family -- even when a trainer recommends something, you should do your homework and get the facts.

At The K9 Coach, we recommend you begin with the least corrective level possible.  Progress to a different tool, if and only if, you are not making significant progress with proper training, essential consistency and daily practice.  It's up to you as much as it is the dog to respond efffectively to training.  Don't blame your dog for your lack of effort & do not short cut your training methods and time frame. 

Every training tool requires proper fitting and appropriate instruction on usage to prevent injury and to achieve the best results possible.   Many take some time to acclimate the dog to the tool on their body or face and when and how it will be used.   We must be fair and consistent.  And we must provide the dog the ability to be successful and earn reward & praise for a job well done.  

You should always train the dog what to do and how to do it before you begin any sort of correction method.   There must be consistency and clear, effective communication between owner and handler.  It simply cannot just be a punitive device.

All tools should be considered a teaching aid with the goal not requiring that tool in the future and having a reliable dog whether he has on a training tool or not. Off-leash should be your ultimate goal.   Teach your dog what TO do as well as what NOT to do.  Balance your training equation. 
 

Training Tool	Pros	Cons
Plastic Clip / Nylon Collar	·         Inexpensive ·         Available everywhere	·         They break easily under significant pulling & frequent usage ·         Ill-fitted collars can easily be slipped out of ·         Pulling against collar puts all pressure on the throat vs evenly distributing around neck
Leather Buckle Collar	·         Metal Buckle offers resistance to breakage against usage and pulling pressure	·         Ill-fitted collars can easily be slipped out of ·         Pulling against collar puts all pressure on the throat vs evenly distributing around neck
Martingale	·         Properly sized makes slipping out of collar less much less likely ·         Pulling against collar evenly distributes pressure around neck with wider fabric for correction without discomfort ·         Great patterns! ·         Size properly in both width of fabric and neck size	·         If not sized properly – the 2nd loop of the martingale offering the correction can be too big (too long) – requiring more owner leash movement to engage tension on the collar.
Martingale Lead (Collar Leash in one) British Lead	·          convenient  one size fits all ·          gives a gentle correction evenly distributed around dog's neck ·         correction engages quickly regardless of size of dog	·
Head Harness (ie Halti®	·         Provides no stress on the neck & throat – great for dogs with back or spinal problems. ·         Helps prevent dogs from pulling on the leash when walking	·         Many dog hate the fabric across their snout and will fight to remove it – requires acclimation before usage ·         Corrections may not be very effective for a dog with stubborn, hard, or dominant personality traits, or when training other obedience skills. ·         May not fully restrain a reactive, powerful dog. ·         Despite popular belief that if you control the head you control the dog –  most owners cannot react as quickly as a dog intent on biting ·         Sudden jerk on the leash on a relaxed dog could cause neck injury
Harness (ie Easy Walk®)	·         Provides no stress on the neck & throat – great for dogs with breathing difficulties or those at risk of collapsed trachea ·         Some harnesses offer a martingale-like method of correction around the body or chest.	·         Can give some dogs more pulling power ·         Correction may not be effective for a dog with stubborn, hard, or dominant personality traits.
Slip Chain (aka Choke Chain) The K9 Coach Does NOT recommend a slip chain	·         Offers a more effective correction than Martingale.	·         Most pet owners will never master the technique used for effective placement and correction ·         Must purchase size big enough to go over head, which is then too big for the neck  If not sized properly – chain will be too long – requiring more owner leash movement to engage tension on the collar to .achieve an effective correction ·         Pulls hair on long-haired dogs
Nylon Slip	·         May be as effective as the Chain Slip on the right dog. ·         Has less stigma than other metal training tools.	·         Most pet owners will never master the technique used for effective placement and correction ·         Must purchase size big enough to go over head, which is then too big for the neck achieve an effective correction ·         Not as effective on powerful breeds or highly reactive / aggressive dogs.
No Pain / No Pull (Wire Cable) The K9 Coach Will Never recommend this	·	·         It’s a twisted wire cable, directly against your dogs throat.
Prong (aka Pinch)	Communication tool for dogs -- pressure control create change in behaviors like pulling, jumping, etc. Capable of providing a very effective correction to a hard, stubborn or dominant dog. Can give immediate control to handler with little to no correction   Intended to mimic the mouth of the mother as a correction Helpful to owners who’s dog physically overpowers them.  Does not cause pain or piercing	Often used on bully breeds who may not need them – as a statement of image by their owner They have a ugly stigma by all positive trainers Many people receive no training & do not use them properly or overcorrect May not be appropriate on a dog with neck trauma, spinal or back injuries, or any puppy under 4 months old.  Over correcting may create fear of or intimidation by the handler ·
Electronic	Low Level Stimulation does not shock or cause pain. Highly effective for off-leash work and reliable recall Helps to inhibit bad behaviors Reinforces obedience skills Helpful to owners who have physical limitations Can be used effectively for deaf dogs or hearing imparied dogs to signal specific commands. Bark Collars can be effective to eliminate nuisance barking	·         They have a ugly stigma by all positive trainers ·         Many people receive no training & do not use them properly or overcorrect ·         Used by some trainers on every dog they train regardless of temperament & goals. ·         Improper use may create fear or stress in the dog
Citronella Bark Collars	·         Effective to deter barking ·         Many consider the spray aversive	Some dogs become smarter than the collar and find a way to work around the spritz Requires new batteries often There is no teaching from the handler associated with the spray – in other words we’re not telling them what to do instead Overuse may deter a dog from barking at all  May be problematic for olfactory senses / scent lingers for a very long time.

Take all collars off for play time, while crated or unsupervised for safety.

The K9 Coach

Dana Brigman, CDT, IACP, APDT

980-339-8064
Email:  info@thek9-coach.com

Website:  www.thek9-coach.com

Facebook:  www.facebook.com/thek9coachcharlotte
Pinterest:  www.pinterest.com/thek9coach
Youtube:  www.youtube.com/thek9coachcharlotte

The K9 Coach is a Professional Certified Dog Trainer Serving Charlotte, NC, Matthews, NC and surrounding areas.

 

My mission is a better life for dogs as members of a forever family.

My goal is create training solutions for the home owner, to rehabilitate dogs from shelters and rescues, and to prevent dogs from dying alone as strays or owner surrenders in shelters due to unnecessary aggression or behavioral issues.

Begin all training with a consultation with a professional trainer to be sure you're solving the right problem. Misdiagnosis can make the matters worse. Be sure that there are no medical issues at play and that your dog is not in pain, as pain can be a contributor to a new display of aggression. If you have any fear or uncertainty -- do not attempt the techniques without professional supervision.